damage crank pulley
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damage crank pulley
i'm not sure if this crank pulley is still good to use. if it's not, can i bring it to a shop and have it balance or just get a use/new one? this is for a h22a1. can any other pulleys fit?
what do you guys think about these on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jet-C...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-01...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-01...Q5fAccessories
what do you guys think about these on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jet-C...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-01...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-01...Q5fAccessories
Last edited by topp_dawg_g; 04-15-2009 at 09:57 AM.
#2
Re: damage crank pulley
I would go with the Dorman if you arent set to get an OEM. I have a Dorman crank pulley, and while it is not quite as nice as the OEM, it is solid. You HAVE to have a harmonic balancer on whatever pulley you decide to get. It is the strip of rubber between the inner portion and the outer, and without it your bearings will be worn quickly. Dorman has it, OEM has it, but those underdrive lightweight pulleys do not.
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Re: damage crank pulley
This pulley is well past done. A used pulley is cheap enough and easy enough to find on ht that it's not worth your crank and bearings.
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Re: damage crank pulley
i got an issue here. the mains on the block and caps have some wear on it. some are okay and some are pretty deep. i don't think i can just put new bearings in. how will a shop fix this? any suggestions on what i should do?:
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Re: damage crank pulley
it is in that helms... good stuff tho I'm about to get to this part of my rebuild. I'm definitely expecting to see something similar, so let me know what you end up doing...
How do the inside of your cylinders look BTW? i duno if you saw my post but at least one of my cylinders is gonna need some honing, its got scratches all the way of the sides
How do the inside of your cylinders look BTW? i duno if you saw my post but at least one of my cylinders is gonna need some honing, its got scratches all the way of the sides
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Re: damage crank pulley
The studs will go into the block hand tight only. For the main studs,
follow the manufacturers torque sequence and tighten the nut in three
equal steps to 85 ft. lbs. if using 30 wt. oil as thread lubricant. Note
that if the block has been align honed using these fasteners it is
recommended to use the same torque spec and lubricant that was used when
it was honed.
For the head studs they will also thread into the block hand tight
only. Follow the manufacturers torque sequence and tighten the nuts in
three equal steps to 120 ft. lbs. if using 30 wt. oil as thread
lubricant. Because the head gasket can compress after the engine has
ran, it is recommended to re-check the torque after an initial heat
cycle.
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Re: damage crank pulley
i'm planning to reuse my old piston rings which are less than 1000 miles. do i still need to repeat the break in process? cometic headgaskets don't required retorqing head studs but arp studs do. what should i do?
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Re: damage crank pulley
i sent my block out to laskey and they said that it's going to cost around $600-$700 plus new main caps because they well to make new tangs. the crank is going to move up .015-.020 so i will have to get a thicker headgasket and file the dowel pins on the oil pump main seal. they said if i provide a new block, they can sleeve it for $900.
i was wondering if there's shop out there that can weld some material on the damage then align hone it. what do you guys think is my best option now?
i was wondering if there's shop out there that can weld some material on the damage then align hone it. what do you guys think is my best option now?
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Re: damage crank pulley
I agree. The only way to save that block would be to do what I did and have the mains bored out for a larger crank but thats ALOT of work and I know from experience. Moving the crank up will throw everything out of whack... oil pump, rear main seal, clutch/flywheel wont be aligned properly with the tranny etc.. your best bet is to start from scratch.
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