blaak-crx

So I am flushing out my regualr coolant fluid to deionized water and water wetter. However, some people say to put the whole bottle in? I have a Crx. The directions doesn't really say to put the whole thing in. Please clearify this.


Modified by blaak-crx at 8:21 PM 5/22/2008

1999all_motoR_teg

I put the whole bottle in with water. You can do it either way. If anything just follow the instructions on the bottle.

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaak-crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I am flushing out my regualr coolant fluid to deionized water and water wetter. However, some people say to put the whole bottle in? I have a Crx. The directions doesn't really say to but the whole thing in. Please clearify this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I know I'm going to be dumping the fluid within a month anyway, I'll sometimes go cheap and do half of a bottle. Most people use the whole bottle.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

The whole bottle man!!!

mc-integra111

A Honda cooling system is not large enough to need the whole bottle. Read the directions on the bottle very closely (or get them from RedLine's website). 1 bottle (12 oz) will treat 12-16 quarts (~1 oz per quart). My cooling system (stock radiator) is almost 2 gal (7-8 quarts).

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

May be we should have been more specific...
I dont have a stock radiator, mine is for racing and almost three times as big as stock.
For me......... the whole bottle!

blaak-crx

Using my stock Crx rad. for now. I hope this will lower the temperature because it gets pretty high when pushing the car hard on the race track.

jakeiscool

1 ounce of water wetter to every quart of water, its on the [freak]ing bottle.

kb58

Why would the makers of WaterWetter recommend not putting in enough? If anything they probably recommend putting in a bit too much to cover their butts. What's wrong with following the effing instructions?

blaak-crx

I know how to a read f-cking instructions. I have been talking to people at the race track and they gave me different opinions. I just wanted more suggesting from down south! That's all. Man, some people are harsh here.

kb58

Sorry for being harsh, but I'd be very surprised if more is better - and the manufacturer said otherwise. You know how it is, they want you to use it all up as fast as possible, which means they want you to put in a lot. If they say just use a little, there probably a good reason, like it gums up or drops out of suspension if too much is used. I had a few people tell me that the stuff "sucks", but since they were in the minority I didnt' believe them. I think they were using it wrong somehow, too much, too high an altitude, something.

bsclywilly

Some web search got me this information about water wetter. This article explains that the function of WW is not to lower the total coolant temperature on it's own but to help reduce local hot spots in the cylinder head by reducing the surface tension of water (in localized hotspots, boiling can occur, WW reduces the layer of water vapor near the site to allow the coolant to effectively transfer heat away). Because WW does not transfer more heat than water itself, more WW is not necessarily better...infact it's not better.

Another useful .pdf link that is referenced in the above article is Redline's explanation.

blaak-crx

Thanks for the links. I will follow the instructions.

.Hatches.

hey so you aren't going to be running coolant? only deionized water and WW?

kb58

Oooo, no, no, no, do not use deionized water. I used that stuff once and learned a very expensive lesson. Apparently the ion that it's missing is wanted in a big way. Over about a year, it was as if someone had poured acid into my cylinder head's cooling jacket. That water ate right through the aluminum and into an exhaust port.

Since than, some people have said it could not have been the deionized water, but I'm unwilling to repeat that experiment!

TeamNextGenChris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kb58 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oooo, no, no, no, do not use deionized water. I used that stuff once and learned a very expensive lesson. Apparently the ion that it's missing is wanted in a big way. Over about a year, it was as if someone had poured acid into my cylinder head's cooling jacket. That water ate right through the aluminum and into an exhaust port.

Since than, some people have said it could not have been the deionized water, but I'm unwilling to repeat that experiment!</TD></TR></TABLE>
i believe demineralized water is what you want?or is that essentially the same thing?that's what i've put in my bike for five years now with water wetter with no problems with corrosion.it's also what i use in cars,but i'm using antifreeze too,so i'm sure there's additional anti-corrosive properties there.
Chris

dfoxengr

you should run a min. of 10% ethylene glycol to prevent corrosion, even if you see no cold temps.

TeamNextGenChris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should run a min. of 10% ethylene glycol to prevent corrosion, even if you see no cold temps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
but some sanctioning bodies don't allow antifreeze to be run on track.

FWIW on the original topic.i've always run water wetter in the prescribed dosage as on the bottle and it seems to make a noticeable difference.
Chris

jakeiscool

yeah not deionized water, just distilled is what i run.

wed3k

i think the only time you can run too much mixture of coolant is in the machining equipment that i use. ot may lubricate too much and won allow the bits to machine as efficiently.

but thats way off topic, lol.