Knestis

Putting together the adjustable rear bar for the Golf and I'd like to use metric rod ends on the links. Anyone have a good source, preferably with online ordering? I might also need tapered spacers to accommodate angular motion, if anyone has a link.

Thanks!

K

Formula Racing

mcmaster has them as does rodendsupply
Ithink its rodendsupply.com

EdoMoto

Metric ones are expencive. Expect to pay about 40-50 bucks each one.

Edo

117

HRP sells Fluro rod ends.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index....egory

Fairly pricey, but they appear to be high quality.

What I usually do is try to find a close imperical size and machine some adapters. For my sway bar rod ends that used 12mm bolts, I'm using 3/8" alloy rod ends with aluminum adapters.

It also seems difficult to find LH thread metric rod ends. On the end links I made, I used one RH and one LH rod end so I could dial out the preload without disassembling the end link. Another reason to use imperical rod ends with adapters.

577HondaPrelude

I think Aura bearing makes metic rod ends.

117

Yes, they do. Hard to find them online. Most places I've dealt with had to special order them.

chjkingme

Try poking around the fsae forums. I think there's quite a bit about them there.

KENLUDE97

iTrader: (1)

http://www.mcmastercarr.com

I just ordered a few from them, and i had them the NEST day

bluegsr

K, I don't know how much length/adjustability you need OR the bolt size....but you might give Dave Wheeler a call to see if the ones he's putting together for Spec Miatas will work for you.

They're VERY nice - Aurora ends, right- and left-hand with a turnbuckle in the middle so you don't have to disassemble them.

http://www.advanced-autosports.com/prod02.htm

The spacers aren't tapered, though - don't know if that's a deal-breaker or not.

Jarrod

1stgenboy

Here you go. Call if questions.

Bob 800-688-6946 ext 1225

http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=3066
http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=3067
http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=3068

Greg Amy

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...you might give Dave Wheeler a call to see if the ones he's putting together for Spec Miatas will work for you....</TD></TR></TABLE>

If those are the same ones that Mazda Motorsports sells, they're "standard" hardware.

Kirk, I build most of my custom stuff (including my rear swaybar) using "standard" hardware. It's more readily available and costs less. Metric is kinda irrelevant, as I carry a full set of metric and standard tools anyway... - GA

Knestis

Thanks everyone for the ideas. The primary reason we thought about using metric links was to facilitate using the rear strut bottom bolt as a mounting point. Looks like the cost of metric bits means that doesn't make a lot of sense.

Ordered the rear bar and arms from Speedway Eng. yesterday - 1.25OD, .205" wall tubular. We have several possible solutions for mounting so there's some fiddling to do...

K

Greg Amy

iTrader: (1)

Don't be a little girl: get the solid bar.

http://www.kakashiracing.com/swaybar.html

Knestis

I've got to be conservative, 'cause I got a bunch of ******* renting the car from me for enduros.

K

Greg Amy

iTrader: (1)

Ooowwser, that hurt my feelings...

Knestis

Got to be able to TAKE it too, dude. I'm worried that I'll find Cameron moping around the shop tomorrow morning, after your threats to deflower his firstborn.

K

Crack Monkey

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greg Amy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't be a little girl: get the solid bar.

http://www.kakashiracing.com/swaybar.html</TD></TR></TABLE>

Holy Moly! That bar is huge.

How did you go about designing it? And picking the correct size, etc? (same question to Kirk, assuming he's doing something similar)

Knestis

LOL - I completely arbitrarily ordered the biggest tubular bar they offered, in the width that gave me several mounting options. I honestly just shuddered at the thought of how much the solid ones weigh, as I'm trying to lose 100# over last year's actual on-track weight.

K

.RJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Holy Moly! That bar is huge. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've got one of them too, except it aint solid!

CRX Lee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'm worried that I'll find Cameron moping around the shop tomorrow morning, after your threats to deflower his firstborn. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually Kirk, didn't you already do that? Isn't this one #2?

Waiting for late June to roll around...

Knestis

New shell = virgin. It's like being born again, kind of.

K

Greg Amy

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you go about designing it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Holding it up in space underneath the car and filling in the resultant space with tubular metal and MIG welding wire. Really.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...And picking the correct size, etc?</TD></TR></TABLE>
This car SERIOUSLY needs increased rear roll stiffness. This Speedway Engineering 1.25" torsion bar comes in several wall thicknesses, from solid all the way down to .095" wall. I treat the rear swaybar just like I do suspension springs: I keep a couple of different ones in the trailer and can quickly swap them out to tune the handling. So far the only thing I've run is the solid one...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...shuddered at the thought of how much the solid ones weigh, as I'm trying to lose 100#...</TD></TR></TABLE>
And I was about 30 pounds light; can you think of any better place to put that weight...?

GregA, looking forward to the deflowering...

descartesfool

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K, I don't know how much length/adjustability you need OR the bolt size....but you might give Dave Wheeler a call to see if the ones he's putting together for Spec Miatas will work for you.

They're VERY nice - Aurora ends, right- and left-hand with a turnbuckle in the middle so you don't have to disassemble them.

http://www.advanced-autosports.com/prod02.htm

The spacers aren't tapered, though - don't know if that's a deal-breaker or not.

Jarrod</TD></TR></TABLE>

So how can they sell 4 links for $125?

That is 8 Aurora metric rod ends
plus 8 jamb nuts plus 4 threaded links plus 16 spacers/washers and all for $125.

Seems that they would have to be seling those rod ends for not much more than $10 ea. Doesn't seem to match any metric rod end prices I have seen. Any idea what gives?

Knestis

I'm wondering how many Smirnoff Ices we need to pour into Pablo II before Greg has his way with him. Actually, we don't know the line-up yet. Greg might not be first up, so...

K

Greg Amy

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...before Greg has his way with him.</TD></TR></TABLE>
"HIM"?!?!? Whoa, whoa, wait a sec, here: you told me it was Cameron's DAUGHTER...!!!