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This is my 3rd EF hatch in the last 21 years, My 1st car was an 89 dx hatch also. Picked up this 89dx hatch about 3 months ago. Haven't really done anything with it since it needs a good amount of work for what I want to do with it. Parts it came with:
Built b20
B20z2 11:1
YCP pistons bored 20 over
ARP rod bolts
Rods have been resized
LS head
Crower 403 cams
Crower Duel valve springs
Crower titanium retainers
LS Trans
Exedy Clutch
Lighten flywheel
Hasport mounts
Suspension
GroundControl coilovers (250lb springs , way too soft)
Koni Yellows (Hopefully not blown)
Nuspeed shock tower brace
Skunk2 adjustable links
Brakes
DA front and rear brakes
Hawk Brake pads ??? Seem to bite strong though for the spirited drive I did to feel the car out
Misc
Enkei rpf1 15”
Dunlop Direzza zII 205/50/15
MoMo steering wheel
Quick release hub
Corbeau driver seat
Del Sol pass seat
GForce 5 point harness
Clear corner lense
Amber side markers
EK side skirt
Custom roll cage with proper crush boxes
The plus side to this car for me was that it was already b swapped and has a half cage (not sure if it's certified, etc. still learning). Little bit of background. I currently own an integra gsr sedan that I autocross and do about 1-2 track days. The long term plans once the season is over is take what I can from the integra and put it in the hatch
Stage 1 plans,
replace every bushing, ball joint, install my old progress coilovers, asr rear sway bay, wheel bearings. Currently the steering rack is knocking when turning. I bought the steering rack end bushing as well as the normal steering rack bushings. Hopefully this solves it.
Parts that I purchased so far:
Wheel bearings front and rear
ARP extended studs for the front
Hardrace rear trailing arm bushings
Godspeed spherical rear lower controls (I know - we will see). Trailing arm side and subframe side are spherical using koyo bearings. The shock bushing is either a poly or rubber bushing
Poly bushings for toe \ compensator arm
Rear camber kit
Poly front lower control arm bushings
Maxpeeding traction bar (should be legal since it replicates the stock cross member and radius rods)
Started with the rear trailing arms this past weekend. I had a spare set of RTA's from a 94-01 Integra. Stripped them down, cleaned them. Slightly clocked and pressed in the new RTA bushings, then painted them.
Thanks guys. Spent about an hour on it yesterday since the weather had cooled off a bit. Finished taking out the passenger rear suspension. Pressed in new bushings in the toe\compensator arm. Slow progress but progress.
Looks great! Quick question, for the DA brakes that were already on the car, those can be installed by unbolting the 4 T50 bolts and installed on the stock hatch trailing arms?
Looks great! Quick question, for the DA brakes that were already on the car, those can be installed by unbolting the 4 T50 bolts and installed on the stock hatch trailing arms?
Or were the entire DA trailing arms installed?
I did a quick test fit of the DA rear brakes on my DC trailing arms. They seemed to fit just fine. Research shows the part that bolts up using the 4 T50 bolts is wider on the DA and the trailing arm bushings is bigger on DA rear trailing arms. The trailing arms that came with my car dont seem to be DA rear trailing arms. The bushing measures to about 80mm on both sets that I have. Also, \when looking up part numbers, the DA rear brake calipers are different but they take the same pads and rotors as DC.
Gotcha, so it would be better for me to grab DA or DC rear hubs (unbolting the 4 T50 bolts) OR grab the entire DC rear trailing arms to fit onto my ED3 sedan I’m thinking. Thanks for your response above.
Gotcha, so it would be better for me to grab DA or DC rear hubs (unbolting the 4 T50 bolts) OR grab the entire DC rear trailing arms to fit onto my ED3 sedan I’m thinking. Thanks for your response above.
I would Use dc/eg rear hubs or just get the entire rear trailing arms if you can. I think I was watching a speed academy video and he state the rear hubs from the da is what's wider.
Gotcha, so it would be better for me to grab DA or DC rear hubs (unbolting the 4 T50 bolts) OR grab the entire DC rear trailing arms to fit onto my ED3 sedan I’m thinking. Thanks for your response above.
It’s just a stock LX sedan, trying to jog my memory with this stuff again. Haven’t touched a honda since 2008 lol.
I knew the DA track is slightly wider (about a inch or so overall) Just was curious about what specifically you used to accept he DA brakes on your hatch.
There are a few DC Integras at my local junkyard and one DA. Was gonna grab just the Hubs/spindles/whatever you wanna call them and then just bolt those onto my stock RTA. Was gonna grab the prop valve out of the DA and if I’m not lazy grab the booster and BMC from the DA as well. Brake lines I think either the DA or DC lines will work but ultimately want to use stainless lines.
Realistically I will most likely end up just grabbing the whole DC RTA with all the brakes attached and just bolt those up using the sedan toe arms since I think they might be longer than the DC ones so that I can get a proper alignment.
Gotcha. I'm learning this stuff too. Yeah don't get da rta's. Their rta bushing is bigger than the rest and hard to get. Just get a complete dc setup if you can. I had 2 ef's before this one back in 01 and 05 but never built them. I'm learning the differences between them and eg/dc. But just for clarity I'm bolting da rear brakes up to dc rear trailing arms with dc rear spindle.
I planned on leaving it as is. I haven't even looked yet to see what prop valve or master is in it. The previous owner or the one before him did the disk brake conversion. I drove it once before tearing it apart and they felt fine braking aggressively. But I will check. I haven't really spent much time in the engine bay yet.
the only true 100% correct rear disc conversion for 88-91 civic/crx is the rear disc from a 90-91 crx si
DA will "work" but isnt right
DC rear disc is as close as you can get to 90-91 crx si. it still isnt right but it closer to being proper than DA
just get the complete DC RTA with brake lines and ebrake cables. use the civic/crx upper arm, toe arms, lca and you will be fine
the only true 100% correct rear disc conversion for 88-91 civic/crx is the rear disc from a 90-91 crx si
DA will "work" but isnt right
DC rear disc is as close as you can get to 90-91 crx si. it still isnt right but it closer to being proper than DA
just get the complete DC RTA with brake lines and ebrake cables. use the civic/crx upper arm, toe arms, lca and you will be fine
Thanks for the clarification. I misquoted earlier. It was actually Hasports youtube video I watched to get a better understanding of this.
Things have been moving slowly but slight progress. Fully disassembled the front suspension, pressed out bearings, bushings and ball joints. Painted front suspension arms.
Made a little bit of progress. Front Lower control arms are done. The car came with skunk2 front upper control arms. Bushings look good, replaced the ball joints.
08-08-2022, 06:22 AM
EF Hatch Autocross \ Track Build
