TeamJDM

Ok i'm not a painter by trade. However i've always had access to my uncles auto body shop, but had no choice to use his convential Sharpe gun. It does the job i guess, i hate it but he loves it.

Heres my problem.. I noticed after i've painted a car i have a decent amount of orange peel(which is cool for a OEM stock finish). And it makes the paint job look dull when you look at it in certain angles.. I hate that. I've seen some of you guys show off your work on here and the clear is SUPER show car flat and thats before its even wet sanded and buffed.. How can i achieve a finish like this..
Mind you NO paint booth, and i really think i might get him a used Sata NR2000 and just leave it in the shop.. Please help

IP RACING

practice practice practice. proper air pressure and a booth. you will always get dirt in clear if you have no booth. maybe not bad but you will never get it without some debris

msinsky14

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IP RACING &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">practice practice practice. proper air pressure and a booth. you will always get dirt in clear if you have no booth. maybe not bad but you will never get it without some debris</TD></TR></TABLE>

and air pressure is important along with adjustment of the gun. when i first used my devilbiss, i set the pressure to low and the fluid volume too high, and it sprayed shiny, but mad orange peel.

keep in mind, if u like to paint fast, turn the pressure up and the fluid volume up until it sprays good. i know a guy who has an amazing body shop and uses a 200 dollar devilbiss and sprays his jobs smooth as glass. just gotta get ahold of adjusting and knowing your spray gun.

true dat, i thought i cleaned my garage out enough and layed plastic, put up fans, wet the floor, and i still got debris on my roof, but not anywhere else on my car, the fans didnt pull out dirst high up in the air, if i were u i'd try to rent a paint booth if possible

TeamJDM

thanx guys but dust isn't my concern, as i will be wet sanding then polishing.. I think my problem might be experience..also msinsky14 also brought something important to my attention.. I notice my uncle shoots with low pressure and very slow in comparison to me. I shoot faster with higher pressure. For some reason that works better for me. It seems as it lays down flater. However i tend to waste way more clear then him, and although i pay for the clear he tells me i'm wasting clear and it shouldn't take 3.5 quarts of clear to lay down 3 coats. With him it take 2 quarts for him to lay down 3 coats.. Oh well... i will be painting pretty soon and i plan on gettin a used Sata NR2000(non digital) this weeked for $150obo.. Ohhh another thing also.. as for correct air pressure.. dude his air pressure gauge is broken and HAS been broken for years and he never replaced it.. So when i shoot paint i go by the sound of the air pressure.. I no that sounds retarded but, thats how i learned how to paint lolz.. Seriously i can hear the sound of the air and i'm able to get a ruff idea of what i should be shootin with..

MORE TIPS PLEASE.. I &lt;3 this site.. and this forum..

huertascoupe

try using spray outs in different gun settings until you fine tune the gun.
good luck

msinsky14

when i used the devilbiss, i noticed that to lay down two coats, it took me 1.5 quarts on my crx spraying at 40psi. i wouldnt care if ur wasting clear as long as the end result is to your expectations.

Paul-R

air pressure is coo as long as it shoots out nice and smooth then your good but this is what i do i paint the car then blast it with gloss right after dont even let it dry the after 1 day of drying i color sand the orange peal surface then buff it out to shiny finish thats what i did i have pics but not on this computer i will post some up to show you .

TeamJDM

what do you mean by "blast it with gloss"

snowseeker

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by msinsky14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i used the devilbiss, i noticed that to lay down two coats, it took me 1.5 quarts on my crx spraying at 40psi. i wouldnt care if ur wasting clear as long as the end result is to your expectations.</TD></TR></TABLE>


40 psi flowing? I have a sata digi and I just can't seem to tune it in just right with the quick flow adjustment, air pressure adjustment, and paint flow adjustment. Acording to the manual it says the quick adjustment is for changing flow for hard to get areas and for specling.

Also I can have the gun set at 20 psi flowing, but it seems I can change the air cfm output but still have it at 20 psi flowing with the quick change adjustment.


For the OP, I have always had good luck putting on a thin coat and just as it flashs over laying down a heavy coat and leave it for a nice flat finish.

powerflow

Get some cheap, crappy Saturn door skins to practice with, hang vertical, how it would be on a car. Practice is the key. Play around with different gun adjustments and stroke/gun travel styles. Some painters move quick w/ the gun closer, some slower further away for example. Always start with a flat sanded surface not just scuffed up, so you know what your surface peal tends to look like once the clear flows out. A good SATA or Iwata is great tool to start with.

integrapunk67

What kind of Clear are you using and how are you mixing it?

What Pressure are you spraying at?

Distance to panel?

What is the Temperature you're spraying at?

TeamJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrapunk67 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of Clear are you using and how are you mixing it? Anythng from Nason, Omni, Matrix (Hi-solids), PPG or even DuPont ChromaClear).
What Pressure are you spraying at? Due to no pressure gauge, i usually go by the sound of the air pressure.

Distance to panel? 6-8 inches

What is the Temperature you're spraying at? Room temperature depending on the weather (no paint booth) but i use the correct reducer according to shop temp</TD></TR></TABLE>

SneezinCD5

I use PPG DCU line clear and I prefer to use my Devilbiss plus gun over my Sata 3000RP. I notice that I use alot more materials with the Sata and it takes more materials to lay it down flat. Either way, they both lay down the clear with very little orange peel.

You said something about you getting a Sata 2000 for 150.00. IF it is in good condition, I would get it. Sata is one of the best guns for base/metallics

downsincedayone

practice...lay down madd material and wetsand it to 2500 nd buff...perfect finish

TeamJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downsincedayone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">practice...lay down madd material and wetsand it to 2500 nd buff...perfect finish</TD></TR></TABLE>

jus remember the more the you lay down the more chances you have of running.. And thats another thing i have a FEAR against running.. Does anyone else suffer from this fair?

msinsky14

just get some cheap black paint and some clear and practice on some random stuff with different gun settings, speeds, and distances, then take note of what layed down the fastest.

remember too much fluid and too little pressure=orange peel
and too little fluid and too much pressure=orange peel

finding that exact center takes practice
good luck to ya

bracket 4 life

here is what i do in a situation where you want a flat clear finish. paint the car get it to wear your basecoat is perfect. clear the car with two coats of clear the normal way you would clear it. the texture you see is not just from the clear it is also from the base and sealer. So sand the clear down with 600 until the texture goes away but dont burn through to the basecoat cuase then you will have to re apply base in that area. unmask the job, clean everything and remask. Then reclear the job the exact same way and it will be flat and beautiful and much less buffing.

TeamJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bracket 4 life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is what i do in a situation where you want a flat clear finish. paint the car get it to wear your basecoat is perfect. clear the car with two coats of clear the normal way you would clear it. the texture you see is not just from the clear it is also from the base and sealer. So sand the clear down with 600 until the texture goes away but dont burn through to the basecoat cuase then you will have to re apply base in that area. unmask the job, clean everything and remask. Then reclear the job the exact same way and it will be flat and beautiful and much less buffing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your right but that takes mad time.. here's a pic of my car totally rebased and not cleared yet... Although the engine bay has been resprayed and recleared to my spec as OEM did not please me









Modified by TeamJDM at 9:45 PM 12/31/2007

snowseeker

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

your right but that takes mad time.. here's a pic of my car totally rebased and not cleared yet...






</TD></TR></TABLE>


ummm, clear is sposed to go on like 40 minutes after the base is shot.

TeamJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowseeker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ummm, clear is sposed to go on like 40 minutes after the base is shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct however.. i did minor plastic work on both doors and both quarters and a small dent on the roof.. i had a spare gallon of PY base so i just based most of the panels.. Anywho when i'm ready to shoot the car it will be wetsanded with 600, then 2 coats of base then cleared with 3-4 coats of DuPont ChromaClear, PPG Concept Clear or maybe even Matrix 2-1 Hi-Solids Clear..

What clear do you guys recommend with a Sata NR2000.. Thanx in advanace

snowseeker

I always use omni clear. Not sure if I use au or the other omni.

bracket 4 life

i have only used dupont so that is what i recommend, the 72500 is the clear i would use. and if you dont want to re clear it just cut it flat and buff it. That will get the texture out of the clear

MatrixGSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IP RACING &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">practice practice practice. proper air pressure and a booth. you will always get dirt in clear if you have no booth. maybe not bad but you will never get it without some debris</TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree. If you do it in a garage when its nice and cold, you'll be just fine. I paint a lot during the winter because the paint doesn't get insects in it!

Also, if you add a bit more reducer to the clear, it will lay flatter but you gotta be careful because its more prone to runs. What I do is let it tack up for about 5-10 mins and apply another coat and it will come out perfect like glass.

MatrixGSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Correct however.. i did minor plastic work on both doors and both quarters and a small dent on the roof.. i had a spare gallon of PY base so i just based most of the panels.. Anywho when i'm ready to shoot the car it will be wetsanded with 600, then 2 coats of base then cleared with 3-4 coats of DuPont ChromaClear, PPG Concept Clear or maybe even Matrix 2-1 Hi-Solids Clear..

What clear do you guys recommend with a Sata NR2000.. Thanx in advanace</TD></TR></TABLE>

Totally not necessary. No manufacturer SAYS you have to spray clear after 40 minutes of having a base coat applied. What does this mean for Tri-coat paints like pearls? By trade its wet&gt;wet because of time. I have had flawless results MANY times with dried paints when applying clears.

snowseeker

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MatrixGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Totally not necessary. No manufacturer SAYS you have to spray clear after 40 minutes of having a base coat applied. What does this mean for Tri-coat paints like pearls? By trade its wet&gt;wet because of time. I have had flawless results MANY times with dried paints when applying clears.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Do yuo have any pics of your paint jobs?