ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics.
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Re: (Built B16A)
ok. so i did some work today.
i repaired the huge crack on the side with the missing mounting hole. plastex works great!
i repaired the broken mounting hole. just have to drill out the center, and sand it down, to blend in the lines... came out pretty good..
so with that being said.. im ready for my filler.. i might give that a shot tomorrow.
still debating if i should attempt to spray my own paint...
i repaired the huge crack on the side with the missing mounting hole. plastex works great!
i repaired the broken mounting hole. just have to drill out the center, and sand it down, to blend in the lines... came out pretty good..
so with that being said.. im ready for my filler.. i might give that a shot tomorrow.
still debating if i should attempt to spray my own paint...
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Re: ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics. (Built B16A)
i think i did a pretty good job of using filler for my 1st time.
it was at 200 grit.. feels pretty smooth.. no ruff edges at all, no lines you could feel, so im sure a quick 400 or 600, and then some primer, and after sanding the primer, im pretty sure im ready for paint.
it was at 200 grit.. feels pretty smooth.. no ruff edges at all, no lines you could feel, so im sure a quick 400 or 600, and then some primer, and after sanding the primer, im pretty sure im ready for paint.
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Re: (Built B16A)
not sure if you can see the scratches, but in the last picture, where the scratches were i have a few hairline scratches.. i hope sanding will take them out. ide hate to lay more filler after primer.
the area where the crack was is 100% filled, ready for paint.
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Re: (Genuine Rolla)
I WOULD WETSAND THAT AREA WITH 220, LAY A THIN COAT OF FILLER AGAIN ....SAND THAT WITH 150 DRY, THEN 220 WET, 320 WET, PRIMER, 600 WET, BASE, CLEAR
I DOUBT YOU'LL BE ABE TO JUST "SAND THAT DOWN" DEFINETLY LOOKS LIKE IT NEEDS A BIT OF FILLER..... ITS AN EXTRA 1/2 HOUR - 45 MINS, IF YOU SPENT THIS MUCH TIME SO FAR, JUST TAKE YOUR TIME AND MAKE IT PERFECT! OOD JOB MAN!
I DOUBT YOU'LL BE ABE TO JUST "SAND THAT DOWN" DEFINETLY LOOKS LIKE IT NEEDS A BIT OF FILLER..... ITS AN EXTRA 1/2 HOUR - 45 MINS, IF YOU SPENT THIS MUCH TIME SO FAR, JUST TAKE YOUR TIME AND MAKE IT PERFECT! OOD JOB MAN!
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Re: ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics. (Built B16A)
sorry, shitty camera phone, but my hands were dirty, and i didn't want to drag out the "BIG" camera.
primered, no sanding at all.. no runs.. came out really well. its supposed to rain here in socal till saturday... go figure..
so im not sure if im going to try and shoot it in this humidity? any advice?
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just base.. but i just learned that i thinned it way too much..
i shot that at 1:1.. and the ratio is 2:1.. so it was like really really thin.
anyways, thats just base.. and the can lid was really rough, just a quick coat of primer, and shot it prolly 5 times, right after flash.. kinda heavy.. it shows runs at the bottom, but im sure because it was 1:1 paint, not the 2:1 it SHOULD of been! haha
oh, and its raining outside right now, and its really cold, and humidity is up. should i wait till the weekend, or could i pull this off with a few heat lamps and a propane heater?
i shot that at 1:1.. and the ratio is 2:1.. so it was like really really thin.
anyways, thats just base.. and the can lid was really rough, just a quick coat of primer, and shot it prolly 5 times, right after flash.. kinda heavy.. it shows runs at the bottom, but im sure because it was 1:1 paint, not the 2:1 it SHOULD of been! haha
oh, and its raining outside right now, and its really cold, and humidity is up. should i wait till the weekend, or could i pull this off with a few heat lamps and a propane heater?
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Re: (Built B16A)
NO SANDING! NO PRIMER!
5 coats of base, and about 4 clears. i dunno what happen close to the bottom, but other than the lint, and im sure the lack of primer didn't help, doesn't look too bad. im gunna try and spray the plastic tail tomorrow.
another thing.. this was like 10 mins after the last coat of clear.. the cure time is 4 hours, so im not sure if its going to haze up, become clearer.. so we'll see..
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Re: (Genuine Rolla)
damn .... the bottom came out like pooop..... didnt lay the clear close enough like you did at the top. i hope theres enough to wetsand an buff out....good luck
#38
looks like I got in this thread a little too late to offer any advice, but it looks like it came out pretty nice. Wetsand with 1500 in the rough spots then all over 2000 grit and then buff it out, should look pretty nice.
If you ever do any repair work again, consider getting 'guide coat' or just using a can of black spraypaint to mist over the primer, then sand. If there is any flaws in the body work they should become apparent because the guide coat will not be sanded off. Doesn't work as well on panels shaped like that one, but its never a bad idea.
If you ever do any repair work again, consider getting 'guide coat' or just using a can of black spraypaint to mist over the primer, then sand. If there is any flaws in the body work they should become apparent because the guide coat will not be sanded off. Doesn't work as well on panels shaped like that one, but its never a bad idea.
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If you need to, start with 800 or 1000 grit to remove the orange peel that is on the bottom then just buff it and polish. At least you didn't get any drips..!
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Re: (milkmanLCA)
heres the bike... im going from 1 huge long seat, to 2 separate individual seats.. i'll be doing a before and after also..
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Re: (Built B16A)
<FONT SIZE="9">UPDATED PICS!</FONT>
sunlight, and a different camera makes the worlds difference! not to shabby for $15 a pint paint! haha
sunlight, and a different camera makes the worlds difference! not to shabby for $15 a pint paint! haha
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wow...! That looks like it came out great man..! I'm friggin impressed. Are you starting to get a feel for laying down clear and things like that..?
I'd wait a couple days before wetsanding, allow the clear to cure a bit more.
I'd wait a couple days before wetsanding, allow the clear to cure a bit more.
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Re: (Genuine Rolla)
this was the 2nd attempt, and i think its safe to say it was a success.. but yeah, i find that the base is more forgiving than the clear. the 1st time i shot paint, i laid the paint kinda heavy, and then kinda light on the clear, and it came out really orange peel...
this time, i laid alot of thin base coats.. i think like 5 or 6.. but the clear went on nice and thick.. very wet. i waited a full flash time, and when i hit the 2nd coat, you could see the piece actually like haze up, and then once you got enough on, and it actually looked wet, and slick, i waited for the next coat. the last piece got ide say a good 4 coats of clear.
i had no idea cure time on clear was that long though.. ****, sounds like i won't be able to do anything with it untill sunday...
this time, i laid alot of thin base coats.. i think like 5 or 6.. but the clear went on nice and thick.. very wet. i waited a full flash time, and when i hit the 2nd coat, you could see the piece actually like haze up, and then once you got enough on, and it actually looked wet, and slick, i waited for the next coat. the last piece got ide say a good 4 coats of clear.
i had no idea cure time on clear was that long though.. ****, sounds like i won't be able to do anything with it untill sunday...
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Re: (Built B16A)
today i installed the new tail.. and im still undecided about the yellow rear seat.. i might recover it to match the black tail.
and sorry due to the camera phone pic.. its all i had handy.. also, it would be easier to buff and polish with it installed, so its not moving around soo much. but i have a couple more days on the clear hardening.