Swell_Ryder

I did some searching on here but never found the exact answer I need. I have fixed my problem and figured I'd share with the community for the next poor sap that has this issue.

Issue at hand was the fan/blower motor stopped working in my wifes 2003 CR-V. First step was to figure out if the actual blower motor itself **** out or is it something else. So I removed the motor which was much easier than I expected and hooked it up to my 12V power supply and it worked fine. Ok, so why is the damn thing not working when I turn the dial. After consulting some people on here and chatting with someone at the dealership they said 9 times out of 10 if the motor works then it is the transistor module (number 8 in the image below, Part number 79330-SCA-A02). I went to my local dealership to order the part which is only like $25 and they would only sell me the whole blower assembly for like $400 so I told them to **** off. I bought the part from Son's Acura in Georgia for $21 + shipping. Two semi hard to get to screws and a 4 pin plug and your done.

The wife once again has AC and is happy.

Also to note, if the blower itself will not turn on then the AC compressor will not turn on so don't freak out just yet try this first.

This can also be purchased here: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...LOWER





Modified by Swell_Ryder at 8:03 AM 7/22/2008


Modified by Swell_Ryder at 4:32 PM 8/4/2008

SafariWraps

Great tip!
I have one more obscure possibility in case someone else has this problem.
And I speak from experience.
After replacing the resistor on my 93 del sol, I removed the blower motor and tested it with a battery charger. The motor was still good. Next I tore out just about the entire dash to get access to the actual switch assembly. (Long, involved and requiring the skills of a contortionist) Once I had the switch in my hand I tried rotating the post to the various speed settings. When it was still installed in the dash, I would turn the **** but there was faint resistance between settings. Now with the switch assembly in hand, it would click between positions.
The answer...
The black plastic switch **** was cracked and wasn't able to turn the metal post that it was assembled on.

The car had come back from having bodywork performed and my guess is the less than reputable guy working on my car created the issue somehow. It was a cheap fix, but a long and involved diagnosis.

Ross 2.0

All you had to do was ask. I could have saved you the trouble lol. But good writeup.