EK K20 Swap
#26
Re: EK K20 Swap
I got another Question harness wise. i saw you mention the 05 harness is this motor out of an 05 EP3 hatch? Do you use the whole harness from the EP3 or do you have to cut and splice? I know they sell full harnesses but they are a bit pricey for my build. Im trying to avoid that as well i have an mk6 VW that costs plenty to mod and i don't want to take away any funds from that lol
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Re: EK K20 Swap
I got another Question harness wise. i saw you mention the 05 harness is this motor out of an 05 EP3 hatch? Do you use the whole harness from the EP3 or do you have to cut and splice? I know they sell full harnesses but they are a bit pricey for my build. Im trying to avoid that as well i have an mk6 VW that costs plenty to mod and i don't want to take away any funds from that lol
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Re: EK K20 Swap
Yeah sending the ecu out for k pro tomorrow conversion harness should be here today so I'm seeing light at the end of the tunnel. Me finishing depends on how long my ecu takes to get done and back to me. I still got rear disc brake conversion but I think imma leave it for spring time cause I have no heat in the garage and I hate the cold.
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Re: EK K20 Swap
completed the exhaust system kinda like how it came out lol
Chopped it up and just used a band clamp on it
Fuel system complete
This is the passenger side axle looks like the boot is stretched some what but I felt around it and the inner section seems to be in good cause I don't feel the inna bearings outside the inner cup, so I think I should be good
Shot from underneath
driver side perfect fit
Not ashamed of my messy garage lol
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Re: EK K20 Swap
Its not till you get into it you find out that some stuff you read on the forums really are not true you best source of info is actually from people who have actually done the work themselves, im not knocking the other forum where I got a lil wrong info but im just saying
#37
Re: EK K20 Swap
Exsactly ^ i Agree 100 percent. Many people do things many different way when i did my first swap it was a b16 swap and it was "Supposed to" be direct drop in and you use an EX harness... well that is not the case because depending on the gen of the motor and what sensors are being used with what ECU.. its all variable. and i can def tell this is even more so the case with this swap because this motor is by no means a direct drop in!. You get the most experience with doing it your self even just memorizing the engine bay you can get to a point where you know if it will fit by looking at it or looking at mounts and saying no thats to short this motor will sit to far back.
And on that axle issue if you feel that its pushed back in to place enough you may just want to slide that boot back bit more so it if you can.
I keep looking at those bloody D series motor and it starts to make my sick looking at it.. my GtI has 100 more horsepower and.. it has to go.
And on that axle issue if you feel that its pushed back in to place enough you may just want to slide that boot back bit more so it if you can.
I keep looking at those bloody D series motor and it starts to make my sick looking at it.. my GtI has 100 more horsepower and.. it has to go.
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Re: EK K20 Swap
And on that axle issue if you feel that its pushed back in to place enough you may just want to slide that boot back bit more so it if you can.
I keep looking at those bloody D series motor and it starts to make my sick looking at it.. my GtI has 100 more horsepower and.. it has to go.
#41
Re: EK K20 Swap
those should be the positives that run to your fuse box....Here this should help a little!
http://www.karcepts.com/index_files/...ss%20Guide.pdf
NOTE!!! In this guide^^^ it says that the positive from the battery goes to the front of the two fuse box posts and the alternator positive goes to the rear of the two fuse box posts; however from my own research Ive found that the battery positive goes to the rear and the alternator positive goes to the front.
http://www.karcepts.com/index_files/...ss%20Guide.pdf
NOTE!!! In this guide^^^ it says that the positive from the battery goes to the front of the two fuse box posts and the alternator positive goes to the rear of the two fuse box posts; however from my own research Ive found that the battery positive goes to the rear and the alternator positive goes to the front.
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Re: EK K20 Swap
those should be the positives that run to your fuse box....Here this should help a little!
http://www.karcepts.com/index_files/...ss%20Guide.pdf
NOTE!!! In this guide^^^ it says that the positive from the battery goes to the front of the two fuse box posts and the alternator positive goes to the rear of the two fuse box posts; however from my own research Ive found that the battery positive goes to the rear and the alternator positive goes to the front.
http://www.karcepts.com/index_files/...ss%20Guide.pdf
NOTE!!! In this guide^^^ it says that the positive from the battery goes to the front of the two fuse box posts and the alternator positive goes to the rear of the two fuse box posts; however from my own research Ive found that the battery positive goes to the rear and the alternator positive goes to the front.
#44
Re: EK K20 Swap
Now I wonder if I switch the two wires around if it will fix the battery light or if Im wrong and it will harm the relay box.
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Re: EK K20 Swap
I ran mine as I stated above and it seems to function correctly however my battery light is on but my battery is strong as ever and Ive been doing test start ups over and over so I'm pretty sure its getting a charge.
Now I wonder if I switch the two wires around if it will fix the battery light or if Im wrong and it will harm the relay box.
Now I wonder if I switch the two wires around if it will fix the battery light or if Im wrong and it will harm the relay box.
#49
Re: EK K20 Swap
I had a brain fart. I wired into the blue w/ white tracer wire rather than the white w/blue tracer wire on connector B. Stupid mistake but at least I didnt fry the ecu. Everythings good to go now, soon as my o2 sensor gets here I wont even have a CEL.