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I know this has been covered and talked about many many times. I’ve been digging for a few days now, enough to know that this topic is somewhat old lol. But there are some things that I’m experiencing that maybe be a little different from what I can find. Noob to the forum...
so I got this car from a guy that did the swap.. it’s a 96 ek hatch. Has y7 block, rebuilt with stock internals, y8 head, y8 intake, y8 tb, still has harness from y7 (obd2). Vtec was not wired in properly so I corrected that. The iacv is 2 wire now... so I made sure it was correct, I thought it was wrong from what I read so I swapped the black/blue wire to the yellow/black. Ran it up the road now it dies when I come to a stop and push in my clutch. Which since I’ve had it, it just hasn’t ran right, but it’s never done this. So I checked my wiring for the iacv again turns out it was correct and I was wrong! So I put the black/blue wire back with the black wire and yellow/black wire back to the green/black. Does the same thing, it will not idle!!! I have to hold the gas for it to run, I let off it dies. Now when I get up to about 2000rpms it bogs to 1800 and back to 2000 non stop as long as I hold the gas. I’m thinking with me swapping the two wires at the iacv I’ve messed up the valve? Everything is swapped at the ecu for it to be a two wire. Orange wire is tapped up. It has a p28 ecu from a 97 delsol currently. I ordered a jumper and I have a obd1 p28 that I will be going to so I can drop the knock sensor and get rid of it looking for a third wire for iacv etc. from what I can tell the injectors are y8 also. I am getting the code for the iacv. Oh and it’s advanced almost all the way. I know this is long winded and it’s been covered over and over! Please be easy on me lol. Any advice is greatly appreciated!!! I’m I at least heading in the right direction? I just won’t a good running daily, possibly boost In the FUTURE, I know I’ll need to build it and do some things different but until then.. previous owner was just feed up with it. Thank you!!
Last edited by Claybraham; 09-18-2019 at 06:11 PM.
Well I got a new iacv, idles way better. But still acts/sounds like I have 2 step at 2000 rpms and jolts pretty bad when I hit around the 2000 mark shifting gears. Idk I’m kinda clueless. Is the yellow/ black wire supposed to be moved at the ecu also? Maybe my problem is the ecu itself, waiting on my obd2 to obd1 jumper to run a p28 that’s been chipped. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Edit: so I got my jumper harness. I’m now running a p28 chipped. Runs a lot better. Idle is still a little low. But, I can drive it around about 30-45 minutes and when I come to a stop, push in my clutch and it wants to die on me. I have to feather the gas with the clutch in to keep it running. Does run a lot better though. I’m not getting any codes at all. Do I need to go to a obd1 dizzy? I have a obd2 (10 pin). I have seen a few mixed answers about that on here. Also with the obd2 ecu I was getting a multiple misfire code along with each cylinder misfire codes. But I think that was do to me not running a knock sensor. Hopefully I’ll be able to check compression in the morning and if compression is good I’m changing the plugs and wires to be sure of that. Hopefully someone will chime in soon with a suggestion or idea. Thank you!
Last edited by Claybraham; 09-24-2019 at 07:18 PM.
I’m really thinking I need a different distributor. Since it has a obd2 harness and I’m using a obd1 p28. It’s a 10 pin dizzy that’s on it. Can some one please verify this? And which one I need. It’s about to be my only transportation for a little while. Reason I’m asking is I’ve seen many different answers on it.
Please any help would be much appreciated. I still don’t know if my dizzy should be ok. Timing is still advanced, but the past few weeks I’ve been driving it around and it’s been acting fine until a few days ago. When the car gets warmed up and I stop at a gas station or something it’s really hard to start back up. Also it sometimes stalls at stop lights. Main relay? But that still doesn’t explain my timing issues. I’ve bleed the cooling system to get all the bubbles out, I can hear the fuel pump come on, plugs and wires are good, only thing I really haven’t done is clean my tb or replace the injectors. I’m honestly about to give up. I have no one to talk to about it, just kinda tired of fooling with it. This is the last post I’m posting unless someone has any advice, thank you!
The low idle issue is a fairly easy fix. There’s a throttle stop bolt on the bottom of the throttle body that stops the throttle wheel from shutting all the way. Should me a 2.5mm allen threaded rod with a 7mm lock nut. Break the lock nut loose and adjust the allen up till it idles at about 800rpms with the iacv unplugged. Plug the iacv back in. Tighten the 7mm lock nut back up and it should idle how it’s supposed to. As for the hard starting issue that could be allot of things. Are there any check engine lights on? If so start by checking those. To check them you can ground Ecu pin d4 to chassis (google obd1 ecu pinout and find d4) and the cel will flash codes and tell you what’s going on.
Thank you so much for that info! It has no codes at all. But I’ll still check! With it being a mini me y7 block and y8 head, y8 intake, I should be ok with the y8 tb right? I have read that some use the y7 tb instead. I bought the car like this lol. Just trying to get it right. But thank you for that info!!! I didn’t realize that adjustment was there
I just got home and adjusted the idle and that’s way better. Also did a compression test. 181 , 155 , 155 , 175 from left to right.
Last edited by Claybraham; 10-31-2019 at 03:17 AM.
Yes you will need a y8 or standard style throttle body. Not a y7 (or auto y8) that has the integrated iacv. That throttle body will give you allot of issues if your trying to run that with a standard 2 wire iacv on the back of the intake manifold hooked up because it will creat vacuum leaks. Y7 throttle body will only work on a y7 Ecu or auto y8 Ecu. A p28 obd1 needs a two wire iacv. Also another thing that’s always good to double check is the tps calibration. The middle wire for the tps will be red and that’s the sensor voltage, that should read .49v at closed with the ignition on and 4.50 Volts at wide open with the ignition in the on position, the closed value is much more important then the wot value but if the wot volts are way high it can make the car cut out at full throttle from the Ecu reading the over voltage. If your still having issues with the car try posting a good quality video or two showing the gauge cluster and what the car is doing and I’ll do my best to help you out.
also those compression numbers are a little bit worrisome on cylinders 2&3 but not quite yet to the point where they will cause major issues. Generally around 120 psi the engine will start fouling out plugs from lack of combustion.
Thank you all for the info! I’m pretty sure it’s a y8 tb. I know for sure it’s a y8 intake. It’s been converted to a two wire iacv. As far as it being a auto tb how can I tell, might be a dumb question but I’m not sure of the difference. I will run the voltage test like you said in the morning. I am also worried about the compression on those two cylinders. I’m certain my mechanical timing is correct. But I have to advance it all the way to make it run. It just dies on me once in a blue moon at stoplights. And now almost every time I make a stop, cut the car off it’s very hard to start back up. When this happens again I’ll make a video and share it. Also is it possible that I have a different cam? Say maybe a z6? I do have a adjustable cam gear if that would help any. It is a y8 head though 100%. I’m going to try and add a few photos the guy I got it from took when he rebuilt it. Thank you!
the photo of the cam gear was not taken when crank was at tdc.. just a random photo I took
Last edited by Claybraham; 10-31-2019 at 07:32 PM.
Nothing scares me more then other people rebuilding motors if I don’t know that they know what they are doing lol. I tune kids cars a lot and they are like oh I just rebuilt it, I ask what ring gap is set to and then they ask, “ring gap?” Same goes for bearing clearances. Allot of times people just throw **** together and cross their fingers that it works out. As far as telling the throttle body’s apart the y7/ auto y8 will have a spot for a 3 wire plug that’s on it for the integrated iacv.
the hatch looks really nice in the picture though man. Love the blue and the whistlers look good on it too.
Nothing scares me more then other people rebuilding motors if I don’t know that they know what they are doing lol. I tune kids cars a lot and they are like oh I just rebuilt it, I ask what ring gap is set to and then they ask, “ring gap?” Same goes for bearing clearances. Allot of times people just throw **** together and cross their fingers that it works out. As far as telling the throttle body’s apart the y7/ auto y8 will have a spot for a 3 wire plug that’s on it for the integrated iacv.
the hatch looks really nice in the picture though man. Love the blue and the whistlers look good on it too.
thank you! I agree, kids now days lol. I’ve built Chevy motors and I’m pretty mechanical inclined. But Honda is pretty new to me. Same concept but different lol. I talked to him for awhile about the car and he seemed very knowledgeable. But I’m afraid it may have been thrown together. Just trying to make it right and dependable, atleast I hope. I have thought about throwing in the towel and going b series. Thank you for that photo and information! I’m checking it out first thing in the morning, but from looking at that photo I’m almost positive it’s a y8 tb I have
Honda’s are super simple man. I also love gm stuff, always have always will. Can’t beat what you can do with Honda’s for the money though.
yes, always a gm fan! I’ve had several Honda’s. Always ran great. Never did anything to them but tune ups and oil changes really. All bone stock. But with this one I’m learning more about Honda, and I love to learn so that’s good. Do you think it’s possible for my y8 head to have a different cam in it (not y8) that could be giving me the issues as far as advanced ignition timing though? If that even makes since lol. Would there be any way to tell if it’s a y8 cam? I imagine it is but it’s got me curious. Thank you!
Don’t quote me on this but I beleive its the cam gear itself that the timing is cut into. You’d be better off googling and reading up on d-series.org cause I can’t give you a good answer off the top of my head. As far as having the dizzy fully advanced that’s not uncommon, allot of cars that I tune need to have the dizzy all the way advanced to have the ignition timing set at the 16* mark on the crank pulley.
Ok so maybe it’s not as big of a problem as I was thinking. Just need to find out why it’s hard to start after getting warm and stopping. Sometimes it fires right up. In the beginning I think my iacv was my biggest problem. Still a little concerned about my compression test. But when it’s running it runs smooth to me. Idles better after I adjusted the tb like I was suggested to do. I did pick up a main relay today but I haven’t drove the car today. It would be great if if was my issue. I’ll do more research about the cam just for info etc. I appreciate everyone’s info, time and suggestions! It’s greatly appreciated
Honestly I’m not sure about it. I just know it’s chipped. I opened it up and it definitely it. It runs fine in my car. But I did pick up a stock p28 also, that’s what I’m running now. I did take a video today. It wouldn’t start on me and when I thought about making a video it decided it wanted to start lol I was alone and it’s just a short video of the cluster. I’ll try to upload it
It wouldn’t let me upload the video. But.... it got worse and worse about it not wanting to start. I AlWAYS keep check on my oil! I checked it today and it’s was chocolate milk 😔. Got the head pulled off of it and on top of my pistons was oil build up ( on a just rebuilt motor) I’m thinking previous owner didn’t do I valve job of replace any seals. Might be a cracked head also who knows. Kids slapping **** together now days doing a half *** job! Sorry for the rant, just disappointed lol. Guess the good thing is I’ll be rebuilding it and I know it’ll be done right. Thanks to all for the help and advice!! I think I had other issues on top of this one and it just now showed itself. Thanks again everyone for the help!
Lol how does someone miss that when putting a head on. Probably just needs a new head gasket. I would have the head checked for flatness but other then that throw it back together with a new headgasket and see what it does.
Lol how does someone miss that when putting a head on. Probably just needs a new head gasket. I would have the head checked for flatness but other then that throw it back together with a new headgasket and see what it does.
sorry I just seen your reply lol. Yeah that’s what I’m thinking I might do. Green and yellow wire, I’m thinking it was the vtech wire. My guess is that when he done it and realized he pulled the head back off to get the end of the plug out of the cylinder lol. Then put it back together. That’s why he told me he put all new vtech and wires and plug on it, I remember him saying that. Pretty sure this head is warped. I just bought another y8 head a few days ago luckily. Diffidently going to have it checked out and all that good stuff though
lol you maybe be right! This morning when I got home I was doing a little cleaning on the block and checking out the cylinders. I noticed all four pistons have a little play in them. I can move them back and forth a little. Just enough to notice barley to the eye. That normal? Cylinder walls are nice and smooth, no egg shape filling or lip at the top.
09-18-2019, 05:29 PM
Y7/y8 questions...
