Norcalstoppy

I just installed my FPR and had my car dyno tuned at Import Builders:


Stock JDM B20B Block (same as USDM B20Z)
*Edited* Stock USDM 92 GSR PR3 head
RS Akimoto Ram Intake w/ K&N filter
DC 4-2-1 Ceramic (Welded at both primaries for cracks and both secondaries dented, damn those Neuspeed Race Springs....)
Greddy BL muffler w/ crush bent custom piping
B&M FPR & Gauge

The big dip in the curve at about 6k rpm is due to my dented and cracked dc header ( f'ing piece of shiet) and stock 11 yrs old cat. I expect to make 160+hp and 130+lb-ft of torque w/ CAI, better header and hi flow cat.

Before B&M, I baselined at 146hp and 109lb-ft of torque. I was running dangerously lean and didn't even know it. And to think that my dumbass was racing it at Palmdale..... it's all your fault, RK!

Share you thoughts. Thank you.

Jay Kim


[Modified by AllMotorMonster, 2:47 AM 8/17/2002]

Norcalstoppy

Thanks.

Here's a dyno comparing my car to RK's GSR.


Once again, I meet my doom against RK's "White Lightning" right at about 5.7k rpm due to my restrictive exhaust and low redline( well...the weight difference of the cars too, but anyhow...) My cams, 92-93 GSR, should be OK up to about 8k, but the power just drops right after 7k. The hell with DC and stock cat.

Jay Kim



[Modified by AllMotorMonster, 2:48 AM 8/17/2002]

daver

nice, a completely bone "stock" b20vtec. I've been waiting for one of those for a loong time now. I've been trying to decide whether or not i should do one, because i don't want to crank the rpms past 7k (and get all my power in by then).

151 whp is pretty good considering the cat restriction (175 fly hp about). I've seen charts of b20's gaining 10hp+ easily with that restriction removed. The torque line is rather low, but the most important thing i see here is that the tork doesn't fall off until nearly 7k. Thats good compared to a straight b20 (stock cams) where the tork always starts to fall by 5-5.5krpms... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?d=224829&page=1
...considering the needle will be btw 5-7k for racing.

Just out of curiosity, did you bother to shave out the piston valve reliefs for the larger valves?

d

gsrvx

Good shiet Jay.

-Rod

SiBirdie

here my b20vtec
ROSS 11.5 piston
B&M FPR + GAUGE
DC 4-1
test pipte
2.5 pipping with es oval 2.5
with mugen program.

now i got a prospeed ecu that was ment for b20vtec. So I dunno my number with this new ecu.

daver

wow, that's some high x-over point mister. what head and cams you got?

Norcalstoppy

I would love to get a header but I want to raise my car first. If I just keep my suspension as it is, my brand new header's gonna end up in same shape as one right now.

Also a tune-up is on the way since, my car has been running extremely lean, I suspect that my plugs are fouled up pretty bad.

Jay Kim

SiBirdie

i know its a high x-point, thats how the mugen ecu was design. Im running on STOCK b16a2 head , with skunk 2 cams gears =P

9d9GSR

how much did it cost to dyno tune your car

tinkerbell

you havent told us the most important numbers yet!!!!

what did you set the fuel pressure to?!?!!?

are you using stock squirters?

what was your A/F like before & after the tune?

did you mill you head at all? did you shave the piston reliefs at all?

thanks!

t..

JDM EG2

I'm sorry to say, but none of those #'s are impressive. The torque on the second person's graph looks good though. I would rather go h22 all the way. More reliable and better #'s pure stock!!!

gsrvx

True...stock numbers are going to be better in a h22....but I'd much rather stick to a simple b series swap.

JDM EG2

I don't know what u have been lookin into but crv/vtec is not simple and costs more than doin a h22 swap!!!

Norcalstoppy

H this!

H series is good. If I had the money, I would go with H22 swap too. But the biggest downfall of a H-series swap is the weight in the front. Understeering is a biatch. You ever had to pump your gas and brake at the same time because your damn car won't turn? With b20 swap i probably only increased the weight in the front of MY car by maybe at most 50lbs. With a H22 swap it'll be a different story.

Like I said, the block is completely stock. No milling and unfortunately no shaved pistons. The fuel pressure is set approximately at 49psi. Those numbers weren't meant to be impressive they're just a baseline that could still be improved with some basic bolt-ons.

Anyways, care to show us your numbers?

Jay Kim

daver

well notice how the tork line in that second graph just falls off after 6k. I'd say the cams are a restriction for all the displacement as freeflow he has. flatline that curve for another 1000rpm with cams and he's pushing nearly 180hp.

d

X2BOARD

Is this graph typical of a base line CRVT ? The torque numbers are nasty low for a 2.0 L ! (Now flaming, just noticing)

X2

bgod

not much of a weight difference between the b series longblock and h series longblock. it's about 60-70lbs. at most. don't be fooled.

however, nothing has beaten a fully worked b series motor ont eh street yet. b20vtec primarily. h22a's are great, but the added costs, no factors such as a/c power steering. both not easy to keep. use of non oem axles which can suck at times.

i'm an h22a guy. but a b20vtec is ridiculous.

friend's current set-up. running a sir2 head, b20b block. endyn 12:1 pistons, ctr cams, crower and itr valvetrain. pretty affordable set-up. has the skunk2 intake manifold, jdm 4-1 headers, straight pipe, comptech exhaust, underhood intake.

in a 92 cx with power windows/locks.

on full slicks with all seats in the car, no spare ran a 12.6@107-108mph. forget the exact trap. he was at englishtown a month back running the car here in new jersey. also ran a 12.8 that same day.

but get this, the 12.6 was with a 2.0 60 foot when most people with the same set-up are running anywhere from 1.6-1.8 60 foot times.

awesome car and it's not gutted beyond belief. no power/a-c. has sparcos, gsr rear seats, all carpet.

Norcalstoppy

Dont' forget folks. This is stock compression....even with b17 head....

my compression is around 9.3CR....


Jay Kim

tinkerbell

what does this mean? i am not planing to shave my pistons PLUS i have milled my head 1mm.

are the valves causing problems?

*edit - what ECU are you using - is it chipped?*

i am still putting it together...

TIA,

t..


[Modified by tinkerbell, 2:29 PM 8/20/2002]


[Modified by tinkerbell, 2:30 PM 8/20/2002]

daver

jay kim, a 9.3cr you say? How many psi's did the compression test reveal?

d

Jonathan_ED3

That's a fairly 'built' engine....12.1 C/R? Good lord...Does he drive this on the street? I guess you're in a place that can get higher than 92 Octane....

my friends setup:

'95 CX. '95 JDM H22. DC Header. Full interior..NOTHING stripped. Slicks (pretty sure on 13" steelies...might be 14"). Tokico shocks, Nuespeed Race Springs.....and has a/c.

12.8@105mph. 2.1 60ft. (don't remember the other specs..don't ask..I don't have the slip to scan in)

He's about to add cams/retainers/valve springs etc and get a good dyno tune....

I don't see how anybody can argue against an h22 unless you auto-x...Are those times not impressive enough STOCK?

bgod

hot eg, well i'm an h22a guy and i don't really consider pistons in a b series block too built. i just mean, throwing in pistons is only a matter of purchasing then honing the block. much cheaper proposition then the h22a where the block needs to be sleeved to run forged pistons.

we're in nj here and can get 93octane, 94 octane at sunoco. but he runs either 92-93 octane.

as for your friends h22a, not doubting some are quick. but most can come no where close to breaking 13's even with full slicks and the mods above, let alone full interior.

i believe even a fellow ht.com member newman who used to run an h22a stock with hotshot headers, exhaust, intake, full slicks and somewhat stripped interior only ran a 13.1-13.3 or so. i say only since the 12.8 your friend ran is impressive.

Jason kiDD

I would have to disagree. hehe Only because my plans are to break 13's. But I believe Newman has since reached the lands of the 12's but again that could be with his b20 vtec setup as well. I guess it all depends on what work you have done to your car, including suspension and such...

Gimme a few months and I will have some numbers on what a real perfomance lude can do in a Civic body, with handling to boot.

wheemer

My setup is pretty much stock...

Click Here For My Thread

Norcalstoppy

I got the 9.3 CR from the CR calculator at http://www.cspeedracing.com. The compression was 200 200 190 200 couple months ago.

The pistons on B20b/z have clearance problems with vtec valves. According to CRVtec.com, the valve reliefs on CRV pistons are 31mm which are standard valve size for non-vtec head. But the vtec valves are 33mm and with cam timing advance the valves will start hitting the pistons.

Jay Kim