DXHatch91

Wow lots of info but im a little confused now lol. So in a nutshell b18b1 ls or b18c1 vtec (or type r)? And you all seem to make great points but i dont wanna go with anything misleading.

sfar785

for the price a boosted LS is hard to beat, but if you wanna build a motor that's gonna be nasty just go GSR.

4drEF

More WTH?

DXHatch91

Ok but all in all either motor would still be good to reach 275-300hp nicely just one would cost more and one is alot more work to maintain?

sfar785

from what i've seen and experienced, both motors will require a lot of maintenance. I had a buddy boost a stock LS and he was 250+hp, then i have a buddy with a fully built GSR that's boosted and that thing is sitting a little under 500hp. I know the 1 with the GSR has his car here on H-T. Although both motors quit at 1 point and both were rebuilt, the LS required less time and money to get going again. I still don't think the GSR is up and running yet tho.

BLU CIVIC

^ my guess is the reason th LS took less time and money to get going again is b/c since the GSR was built, it required more expensive forged internals to be replaced and the person with the LS probably had the money, which is why it's was on the road sooner. just a guess

either motor will do, it's all in which one you want. both motors respond very well to being turbo'd and both motors can reach your goals safely completely stock...just pick one and proceed from there. making threads like these tend to confuse b/c everyone's giving their opinion. i personally like both set-ups. Neither motor need more maintenance over the other...dunno why you would think that. One's vtec and one's not and one just costs more

do some research, for your own sake, by starting here:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/basic

and then check out the forced induction section on H-T

sfar785

you're correct, he had to buy all new rods/pistons and get the cylinders resleeved. The guy with the LS just got a new LS short block which cost him all of $200 if i remember right.

206dagsr

hey Can any one help me i got a 92 da gsr with a 95 b18c1 and for some reason it dont pass %thousand rpm's only sometimes and when it do it rides good and when it cant pass 5thousand rpms it rides like **** but when it do it pulls hard can any one help me

DXHatch91

Thanks and i was just asking if the other was easier to maintain but ive got the answers i need theyre both good but in the end it is up to me to decide which build i want i appreciate all the great advice.

Hidenplanvew

I would do a comp clutch stage 2, you can find the cable to hydro kit for cheaper just shop around. if your doing to boost just do a C1 or the cheaper b18c motor..

DXHatch91

Ok thanks and also this is kind of off topic but im doing a mpfi swap in the same 91 civic hatch dx and i know i need all the parts (intake mani, TB,resistor box,injectors , ecu etc.) from an 88-91 SI but at my local junkyard a great condition 92 civic ex showed up with everything all intact. I need to know if the TB intake mani plugs engine wiring harness and all other parts for the swap will fit and/or work properlly? I know it may not last long so tomorrow morning i plan on going to get everything which is why i hope someone can help me out a.s.a.p!

turtleef

On a stock b18b1 that claims 300 hp all day everyday year round with no problems once so ever is lied to or lieing to them selfs in order to gain that kind of power that is massive boost introduced more boost then it can handle 220 (240) max I could see it hold but never over 3 8lbs is a lot of boost alone n that's the max a stock engine will hold up if it wants to stay reliable and that's asking to much at times but with 8 pounds I only see it reach 210s. It's fact a 300 daily stock ls motor it's not going to happen with out modifications.
For future turbo builders blue print b4 u shot u need to no how much hp u want to achieve thn turbo map for ur profile. Force induction motors are a different ball game u smack any turbo on it will fail. There's a sweet spot anything outside it is a turbo bomb it's called surge limit to turbo map u need to no the pressure ratio and air flow lbs per. More boost u add the more fuel must be added as well. All are welcome at the auto club speedway this sat.

BLU CIVIC

trying to sound more intelligent than you actually are


Check out this thread before you make baseless assumptions
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/lst-ls-t-turbo-b18a-b18b-setups-1323059/

mt-fly-boy-25

First I know it has been covered, but DO NOT buy from Tiger Japanese. I did and I regretted it. I had to rebuild the head which had bent valves. They promise everything for the engine and give a hunk of junk.

On that note, what is your budget? I have only driven my B18C swapped crx a little as I am still working on it, but DAMN it is a good ride. Now it is much faster than the regular B18b swaps I have driven and ridden in.

So basically if you are going turbo I say to go with the better motor to start with. Either way you can get big power if you have the cash, but like the others have said the big power comes easier and with more reliability in the B18c models.

Good luck and have fun. Check my build thread if you want to see all the problems I have gone through.

sfar785

my buddy ordered a RB26DET from TJ after the tsunami and it came back to the states full of rust and water. They said they checked everything before it ships but they're full of ****.

http://www.ripoffreport.com/auto-shi...-ltd-y453a.htm

DXHatch91

Damn so no tiger lol. Ya to be honest personally i think both builds are nice (boost or not) but i think im still kinda leaning more to the gsr.Thanks for all the help though. Oh and is there a specific honda motor that is lime green. I saw one at the junkyard that looked good but idk what motor it is. The spark plugs plug in at the bottom of the valve cover and it just says honda across the top, not vtec honda or 16 valve honda just HONDA in big letters.

sfar785

no, someone just painted it. Only color the valve covers (i'm assuming that's what you're talking about) is red, black and the ever so rare bronze Mugen.

4drEF

JUN valve cover is green and yellow.
Talk about rare....
Pic is not a B-series, but you get the idea.

DXHatch91

Ok kool thanx just wondering. I was wondering if it was the stock z6 in there but idk ill take a better look at it tomorrow whats destinctive about that motor to look for???

Martin.B

I found myself a B18C1 and fell in love with the thing

Nick-ef-91

I personally have never bought from hmo but from people i know they are rock solid. So yeah, buy from them. Plus they have a kick *** 100% start up garuntee.