abi_cruz

hey everyone, so im thinking about switching the clutch on my s2k, its starting to go out already, but i juz wanted to hear from anyone outthere. if its that hard to do or not. or should i juz take to a shop and get it done. i rather do it my self to save that money for something else.
so if anyone could please give me some feedback on what i have to do or how hard it is i would really appreciate it thanx.

LAS2K

if you have a lift i'm sure its alot easier..

abi_cruz

but other then that is it hard to take off and put another one in?

LAS2K

pm mr. projekt or obserious0

Quick4

I have read many many posts about this task. Expect to spend a weekend on it unless you've done it before... or are VERY technically inclined. There is very little room to work under there... the Tranny sits right up next to the body tunnel... you have to drop the rear of the engine a bit, pull the tranny and bla bla bla...

http://www.s2ki.com has lots of info on this project.

Widebodys2k

its pretty str8 forward, a lift is great, but if your unfortunate like me ii settled for two ramps and 2 jack stands on the rear gets me about 3 feet off the ground witch is perfect for a creeper, well any wayz, air tools help a bunch to obiusly but, you will have to drop the k frame bolts down maybe an inch to inch and a half so you have a little bit more room to work, cause if you take the knuckle head approach like i did the first time you get all the trany bolts thinking im rolling threw this then you get to the wonderful top 2 tranny bolts and notice they wont clear the firewall.

Sean Juan

Let's just say, i wouldn't call it switching. lol

Mr. Projekt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LAS2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pm mr. projekt or obserious0</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not me. Go PM OBSeriousO

Like all the others have said, you have to drop the subframe about 1.5-2" to get to the top tranny bolts. I went the other way by putting my car on stands, attaching a cherry picker to the motor, disconnecting the driveshaft/tranny mounts, and angling the rear down a bit. After unbolting I put a transmission jack underneath and lowered it out.

Don't forget the shift fork.

bruthaboost

If you have the helms, it completely walks you through it. The only pointers I can think of are:

1. you don't need to unbolt the AC compressor from the block. There is plenty of slack in the hoses.
2. You're gonna need 24-32" of extensions to get at the tranny bolts and the starter bolt.
3. The starter bolt is a major PITA. I found using a wobble worked best. When you loosen it, don't pull it out. It's difficult enough just being able to see the damn thing. I'd hate to have to thread a bolt back through the jumble of wiring harness and such.
4. when you bleed the clutch, the slave cylinder has a tendency to hold air (especially if you have the front end still on jack stands). Either angle the rear of the car up to get the bubbles out, or just put the slave cyl in a C-clamp and orient the slave cyl to assure the bubbles go up and out.
5. you don't need a tranny jack. I bought one and I was faster without it (the tranny is very light). Just use a regular jack to bring the tranny down. Putting it up, I just put in on my chest, got on my creeper, "benched" it back up and held it with my knees while threading a few bolts in, then use a jack stand to hold up the tranny while threading in the rest.
6. If time is tight, buy a spare flywheel and have it resurfaced and ready so you don't have to run anywhere with your old one.
7. You don't have to remove the shifter to drop the tranny, but it sure helps when trying to get it back up.
8. Don't use clutchnet discs!
PM me if you have any more probs.

abi_cruz

hey thanks alot guys for all your help. ill let you guys know how it goes im doing it this weekend so wish me luck