Tarlacon

I just finished my water pump and timing belt. I also did the cam seals, balancer belt and seal, and crank seal. This was my first time of doing this much work on a car and took a long time. The first attempt took about 8 hours of work, and my timing was off. It would crank but not start. The second attempt took about 4 hours and I somehow messed up the tensioning. The car would crank and ignite every once in a while, but the timing belt kept slipping, so i needed to go at it again. The third attempt took about 2 hours (proud of my self on the quickness) and got everything right...

...or so I thought. When I start up the car it take about .1 - .2 seconds longer to start than normal, could be due to the colder weather (20 degrees below 2 weeks ago) around here. By itself, this wouldn't be a concern to me. The problem is that once the car starts to warm up, the idle drops VERY low (400-500rpms) if I start driving it and come to a stop, clutch in of course, it will drop all the way down and die. When starting again it is extremely sluggish before 3k rpm, and takes a large amount of pressure on the gas pedal to get it going without having it stall.

Anyone know what this might be? I have read about the timing being off (i am 99.99% sure it was dead on) or the IACV or FITV. I have also read about vacuum line problems causing this. None of the posts I have read have pointed to one of these problems clearly enough for me to diagnose it this way. If it is a vacuum line problem, how do I find where it is?

6gsillyca

My lude does this too every once in a while...

Checking the IACV and FITV are fairly easy things to do. Check them so you can rule them out.

If it is a vacuum line, open the engine bay and listen for a sucking sound. If its a big leak you might be able to hear where it is coming from. If you can't hear it, get a spray bottle filled with water and srart spraying around various vac lines. When the engine chokes up and dies, check the lines around where you were spraying and you should find your vac leak.

Acidcrakker

You did the timing belt, but did you set the ignition timing?

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tarlacon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...or so I thought. When I start up the car it take about .1 - .2 seconds longer to start than normal, could be due to the colder weather (20 degrees below 2 weeks ago) around here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You in the Cascades or something?

Line up all of your timing marks and take a look through the flywheel
hole. Is the white mark between the (V^V) mark?

Tarlacon

Nah, cali, but the temp in the morning has been 15 - 20 degres lower than normal. When I put the TB on it was all lined up, I guess it is possible that in the process of putting it on, something moved slightly. I'll check tomorrow. Forgot to mention, it also squeals when I first start it up, and whenever I am starting from a stop (first gear) for the first 5 - 10 minutes of driving.

No, didn't. I didn't think this would be the problem, because it runs fine until it warms up, my thought was the IACV


Thanks, I'll do this, I am hoping I just need to clean my IACV.


Modified by Tarlacon at 2:05 PM 11/8/2008

Tarlacon

So I am thinking it might be the timing. Anyone know any tricks to make sure that you get it dead on? I have put the 5mm punches in to hold the cams in place for putting the timing belt on, but I think I moved the crank while I was doing it. Is there anyway to lock that in place until I have installed the TB and gotten it tensioned?

gstrudler

If you're timing was off, you'd notice it all the time. Idle problem could be caused by a bad IACV and your idle speed set too low on the throttle body. You should be able to unplug the IACV after the car is warmed up and it shouldn't die, only drop. Power loss could be a number of things. Are you sure you put the balance shaft belts on correctly? Squealing is usually a belt that is too tight, fyi; once the rubber warms up it stretches out and stops squealing. It is probably just your PS belt or maybe alt belt.

I had a power loss problem after doing my t-belt because I adjusted the valve clearances incorrectly, just to throw it out there as a possibility.

Tarlacon

I think my PS belt might be too tight, I was thinking that when I put it on, but thought better too tight than too loose and lose steering while on the road.

So the fact that I only have the problem when my car is warmed up and when the clutch is all the way in indicates that it is not the timing? That is a relief, it runs great once I am moving.

Tarlacon

Cleaned out the IACV, it was dirty as hell. Unfortunately that didn't solve the problem.

Gonna check the timing tomorrow, I think the exhaust cam is off by 1 tooth.

AHHHHHH!!!!! still not getting the timing right... what is the secret? am I just an idiot at this?


Modified by Tarlacon at 6:52 PM 11/10/2008