stunn'd

Well, the other day my car started acting up, the main relay was clicking out of control and I was getting a cel, code 8 TDC sensor. (The car ran great before this.) Now It would run okay.. but sometimes just randomly shut off especially when slowing down to a stop or when i take my foot off the pedal.

Then it would not even turn over, the starter would just shake the engine. Next thing I know, gas was pouring out of the intake manifold near the iacv, when i say pouring I mean a waterfall.

I took the top half of the manifold off and it was filled with gas, more so in the #2 and #4 cylinders. There was also gas on the dipstick and in the cylinder.

Ive siphoned all the gas out and changed the oil, but is there anything else I should do before trying to re-start??

And now for the confusion... the only links of gas to the manifold is through the injectors and possibly the fpr. Why and how could it leak this much damn fuel into the engine, keeping in mind that it ran fine before this for a week two (The h22 swap was fairly recent).

On my engine, the vacuum line going to the fpr originally went through a little solenoid and then into the intake, like this:

I read that you don't need the solenoid so its currently run directly into the manifold. And i do have a throttle body mounted MAP as well as a removed evap canister. Could these have anything to do with it?

Im using a chipped ecu with this basemap off xenocrons website:
http://www.xenocron.com/bins/i...data&

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

DCFIVER

ouch. take a look at the injectors as they may be leaking.

stunn'd

Alright, so I took the injectors out and tested them.. I put 45psi and some injector cleaner to them with my compressor and no leaks. They open, spray and close fine. wtf



And for kicks here's how much gas I siphoned out of the engine...

NAH2B

better make sure your problem is fixed BEFORE you restart otherwise you may very well have a rod come through your block

also you may want to check your rods because there is a good chance they could now be bent.

Altilude

how is your spark at cylinders #2 and #4? ,.... seems like gas isn't being burnt up in those 2 cylinders (obviously)... that allows it to get down to the dipstick, and at the same time, when the piston is travelling up it's probably pushing it back into your mani!..although hmmm intake valve should be closed on the exhaust stroke... so how the hell does it get there?

just hazarding a guess... but i'd start with ignition... fuel delivery is (tongue in cheek) obviously fine.

I like your injector tester, so diy, yet simple and effective (if you can really dial the pressure well)

Scheizty

The only ways that I can think of that you would have fuel in the manifold is:

The intake valves are not opening.
The cylinders are full of fuel and pushing fuel past the valve seals. Which would mean there is fuel in both the intake and cylinder.
The injectors are being held open.

I hope that your exhaust didn't fill with fuel as well...

mattsnooz

why? the cat would be fuked?

If possible check spark at your 2 and 4 as Altilude questioned.

Could your FPR be sending the fuel some how through your vacuum line into your intake? Its not very likely but how the hell could fuel get dumped into your cylinders unless there is no spark to ignite it. I've never seen that solinoid thing you have. I guess theres more for me to learn, but what is all that anyway anybody?

I also noticed that you have a programmable ecu with a tune on it. Check the fuel maps and see if somewhere there is a huge number where it doesn't quite go in line with the numbers around it. Who knows, maybe the program is having a huge dumping of fuel which is flooding the motor.

vlang29

have you checked the timing belt? it makes perfect sense.

explains why you got TDC code
explains why it wasn't running right (skipped a tooth before finally failing)
explains why gas is staying in manifold instead of being sucked thru engine

h23prelude

"have you checked the timing belt? it makes perfect sense.

explains why you got TDC code
explains why it wasn't running right (skipped a tooth before finally failing)
explains why gas is staying in manifold instead of being sucked thru engine "

vlang29 is probably correct, the h22 engines have a reputation of bad timing belt tentioners, if yours is failing then it may have skipped a tooth and caused your problems. one solution is to swap to a h23 manual belt tentioner, much more reliable

stunn'd

Ok, soo.. I got the engine back together and tested it a bit

- I checked the timing and it was fine. Although I dont really think it was this since the engine ran great except for random start ups. I did a manual tensioner swap/ new belt before throwing the engine in. I also forgot to mention that when the fuel was pouring out of the manifold the engine was not running.. but the key was on and the main relay was freaking out.

- I replaced the fpr for a different one and put a clear tube on so I can see if fuel is leaking into the manifold

- I took it for a 45min drive, and it ran great until I decided to open it up, 5min after it just died... tried to start it and it barely went into a really rough chug of an idle. So I took the plugs out, and there was no gas in the cylinders, plugs were dry.. looked normal, no gas on the dipstick. We did the idiot friend test and there was no visible spark on any of the plugs. Now heres the thing, after all this happened I tried starting it about an hour later and it fired right up.... so im thinking this has to be the coil? When it heats up too much it cuts out.. that can happen right?

NeNa

have u tried a new main relay?
I think all honda/acura main relays are the same for OBD1, i know the 5th gen main relay works in a 4th gen...
just puttin in my .02

mattsnooz

COIL. I would try a known good coil pack for the fact that even if you test the primary and secondary (start and run) windings, even if the resistances are withen spec, that doesn't mean the coil is working under different conditions.

Problem with electronic parts is if you open and use it, you can't return it, soo needless to say you need a way to try it, than return it "wink wink" . Or if possible borrow a buddies'.

If its not the coil, than perhaps ICM?

Oh one more thing. When you pull the plugs how are they looking? You mentioned they didn't reek of gas, but are they getting any color or buildup of anysort?

stunn'd

Well, I tried putting a known working main relay in awhile ago, but it did the same thing.

I picked up a coil today, it was 67bucks so I figured it would be worth it to at least knock one thing off the culprit list. And I know the icm is good too, I replaced it with a known working one as well.

Ive driven it a bit, and so far so good... fingers crossed! Thanks for the help everyone.