hoehouseworker

I think my starter is going bad...it clicks when i turn ignition. Engine wont turn over.

Anyone know where i can get a 96 H23 starter? Has anyone ever used a autozone starter, if so do they work well?

If anyone has a starter for sale let me know

SKDRCR

Take your starter off and run it to autozone,
they can test it for you.

If it's bad, I have one I can sell you

BrokeLude

In your other thread you mentioned that it starts fine when you use jumper cables. If that is accurate, it would tend to eliminate the starter as being the source of your problem.

eMpAtHy

if ur car is choking..take a hammer and beat it a little..it tends to help older cars a lot..im not telling u dent it..but throw some vibrations thru it..just hit it a couple times..

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

With the starter installed, hit it with a wrench, or hammer. Then try to start the car.

hoehouseworker

I've tried it hitting the starter, it doesnt help. Im gonna jump the car today and drive to autozone to get the alternator tested so I can narrow down my problem to either the starter or the alternator.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it's bad, I have one I can sell you </TD></TR></TABLE>

If the starter is my problem how much for it shipped? I will get to you later after I test the alternator

mgags7

dude if the starter is bad than jumping it wont help....jumping it would work if its a battery/alternator problem.....try turning on your headlights, see if they dim out rly quick or already are dim, that would tell you if its the battery....

the fact that it clicks tells me that it is the starter though b/c the click requires power......try popping the clutch.....roll down a street (hill easier) with the key on II and the clucth down in 1st gear, get up to about 10mph then pop out the clutch and quickly put it back in....this should start the engine if you do it right, it should drive normal, you will be able to drive it this way until you can get the thing fixed...of course this is all contingent upon whether your alternator is good or not, if not it wont last after you start it like this or it may not even start at all....

hoehouseworker

EDIT: Im about to blow up my lude. I took it to advanced auto parts and got my batter and alternator tested, the batter is putting out more than 12 Volts so the batter is good. The alternator is still good also, its putting out 14 volts when the car is running so the batter and alternator aren't my problem. I went back home and took off the starter and got it tested. The old starter was bad, The solenoid is supposed to extract like under 150 amps and it was taking more than 200. so I bought a new starter for $150 to see if that was my problem, I was overly excited to get my car running again. I was wrong . Starter still clicks when I turn the ignition. I am dumbfounded. someone HELP.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude if the starter is bad than jumping it wont help....jumping it would work if its a battery/alternator problem.....try turning on your headlights, see if they dim out rly quick or already are dim, that would tell you if its the battery....</TD></TR></TABLE>

When i turn on the headlights nothing goes dim.

I haven't tried push starting it yet but im sure it would work considering my alternator is good.

I'm thinking its an electrical problem now, how much would it cost to get my car tested?

hoehouseworker

bump

BrokeLude

Sorry dude, but I told ya it wasn't your starter since it starts fine if you jump it.

Sounds like you've got a bad cable or connector between your battery and starter. Is there corrosion around the inside of the battery cable?

SKDRCR

Did the autozone starter come with a new solenoid?

Check your battery connections, see if they're corroded or loose.

Did you check all of the wiring to the starter?

jaydemlude

man i had the same exact problem today at school...i tried cranking the engine over but it doesnt start..it just clicks..i just bought a new battery today too..then what my friend did was turn on the headlights, put the clutch in and turn the ignition..and then it started..whats the deal

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydemlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man i had the same exact problem today at school...i tried cranking the engine over but it doesnt start..it just clicks..i just bought a new battery today too..then what my friend did was turn on the headlights, put the clutch in and turn the ignition..and then it started..whats the deal</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Check your battery connections, see if they're corroded or loose.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

hoehouseworker

battery connections are clean and non-corroded. They were previously loose but I got some of those iron spacers and they are nice and snug now. All the wiring between the battery and the startry looks fine as far as i can tell....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydemlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man i had the same exact problem today at school...i tried cranking the engine over but it doesnt start..it just clicks..i just bought a new battery today too..then what my friend did was turn on the headlights, put the clutch in and turn the ignition..and then it started..whats the deal</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tried this but it did the same thing....just clicks.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did the autozone starter come with a new solenoid?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it did, when I tried starting the car w/ the old starter the solenoid got very warm, when I try to start w/ the new one it stays cold...so I think something had to be wrong with the old one.

My friends cousin owns a local automotive shop, Hes gonna hook me up w/ a cheap diagnostic of the electric system tomorrow or the next day so hopefully that will bring some answers.

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hoehouseworker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My friends cousin owns a local automotive shop, Hes gonna hook me up w/ a cheap diagnostic of the electric system tomorrow or the next day so hopefully that will bring some answers.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Are you throwing any CEL codes?

Shakes

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hoehouseworker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">battery connections are clean and non-corroded. They were previously loose but I got some of those iron spacers and they are nice and snug now. All the wiring between the battery and the startry looks fine as far as i can tell....
</TD></TR></TABLE>

spacers? you couldnt have tightened up the connectors at all otherwise? what kind of battery are you using?

hoehouseworker

Duralast red top, I don't know the exact part number or anything but its the one for my car in the autozone system.

The battery test I did today said the battery was putting out 12.76 volts and its a 12 volt battery.

jaydemlude

how long ago did you get your battery? i have the same one and its doing the same thing.. i thought a fully charged battery only puts out 12.6 volts?

mgags7

.1 of a volt will make little difference.....either way.....check your main relay if it just clicks, for the other guy, i dont know what to tell you, sounds like you have an intermittent problem with the ignition, check the main relay....

someone should FAQ this:

when you have clicking/nothing starting problems its one of these problems:

alternator/wires
battery/wires
starter/wires
main relay

less commonly:
fuel system(pump if anything probably)
dist/spark wires/spark plugs
ignition switch
neutral safety switch/auto trans switch

hoehouseworker

where is the main relay located and how do I check it?

hoehouseworker

bump for help.

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hoehouseworker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where is the main relay located and how do I check it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a pita to get to, underneath the dash near the steering column.

Check the soldering connections for cracks or loose connections.

You can also test it with a volt meter I believe.

You might also want to test your ignitor in the distributor
as well.

hoehouseworker

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's a pita to get to, underneath the dash near the steering column.

Check the soldering connections for cracks or loose connections.

You can also test it with a volt meter I believe.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK but what does the main relay look like? I was under the dash today and there is a plethora of wires and little boxes/fuses.

also, do you know what my alarm brain would look like? Its a cheap alarm called a "Rattler." every time I try to start my car the alarm goes nuts because it doesnt know whats going on. I need to unplug the alarm somehow.

Thanks,
Dylan

hoehouseworker

EDIT: ok when I turn on the headlights when the car is not on, I hear several click sounds coming from near the fuse box/ fuel filter area, then they turn on and are dim at first and slowly get brighter. Then clicking sound also happens when I turn the brights on and off. The car has never done this prior to my problems.
Any ideas?

SKDRCR

It's a box with a connector coming out of it.

About 2x3 in. It should say Mistuba on it.