Which piggyback would you get?
#1
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Which piggyback would you get?
SAFC I or II, VAFC I or II, or Neo?
Car is running rich as hell and also I'd like to play with VTEC engagement (I know SAFC doesn't have that option). I'm looking for best dollar value. I think I've decided on a used VAFC II for ~$150 (from eBay or here).
My setup:
Generic 3" CAI w/ K&N cone filter
Custom 2.5" crush-bent exhaust
Generic (OBX) oval muffler, single 2.5 IN, dual 3.0 OUT
Generic (OBX) resonator
Carsound 2.5 IN, 2.5 OUT Highflow Cat
NGK platinums w/ 10.2mm wires (doesn't matter)
All other upgrades are in the suspension (doesn't matter)
Getting header soon, probably the new custom Tri-Y 4-2-1
Also considering Euro-R IM w/ port-matched TB
Car is a DD with no plans of boost. Car is driven very aggressively (imagine AutoX on city streets).
Reverting back to OBDI with a different ECU and tuning with hondata or similar is not a viable option considering the mods, time, and cost. Any other helpful opinions are welcome. Also, if you have a unit for sale, feel free to pitch me.
Car is running rich as hell and also I'd like to play with VTEC engagement (I know SAFC doesn't have that option). I'm looking for best dollar value. I think I've decided on a used VAFC II for ~$150 (from eBay or here).
My setup:
Generic 3" CAI w/ K&N cone filter
Custom 2.5" crush-bent exhaust
Generic (OBX) oval muffler, single 2.5 IN, dual 3.0 OUT
Generic (OBX) resonator
Carsound 2.5 IN, 2.5 OUT Highflow Cat
NGK platinums w/ 10.2mm wires (doesn't matter)
All other upgrades are in the suspension (doesn't matter)
Getting header soon, probably the new custom Tri-Y 4-2-1
Also considering Euro-R IM w/ port-matched TB
Car is a DD with no plans of boost. Car is driven very aggressively (imagine AutoX on city streets).
Reverting back to OBDI with a different ECU and tuning with hondata or similar is not a viable option considering the mods, time, and cost. Any other helpful opinions are welcome. Also, if you have a unit for sale, feel free to pitch me.
#3
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Re: Which piggyback would you get?
are you planning on playing with this stuff your self or having a professional with a dyno do it? My thought has always been, whatever your local guy likes... run that. Otherwise if this is just for kicks I liked the VAFC II...
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Re: Which piggyback would you get?
I bet he did. Do you know how a vafc works? Do you know how it adds fuel or changes vtec engagement? Did you know that it locks your air/fuel and ignition tables together?
they are hacks. if you choose to get one and the motor goes i wouldnt blame it on anything but that stupid thing.
but most of your mods dont do much for power anyway so youll probably be ok until you put some good parts on it.
its cheaper to do it right the first time instead of doing it wrong the first time then redoing it.
if you plan on adding a header and intake manifold you are really going to want some tuning software...not a piggyback.
they are hacks. if you choose to get one and the motor goes i wouldnt blame it on anything but that stupid thing.
but most of your mods dont do much for power anyway so youll probably be ok until you put some good parts on it.
its cheaper to do it right the first time instead of doing it wrong the first time then redoing it.
if you plan on adding a header and intake manifold you are really going to want some tuning software...not a piggyback.
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Re: Which piggyback would you get?
Considering I've seen VAFC-II's for under $100, I would think this best fits what the OP is looking for. And assuming the OP wants to keep ATTS, reverting to OBD1 is not an option, which eliminates Hondata, chips, standalone, etc. Other viable options include eManage and eManage Ultimate, but these are considerably more expensive. SAFC seems like a waste when VAFC is probably not that much more. The big question for me (which I'm assuming is what the OP is after) is what the big differences are between the VAFC-I, VAFC-II, and the Neo.
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Re: Which piggyback would you get?
just get a K20 + Kpro, thats OBD2 compliant !
but seriously, if you're looking for more power out of an H22 consider selling the SH and buying a base. It makes it much easier when you're OBD1'd
as for right now the mods you listed are fine without a VAFC. If anything the VAFC would hurt your performance, honda made the transition pretty safe IMO and with those mods it wouldn't be that crucial.
for your build I would suggest a lightweight flywheel and a more aggressive clutch setup. that would probably equate to a better bang/buck than that exhaust you got or some of the other things you've mentioned.
but seriously, if you're looking for more power out of an H22 consider selling the SH and buying a base. It makes it much easier when you're OBD1'd
as for right now the mods you listed are fine without a VAFC. If anything the VAFC would hurt your performance, honda made the transition pretty safe IMO and with those mods it wouldn't be that crucial.
for your build I would suggest a lightweight flywheel and a more aggressive clutch setup. that would probably equate to a better bang/buck than that exhaust you got or some of the other things you've mentioned.
#9
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Re: Which piggyback would you get?
Considering I've seen VAFC-II's for under $100, I would think this best fits what the OP is looking for. And assuming the OP wants to keep ATTS, reverting to OBD1 is not an option, which eliminates Hondata, chips, standalone, etc. The big question for me (which I'm assuming is what the OP is after) is what the big differences are between the VAFC-I, VAFC-II, and the Neo.
but seriously, if you're looking for more power out of an H22 consider selling the SH and buying a base. It makes it much easier when you're OBD1'd
as for right now the mods you listed are fine without a VAFC. If anything the VAFC would hurt your performance, honda made the transition pretty safe IMO and with those mods it wouldn't be that crucial.
for your build I would suggest a lightweight flywheel and a more aggressive clutch setup. that would probably equate to a better bang/buck than that exhaust you got or some of the other things you've mentioned.
as for right now the mods you listed are fine without a VAFC. If anything the VAFC would hurt your performance, honda made the transition pretty safe IMO and with those mods it wouldn't be that crucial.
for your build I would suggest a lightweight flywheel and a more aggressive clutch setup. that would probably equate to a better bang/buck than that exhaust you got or some of the other things you've mentioned.
However, the clutch/flywheel combo are coming soon along with lighter wheels.
This isn't a "race" car, it's a quick car.
#10
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Re: Which piggyback would you get?
i'm continuing to understand more and more that SH people are different and nobody really gets us.
#11
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Re: Which piggyback would you get?
http://www.phearable.net
This is where I got my chipped ECU worth the money and a great company, input what your mods and they will send it with a base tune. Then you can go from there. Out of the box mine worked great.
This is where I got my chipped ECU worth the money and a great company, input what your mods and they will send it with a base tune. Then you can go from there. Out of the box mine worked great.
#12
Re: Which piggyback would you get?
Hear you loud and clear. I wouldn't mind leaning out my SH... not because I need to, but because it will be a nice thing to do for my baby. Same reason I've spent a week relocating the battery to the trunk. My friends still don't understand why.
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