sleepyH22

just removed the 5spd gas brake and clutch assemblies outta my parts car...

HOW DO U REPLACE ONLY THE brake pedal on the auto car? my brake and gas pedals are spot welded together on both 5spd and auto pedals...

i need to know this nowww

fastshift

ive done one on my 97 accord and this should work on prelude as well.

i posted same thing on another forum but i didn't get any respond or w/e lol

anyway here is the link

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2253706

bboixtc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepyH22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just removed the 5spd gas brake and clutch assemblies outta my parts car...

HOW DO U REPLACE ONLY THE brake pedal on the auto car? my brake and gas pedals are spot welded together on both 5spd and auto pedals...

i need to know this nowww</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even though I took out the entire assembly and did it the hard way, I realized I could've taken the brake pedal itself out by removing the two 14mm? bolts that hold the brake pedal in place and un do the spring.

bboixtc

did you guys also remove the TCM (gold box on the passenger side on the Right side of the ECU)????

pprowler6

yea i did

sleepyH22

i removed it too...

just an update for you guys... got my 5spd shifter assembly installed with 4bidden SS. Also installed 5spd shift cables. Got my 2 new axles. I ended up realizing all i had to do was swap the pedal like shown above... so i did that and installed all the clutch master cyl, and pedal assembly...went ahead and did the jumper wire for the auto shifter plug.

So tomorow morning at 8 30am... i gotta go and bolt my trans back to my h22 because i had a split tranny case i changed it to a good one within a hour. *keep in mind i've done hondas transmissions ALOT* lol.....
After i get the h22 and 5spd M2S4 trans bolted together i will do my measurements and drill my 1/2" hole on the trans mount side, proceed to install h22/5spd swap, plug it all in, stick the axles in, install p13 ecu...and start 'er up!!!! w00h00 i am so drunk but i am doing this swap pretty quick i think. I had the h22 5spd outta my civic on sunday afternoon. took the h23/auto out of the prelude on monday, tuesday the prelude got fully swapped to 5spd parts. and now wednesday i will have it running..so i think thats pretty damn good imo.

sleepyH22

i am also installing Energy suspension mount inserts (red)....being i cant afford the esp mount kit now i guess they'll have to do for now...anyone have any luck with these???

bboixtc

I was cleaning/sanding the tranny down since it looked terrible and noticed this:



is that normal? or is supposed to look like this: (obviously I'm pulling the rubber back to show)

bboixtc

Anyway, I was told that boot is fine.

On the other hand... I used a ball joint separator, "pickle fork" and when the joint came out, so did a bunch of grease from the boot but not alot. The Boot isn't torn, and the joint still moves like a joy stick. Should I worry? Or are they still fine?

bboixtc

up for answers

pprowler6

i woudlnt worry about it too much ive been driving on torn ball joints for well over a year now haven't had problems with it although i am going to replace them soon. It might cause some vibrations though, because my car feels like its gonna shake into pieces while accelerating.

bboixtc

Do you guys think 18 gauge wire is fine for the reverse lights? lol Just wondering..

pprowler6

yea haha should be fine. i might have used 20 i forget

bboixtc

Would any of you guys manual or auto to manual swap people mind taking a shot of the engine bay? Preferably in the area where the shift cables are? I just want to make sure I ran it correctly and that it doesn't interfere with some hoses from the intake manifold when I put it back on.

pprowler6

i dont have my camera with me but i can try and explain it. looking down on the engine the shifter cables are supposed to come up on the right side of the rear engine mount then come around and hook up to there proper places. It was a major pain in the *** for me to hook these up it seemed like the cables were too short like they needed to be a quarter inch longer but i eventually squeezed them on there. hope that helps

bboixtc

Ok, but they go underneath the engine harness and ALL those hoses right. I mounted the bracket that was on the cables to the holes that were already on the frame of the car.

Another question I have is, when I was installing the pressure plate, it would not sit flush even though I lined up the three holes. It looks like the clutch is getting in the way even though I put it on the right way with the alignment tool. When I tried to bolt it down with the pressure plate bolts, the heads on one of them broke off while I was torquing it down to 19 ft/lbs.

Also the castle nut keeps spinnging the bolt on the tie tod? The arm that controls the steering for the wheel. And the other one has a alot of grease that came out. Should I just buy these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW


Modified by bboixtc at 10:11 AM 3/24/2008

bboixtc

My car won't start after this conversion. It's getting fuel, it cranks but won't turn over. It's not the main relay, distributor, or the starter. I didn't remove anything from the bay other than the intake manifold. Does anyone have any ideas? I posted a thread about this, but I figured I'd ask you guys since I'm having this problem after I did the conversion.

pprowler6

clutch swtich wired up correctly?

bboixtc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pprowler6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clutch swtich wired up correctly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did what you said and didn't wire it at all. I looped the wires on the brown connector. But it gets spark and everything. It just doesn't turn over.

LukieLuc

The clutch switch wouldn't let the car crank, so that isn't the problem

bboixtc

ANNNNNNNNNYYYYYYONNNNEEEEE????

I don't need the TCM, Auto cruise box, or interlock... those I took out. So those shouldn't interfere with the car turning over right?

mgags7

you connect the ground back to the transmission?

bboixtc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you connect the ground back to the transmission?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes. but even if i didn't, it wouldn't be cranking though like it is now. It just won't turn over.

mgags7

It will crank without that ground and not start. Happened to old bonehead yours truly once.

I can't really think of anything else that would specifically just let the thing crank around all day and not catch, I think you boogered something up with something else.

Have you made sure you have fuel pressure and that your injectors are actually firing? Any CELs?

bboixtc

interesting... I'll check my grounds again thanks. i haven't checked for CEL's yet mainly cause my dash is still d/c. I didn't put it back together yet because I still need to run the reverse wires from the bay into the car, and I can't figure out where the the wires lead to from the firewall (behind the fusebox). I also know I'll get a code for my:

knock sensor
IAB?
Oil Pressure (the plug below the oil filter)