kraetos

Indeed,

prelittlelude

on that picture above where you mentioned that plug, if you look in my f22 thread i did adapt the h oil cooler to the f block, it wasn't hard at all.

let us know how the exhaust is.. can't wait for the updated dyno

Sam1am26

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on that picture above where you mentioned that plug, if you look in my f22 thread i did adapt the h oil cooler to the f block, it wasn't hard at all.

let us know how the exhaust is.. can't wait for the updated dyno</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that is wierd that the F23a5 doesn't have that... My F23a1 has that port and that is where i tapped my oil feed line for the turbo...

SUB-0 H23

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The new one is a 2.5" (all the way through) stainless steel mandrel bent header-back with 22" resonator and magnaflow 8x5x14" muffler.

I will withhold the vendor's name in case the quality is less than I expect. If I am not happy I'll get in contact with the vendor and let him have a chance to rectify it. The exhaust is coming from a reputable person here and I am not sure what to expect. So I will see what I get and then if I am satisfied I will plaster his name all over... sound good?

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

let us know if it is any good... because right now im looking for a good cat-back...

PirateMcFred

Here's a quick teaser. Sorry for the crappy pictures but my good camera quit:



I got my exhaust today. Right off hand I am pleased but I have yet to really put it on the car so fitment will be the true test. It is 16 gauge stainless steel. It is AWEFULLY thick and subsequently heavy. I asked if could do the kit with 18 gauge but I guess it was not an option.

SUB, I thought you had an exhaust. It was short with a glasspack or something...

Pirate

SUB-0 H23

that thing is garbage ...

i dyno'd the lude and it only made 148/149 ...
i got worried and i re-dyno'd w/ the stock ex. and it made ~160/155 ...

so yeah, it was a waste of money and time... so that is why im looking for a proven exh. sys.

prelittlelude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a quick teaser. Sorry for the crappy pictures but my good camera quit:



I got my exhaust today. Right off hand I am pleased but I have yet to really put it on the car so fitment will be the true test. It is 16 gauge stainless steel. It is AWEFULLY thick and subsequently heavy. I asked if could do the kit with 18 gauge but I guess it was not an option.

SUB, I thought you had an exhaust. It was short with a glasspack or something...

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

looks pretty nice, im runing the 3 inch es oval.. i like it.. also ill go ahead and take that pile of ECU's on the ground

PirateMcFred

Good eye, Tom. I forgot that those were in there. Anyway, I will see what I can get done this week on the header. I have to do the DC collector mod before I can get the rest of the system on since I will have to cut the pipe to length and then fit the hangers.

Pirate

PirateMcFred

A small update for not so great news (for the impatient at least). My hook-up (co-worker) that I plan on bribing to TIG weld my exhaust together is booked for about a week and a half. So I will not be able to make real progress on the exhaust system for about that amount of time. In addition to that I have to make a mating flange for the articulating donut gasket ala B-series style. The ones I got were made in Cañada, have a sloppy fit and are mild steel not stainless. My POS DC is actually a stainless steel version so I thought it'd be nice to keep it SS all the way. Once I get the
header fabbed up then I will cut the rest of the system and commence welding/installation.

Pirate

kleankord

any updates?

PirateMcFred

Oh, haha right I forgot to update. It now looks like I will be getting it all welded in at the most a week and a half and dyno-tuned shortly thereafter. I found someone that will TIG weld it for free so I am inclined to be patient. I got waylayed with my jobs and I will be doing a transmission swap in the next couple of days. Sorry that this is going so slow. It is just never easy it seems.

Pirate

high_revs

let us know asap

hondaaccord2.2

so have you ever done anything with your intake manifold? and you didnt ever touch the head did you? did you ever put the balance shaft belt back on?

PirateMcFred

Stock ports, stock TB and manifold. I only modified the combustion chambers to acomodate the H22 pistons. If you bought and installed custom pistons this would not be a problem. Balance shaft belt is still off. Though I am considering putting it back on after final tuning for driver comfort.

Pirate

PirateMcFred

So last Friday my timing belt jumped a bunch of teeth. It happened at about 2000 rpm so the damage appears to be minimal. The intake valves are all bent. But upon dissassembly I noticed a couple other problems. The valve guides are really worn (to be expected after 170,000 miles), which led to burnt exhaust valves and the valve seats might need to be fixed. So I am shopping around for some new valves. They will probably be aftermarket since the OEM ones are about $20 a piece. For the same price I should be able to get some really nice aftermarket ones that will give me better flow, give me my compression back and make more power. So I have a setback that I need to deal with quickly.

The interesting thing is that the guides and burnt exhaust valves could have been a problem when I first built the G23 so I could have been making 180whp on a head in desparate need of an overhaul. Up until the bent valves the car pulled pretty hard and I had pretty decent compression test results.

What made my timing skip teeth was a balance shaft tensioning spring fell off somehow and fell between the lower timing gear and the belt. Why it happened now and not in the previous 10000 miles I don't know. I intend to repair the head, reassemble the G23 nonVTEC, and see the build to completion. After a rebuild I think that 200whp will be even more possible.

Here are some more pictures
block


piston (the tiny shiney bit in the valve pocket is where the intake valve hit)


One of the intake valves (you can see where it hit):


All torn down:




The culprit (used to be number 12 in the parts diagram below):



Pirate

SUB-0 H23

stupid spring ... im glad you are going to rebuild the g23

The_Head

Happy to see it wasn't that bad. Get a p/p done on the head too maybe?

190 wtq?? Wouldn't that be nice!

PirateMcFred

Good news guys. I might be going All-motor F-series (sale pending). Who needs H-series heads anyway? After looking at the bottom line it will cost me quite a bit of money to get the H23 head back into a relaible condition that I would feel comfortable swapping onto my block. I think I am going to retire the H23 head. BUT I might be upgrading to a JDM DOHC F22B head. I happened to find one (without the rest of the block attached) in good condition and that is good for a number of reasons:

Lower miles in general.
not-bent valves
Less wear on the rocker arms
Newer seals/journals
Better oil return alignment in the head for F-block attachment
Far cheaper than the rebuilt H23 head.

I do hope that the valves are the same size. There is potential that they are smaller due to the difference in the bore size between the H-series and the F-series. I just have to actually purchase it and get it shipped to me. We will see. Otherwise I may have to swap the H22 back in until "Plan-C" can be implemented.

Pirate

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

Man, I can't wait to see the numbers the new build produces. I've got my $5 ready to PayPal you again.

It's weird, most people go from the F-series, to the H series. You are going backwards.

SteveoBA8

Back to the ol Vtak for a while, that sucks that spring came off( could this be because of too much vibration-just a thought). You the man Pirate, keep us updated.

The_Head

ummm...

I thought the F22B used the same head as the H23A, or was it the crank?

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummm...

I thought the F22B used the same head as the H23A, or was it the crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It should be the same head and crank. The only difference is the block and the bore size (Just like the USDM F22 Accord block specs).

SUB-0 H23

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good news guys. I might be going All-motor F-series (sale pending). Who needs H-series heads anyway?
Pirate </TD></TR></TABLE>

wait but it won't be a G23 anymore LOL.... you know i thought that h23 and f22b had the same head, i guess i was wrong... good luck pirate

hondaaccord2.2

so how much for your cams and valve springs for the H23?

PirateMcFred

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got my $5 ready to PayPal you again... most people go from the F-series, to the H series. You are going backwards. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll take all the support I can get. So far I have had a BAD week. And what can I say? I like to try to be different.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SteveoBA8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back to the ol Vtak for a while, that sucks that spring came off( could this be because of too much vibration-just a thought). You the man Pirate, keep us updated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah I think that it my all motor F-series (lol) will be up and running pretty soon. *crosses fingers* Yes vibration could have been a cause but why now and not in the last 10000 miles? For future projects I am going to drill all the nuts and bolts and saftey wire the living expletive out of everything that can come loose.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought the F22B used the same head as the H23A, or was it the crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is almost the same head to my knowledge. I know for a fact that the driver's side oil return passages match the F22/F23 block and won't on the H-series blocks. So with the F22B head I won't have to fill any voids with Hondabond.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SUB-0 H23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wait but it won't be a G23 anymore LOL.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It could be a G-series still, sort of. It will have an H23A1 intake manifold and TB, H23A1 header, H23 cams/springs/retainers, H23 transmission, H22A4 Pistons, H22A1 alternator and crank pulley, H22A1 OBD1 345cc/min injectors, F22B head, F23A5 block/crank/rods, F22A1 water pipe and engine mount, OBD1 D15Z1 Civic VX ECU modified to run IABs, chipped with an OBD1 Acura Integra GSR P72 .bin file. Ah nevermind. There are so many different car parts in my Poor Prelude I think I will just call it a Chimera. Frankenstein does not really encompass the gravity of the situation

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaaccord2.2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how much for your cams and valve springs for the H23?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which ones? The OEM H23 cams and springs or my Crower/RM set? I would sell the stock ones for cheap if I land this F22 head.

Anyway, I am looking forward to comparing the H23 and F22 heads. I have always wondered why the 2 engines are both rated at 160hp.

Pirate