So I decided to take some pics since I pulled these out the other day and couldnt find any write-ups w/ pics on how to do this. All in all it wasnt that hard (w/ a block out of the car) but sometime its just nice to see pics. BTW my helms was worthless IMO. Perhaps we can this stickie this to the FAQ's as well.
BTW my coochie hurts and I need a 56k beware cause I dont got DSL..lol..j/k
10mm and 12mm socket
Flat tip screwdriver
Balance Elim. Kit
So heres what were workin to today
First you'll need to remove the crank pully, then this sprocket will be on the shaft, but Im not gonna put it back on just for the pic. I think removing this part was the hardest part of the job..
First is the front balancer. If you look down youll see a hole.
I dropped a screw driver in the hole to keep it from rotating while I loosened the bolt holding the pulley on..
Then the pulley just comes off real easy
Then I removed the bolts around the shaft and the auto tensioner as well
On to the rear balancer. Remove the 2 bolts and one nut
And the housing should come off with the tap of a hammer or pryed w/ a flat tip to look like this
So here we are so far(plus the crank sprocket), we'll come back to the rear shaft pulley is a few. Remove the bolts that hold the oil pump to the block. Should be 4 bolts or so.
Start prying around the housing to free the pump. Just work around it till it pops loose. Remeber as well that the crank/oil pump sprocket is keeping the housing on there tight. Initially I used my screwdriver to pry the sprocket off some. I the stopped and cussed a few chioce words at my Japper ancestors and used the backside of a hammer to pry some more till it was almost at the end.
Now before you get the sprocket totally off you'll need to pull this metal guide out w/ a pair of pliers. If you dont...
You wont be able to get this washer past it as you pull the oil pump off.
With that done we should be able to pull the pump off at least an inch or so. Since we can were gonna pull the rear pulley off similar to the front, only the hole is between the pump and block.
*EDIT* There is actually a bolt to the right on the backside of the block that allows access to the hole in the shaft, but I didnt know till later on. So you can actually remove the pully before prying the housing.
And off it comes
Now we can pull the pump off. If you have yet to remove the lower sprocket fully I found the pump to be a good tool to yank forward and help knock it off the crank. How good that is for the pump I dont know, but it worked.
Now we have acess to the shafts. Theres 2 bolt holding the front shaft in and nothin holding the rear one on.
"Free at last, free at last" Just pull them out
The rear is on the right and front on the left, and now you done.
This took just shy of an hour and prolly would be a bit tougher in the car. Hopefully I dont need to remind you that you should've bought the kit to plug everything up unless your a true DIY'r. Hope this helps and let any posting begin. If I forgot something lemme know.
All right lets finish this **** off. I finally got a half day off from my 7 day a week jobs.
Okay so you gotta have the balance shaft elim. kit to do this obviously. Now youre gonna need a press of some sort. If you lucky like me to have a neighbor/landlord that just so happens to be a blacksmith that has all the tools in the world you just might have one of these in the garage. Its a press, but doesnt require electricy or air.
First I started w/ the oil pump and the balance shaft plugs. Like so..
Press in the left one
Press in the right
They recommend using loctite sleeve retainer if pressing these plugs into a used oil pump. Then you put on the bling blingin' rear balance shaft gearcase cover and the pump plugs are done.
Now onto the girdle. The ones circled in red need to be removed. Remove the dowel pins sticking out w/ a pair of vise grips. Itll sandwich a bit, but thats okay and twist it till it comes out.
On a side note if your a dumbass like I was, I was all excited about getting going on the kit that I didnt remove the main caps and pulled the first dowel outta the cap and found the plugs didnt fit. That is why. Nick @ kaizen was nice enough t assist me through my own mental retardation...lol...
So remove the one dowel on top and the 3 on the bottom.. Heres they are only to be replaced..
The big one of the 4 goes in location "C" (see girdle pic) The other 3 are in the "D" spot...hmmm to bad there isnt a "G"spot in this install...lol...
So now we press those in
Till theyre all in like so..
Now plug "C" should be pressed in so that no more than .360" is protruding and "D" is no more than .405" out so that the main caps can seat properly. So I measure..
And its "money Mikey, your so f'n money"
Then I tapped the main caps back on to make sure everything is flush and pressed in far enough
See no gaps in seating
Lastly we need to block an oil passage in the block that runs to one of the shafts.
The top center hole. For reference the back of the block is at the top of the pic and flywheel would be to the right.
So you go in w/ a 11/32 drill bit into the hole. Youre really just reaming the whole out IMO not tearin through mass amounts of metal. Drill till you get to the back of the bearing..
Then you bust out the supplied tap..and yes it really is shiny as excalibur..
You use a 12pt. 10mm socket and tap the hole you just drilled enough to get the supplied plug in. Sealent recommended.
Now you done. Overall this is pretty easy install w/ the block out. You could probably do this w/ the block in, but Im not sure if you could get the shafts out. Difficulty wise its more of a PITA to raise my car up a few inches for winter than it was to do this kit.
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