preludesarefun

I have a 94 Prelude VTEC with an H22a1 that has a loss of power. I just bought the car a week ago. When I first started driving the car the engine was running really good. There is no CEL on. I don't know what it is. I don't know if it is the timing. It is weird, because sometimes it will get the power back and then just lose it again. I can definitely tell it has a loss of power, its not running like an H22 should. Anyways, I replaced the spark plugs and changed the oil. I don't know if there is a bad connection. I took the negative terminal off the battery to change the fuel filter but I had to put the fuel filter back on because the bolt didn't fit the new one. I took the AEM air intake off and put it back on. I tightened the spark plugs to the right torque specs also. I don't know what is causing this. What should I check?

jdm_rb20

Can you describe the power loss/conditions more clearly. My only guess so far would be a faulty sparkplug wire. Only because it happened to me before. while it is having power loss, let it idle and remove/reconnect each spark plug wire. If you don't notice a change in idle while a plug wire is removed, that usually means that that spark plug wasn't firing to begin with.

It's a free "test" so hopefully it helps a little.

preludesarefun

I explained it the best I can, I don't know how else to explain it. It just doesn't have the same power as it should. Its almost like it gains and loses torque and hp at different times. I'll shift from 1st to 2nd at 3k or 4k rpm's and it doesn't pull like it should, it doesnt have the torque or horsepower that it should. It's almost like its just bogging down. I really don't know how else to explain it. What are the possibilities ? What else should I check for besides the spark plug wires?

preludesarefun

Anyone????

preludesarefun

Ok, I checked the spark plug wires like you told me to and each time I checked them they all seemed to be working because when I took them out I noticed a difference in engine idle so I'm guessing they are working properly but I'm going to go ahead and replace the spark plug wires anyways because I don't know exactly how great they are. Sometimes when I start the car up though I think there is a miss fire. It sounds like there may be something wrong with the exhaust, it still has a stock exhaust but it feels like the exhaust has a lot of resistance, almost like the exhaust has too much to push out or something. I don't know though. I really wish I could get an expert opinion. This is my daily driver and I don't want to keep driving it when I could potentially be harming the engine in the process if there is something wrong with it. I'm definitely sure it is bogging down, has a loss of power though. I know for a fact it ran stronger than this when I first got it. Its performing worse than an H23 and its an H22a1. Please someone help me. Thanks.

jgonzbb1

Any idea what condition the clutch is in. Maybe its slipping. Do you smell anything like burnt clutch???

preludesarefun

I'm not sure what condition the clutch is in but I just ran it kinda hard a little bit ago to test it and I did smell something. It kind of smells like a burnt clutch though... is it fuel??? Is my fuel pump bad.. not supplying the correct proficiency of fuel ? I know the distributor has to be working along with the spark plugs and wires... I don't know what it could be ...I did smell something like the clutch possibly when I ran it hard.

preludesarefun

I'm open to hear all opinions. It could be something I'm missing obviously. Just start telling me what I should check, re read everything on this post so you can understand better... just tell me what you think I should check because I don't know what to check or how to check stuff. I'm pretty new at working on hondas.

I'm open to all suggestions. Thanks.

preludesarefun

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preludesarefun

????? ..?...? ? (big space) ? anyone know?

jdm_rb20

I do not mean ANY (not a single bit) offense by this, but it seems like you are kinda new to working on cars in general. The same principles apply between all cars. If you have spark, then yeah, you can check your fuel. You will need some sort of gauge. Anyone know honda's well enough to remember if there is a schraeder valve?

As for the exhaust,...hmmm...an exhaust leak anywhere can affect performance because it can change the AFR at the o2 sensor. Then the ecu will change fuel based on incorrect o2 readings...(general theory).

I believe you said that you were trying to change your fuel filter the other day?? Is it leaking (losing fuel pressure)? Obviously, it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and change it (if you can afford it) just so you can rule that out.

I think most of us are hobbyists that like to help, but please remember that we probably have jobs/lives/etc. Excessive requests for a reply from us will not get us home to our computer any faster (please take no offense). Google is a good resource if you want quick answers; search for: h22 power loss....it's bound to give you dozens of suggestions/stories.

--TJ

preludesarefun

Yeah I know I just figured I'd get someones attention. I did Google this and didn't find out a whole lot. The fuel filter isn't leaking. I realize that people have jobs lol... I'm just trying to figure this out so I don't further damage it and then have to end up buying yet another honda.... I took a flight and a taxi cab to get this prelude.

jdm_rb20

^^giggling...

anyway...if your clutch is slipping, your rpms will rise even though your speed isn't accelerating appropriately. i.e. Second gear...floor it...if you hit 6500rpm and you are doing, say 40 mph instead of the usual 55mph...that means your clutch is slipping. (Those numbers are guessed. You know what speed it "used to do" at redline 2nd gear. See what speed it does now. You can try any gear, but 2nd gear is the easiest to highway-test.

Sorry for the delay. I just got finished mowing the front yard, fixing the icemaker, and helping set the dinner table. figured I would look for your reply before I ate..lol :p

--TJ

preludesarefun

Lol, my bad I didn't mean is it fuel, as in what I smelt what I meant was can fuel possibly be the cause of this... like the fuel pump for example. I know I made it sound like I asked if it was fuel that I was smelling. I did take the rpms up and I can smell something though, I think the clutch is slipping probably because everything else seems to be fine. Damn this sucks because I have to work tomorrow and I don't have the money to fix the clutch right now. Thanks for the help man I'll check it out. Thanks for putting a hold on your life to answer my question. J/k... actually... wait ya.. thanks. lol

jdm_rb20

as you stated earlier, you notice a loss of power when shifting normally around 4k rpm? If your clutch is slipping under normal driving, it should be EASY for you to notice when you are driving it hard.

The harder you drive, the more it usually slips if your clutch is slipping. If you don't see a DIRECT lack of speed acceleration YET the rpm's still rise normally...don't spend a penny on your clutch.

If your "loss of power" is also seen by the rpms rising SLOWLY, then the problem is NOT your clutch.

Again, it is only the clutch if: The rpm's rise normally (or faster) but acceleration doesn't match the rpm's.

--TJ

aznfreakyguy

does it have loss of power right after the car starts, or after its been driven for awhile? have you checked the knock sensor? maybe its not screwed in all the way and is pulling timing. it wont throw a CEL if its fluctuating enough to make the ecu think its still working but will pull timing every once in awhile. dont ask me how i know

97accordbuildlx

u could smell a burned clutch if u know it. and if its a clutch you see the rpms going up and the hp sluggishly gong up. i honestly dont know what else to say maybe you fell for the old h22vtec superpower superfast hype because theyre relatively uppity but not what peolpe amke them out to be. especially in stock heavier preludes.

jdm_rb20

I dunno...he said it ran alot better when he first got it a week ago.

Also, az^^ made me think, NOT counting the absence of vtec: does it run good when you first crank it up from a cold dead start?? If it runs good UNTIL it warms up, that is a sign that a sensor is probably indeed contributing to the issue in some way. this is because the car is run in open loop until it reaches operating temperature (which means that it is NOT governed by the sensors). After operating temperature, it begins to run in closed-loop and is very susceptible to sensor issues.

i.e. I believe I said earlier that an exhaust leak can cause improper AFR readings at the o2 sensor...etc etc...but that is just one example of how closed loop causes issues.

preludesarefun

Actually as a matter of fact.. usually when I first start the engine up it does this. I have a loss of power when I first start the engine up except for one occasion... today.. I started it up, and it felt like it had the hp and torque that it had when I first bought it... but when I drove for a little bit and warmed it up it lost power again. I could definitely smell something, I'm sure it was the clutch, and yes, the rpm's rise but the horsepower doesn't or torque. It just slowly and slowly bogs up to speed. When I took it up to 5k or 6k rpms in first or 2nd gear I could definitely smell something though and like you said the rpms were rising but my horsepower wasn't and there was also a loss of torque too. I'm guessing its the clutch, I just got my taxes back and I ordered a new clutch and spark plug wires... so I'm going to replace them anyways...I guess once I replace those hopefully it will run like it should, if not... then.. well I am just narrowing it down to the problem thats causing this, but I do think you are right and I think its probably the clutch.. I didn't know this, but now I do. Thank you.. I'll check it out.. be sure to keep an eye on my post. Thanks again, everyone.

jdm_rb20

I have been referring to your actual SPEED rising....not hp or tq. If your rpm's rise but your SPEED (the physical number of MPH) doesn't follow a somewhat linear pattern with the rpms.

Linear = directly related.

LIGHT THROTTLE:
rpms go up slow = speed goes up slow

HEAVY THROTTLE (floor it):
rpms go up fast = speed goes up fast



If your clutch is bad, your rpms go up faster than your MPH....i.e. If you clutch goes out completely, then you can usually redline every gear, all the way to 5th gear, but your car will never move an INCH. That is because your engine is revving, but your clutch just IS NOT grabbing/moving the transmission.

I hope this has cleared it up a little bit. A slipping clutch is not letting the RPM's move the transmission AS MUCH AS IT SHOULD.

btw, I hope you went stage 1 or 2 clutch. Street is weak grip and stage 3 is a pain if the car is your daily.

--TJ

sn000t

Might be an O2 sensor.

97accordbuildlx

i hope you didnt order a cheapo clutch or youll have the same problem in about 2 months. oem is honeslt ybest unless u go with an expensive brand

preludesarefun

Yes, my rpm's rise but my speed doesn't. Sorry. Thanks for clearing that up. I don't think i bought a cheap clutch, it is aftermarket I believe. I forgot which kind I bought. Thanks, again... I'll check on the O2 sensor also.

mherkamp

I know everyone hates on "cheap" parts, but I have had a "F1" branded stage 2 carbon-kevlar clutch and 11lb chromoly flywheel for 3 years and I haven't had any trouble with it. I even abused it in the beginning because I had master cylinder problems and it slipped a bunch. I think ACT makes a good clutch, along with the comp clutch twin disk varieties.
GL
Mike

preludesarefun

I think I bought an ACT clutch. Any aftermarket clutch should last for a good while though I'm sure. I'm hoping it will be here pretty soon, because I need to get this clutch on asap.