jonnyshatter

kinda hard to explain. it only does this when warmed up. basically if im in neutral and pump my brakes, the idle jumps (as it should) and then comes back down and stalls. it will also stall when coming to a stop and i pull it out of gear, the rpms just drop and the idle doesnt catch. it runs great otherwise, and when it stalls i can start it back up right away and its fine til it stalls again.

h22a1 block w/ h22a head 4th gen.

prior to this the timing belt tensioner went out and bent valves.
swapped in the h22a head (originally had the stock h22a1 head), redid the valves on it with new ones, new head gasket set, tbelt, manual tensioner conversion, crank pulley, and balance belt.

to the best of my knowledge- vac lines are proper, no leaks. fitv and iacv are functioning properly, cuz when i plug the bottom TB hole the idle drops (fitv), and when i plug the top (iacv) it dies... like it should IIRC.

did ignition timing, new plugs (properly gapped), new wires. adjusted idle correctly too. also, someone said valve adjustment maybe?

brake booster is working i believe, cuz when i hold the brakes down and then start the car the pedal slowly drops like it should.

didnt have this problem before i did the rebuild. so im lost.

jonnyshatter

forgot to mention. no cels

motoxxxman

I'd say do a valve lash adjustment. rebuilt top ends go out of adjustment pretty quick in the first 1000 miles or so. I usually have to adjust mine 2 or 3 times in the first 1000 miles when the head is completely rebuilt/reconditioned.

after you do the adjustment, check/adjust idle and ignition timing again just to be sure.

jonnyshatter

Would bad valve lash really cause it to stall out like that though? It runs and drives and idles perfectly fine otherwise.

What tools are needed and wheres the best place to get them?

gonna recheck for vacuum leaks with propane tomorrow just to be 100%. Im just confused cuz it never did this before the rebuild, and head aside, its all the same parts or even newer ones. Dont get how something like this just "happens"

nemesis25

Egr or fuel related.

holmesnmanny

Take the two bolts off the iacv and gently pull it back and see if the metal filter screen is clogged with soot. If that checks out as clean I would swap out the oxygen sensor with only a Denso unit if it hasn't been replaced in over 50k or so. The oxygen sensor seems to be stressed most when braking.

jonnyshatter

gonna replace TPS sensor tomorrow/friday cuz i wiggled it and it didnt stall from pumping the brake. it might be going out.

jonnyshatter

IACV is clean. tried a different one also

motoxxxman

it can yes, if any of them are too tight. only tools you need are a 12mm box wrench, small flathead screwdriver, feeler gauges, proper socket for turning the crank at the crank pulley bolt, and 10mm socket to remove the valve cover.

holmesnmanny

swap out the oxygen sensor with a Denso..the bosch's suck for hondas don't use them

motoxxxman

better yet, if you get a new o2 sensor get NTK (made by NGK), it is oem, and it is the most accurate and the most reliable

holmesnmanny

While NTK/NGK may make oxygen sensors for some Hondas, Denso is the manufacturer for h22a1's. It says so everywhere. Even so, I wouldn't think buying NTK/NGK would result in any issues compared to Bosch for that matter.

via rockauto DENSO Part # 2344011 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} OE Style One of our most popular parts
Upstream; VTEC Model; DENSO is the OE Manufacturer

warrenbee

I've had this issue twice before, I did however have a CEL. Mine only stalled completely a couple times, usually rpms would dip extremely low and nearly stall. Took it into Honda both times and got a valve adjustment. CEL remained for a day or two, then turned off and ran like a dream. Good luck.

youngpac99

My vote would be to do a valve adjustment. I had a similar problem with my (98 base) lude a few months back, except it wouldn't make it to a full on STALL, it would just dip really really low when coming to a stop or just pumping the brakes, to the point where it felt like it was on the brink of stall but then it would catch it self. If I remember correctly, valve adjustments (well for honda engines atleast) are a standard maintenance protocol in the service manual for like every 30k or so (I could be off by +/-10k), but either way, adjusting them is mainly done to help our cars idle better since this is really where you would notice the adjustment the most, its not meant to necessarily increase power as some may think, but just to make sure that your valves are still on par and that your engine is within its normal specs as far as they way it came off the factory floor with.

If you do the valves and you still have the same problem, I would look into cleaning the EGR ports on your intake main if you haven't done so already or recently. I did both the valves and the EGR around the same time on my car, and thats when my problem stopped. EGR is just WAYYY more time consuming than the valves, but either way good luck!