Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Built
#102
Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (BlackCatt)
Thanks, those pictures don't do justice to how it really looks. The engine won't be going in anytime soon now the block i was going to buy turned out to have the threads on the crank stripped so a crank pulley can't be put on. I am not sure if they could be easily repaired but i am not going to risk it so the search for a new short block begins.
For now i am going to buy the sleeving for my wire harness, finish up the 5spd swap, and fix the ignition since i have all the parts for it. I also plan on giving my interior a much needed scrub down so the smell of the last owner gets out of it and i'll do the trunk painting and dynamat lay down as well. That should keep me more than busy while i find a short block.
For now i am going to buy the sleeving for my wire harness, finish up the 5spd swap, and fix the ignition since i have all the parts for it. I also plan on giving my interior a much needed scrub down so the smell of the last owner gets out of it and i'll do the trunk painting and dynamat lay down as well. That should keep me more than busy while i find a short block.
#103
Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (Prudz_lude)
Okay guys, let me first say this. I know that build threads are suppose to be created to inform others on how to do things and give insight. However, i am not some sort of god when it comes to my car. I am not a mastermind about everything and sadly wiring is the one part of my car i do need to ask your guys help for. I know this will not be the only time i ask for help with wiring so bare with me guys/girls.
First i found this little wire cut for some odd reason. I am going to soder it back up and fix the harness. Also, where in the helms can i find the color codes for each wire? I noticed that the wiring harness diagrams just show the connectors and lable them with numbers. It makes it pretty much useless imo because most connectors are not exactly where the picture shows them and there are so many in such a congested space. if someone could clear this up for me it would help me a bunch and speed this process up
This control module is the only one i could not find in the helms as well. I could not find what it does so if someone could let me know i would be greatful for that as well. Also, what is that antenna looking thing? I unplugged it. My guess would be factory alarm?
Daunting.... very daunting. The worse part about this is there are some cut wires that are difficult to find the ends too. I found where 3 connect but 2 others i can't find where they were cut from.
A/T module. Can i simply unplug this and zip tie the loose ends to the harness that the connectors come out of? I assume that since i am going to use a M/T now i will not need them at all.
I found this black wire cut. Does anyone recognize this harness connector? It is by the driver side fuse box. I found a ground with 2 cut wires as well which seems to match this black wire.
First i found this little wire cut for some odd reason. I am going to soder it back up and fix the harness. Also, where in the helms can i find the color codes for each wire? I noticed that the wiring harness diagrams just show the connectors and lable them with numbers. It makes it pretty much useless imo because most connectors are not exactly where the picture shows them and there are so many in such a congested space. if someone could clear this up for me it would help me a bunch and speed this process up
This control module is the only one i could not find in the helms as well. I could not find what it does so if someone could let me know i would be greatful for that as well. Also, what is that antenna looking thing? I unplugged it. My guess would be factory alarm?
Daunting.... very daunting. The worse part about this is there are some cut wires that are difficult to find the ends too. I found where 3 connect but 2 others i can't find where they were cut from.
A/T module. Can i simply unplug this and zip tie the loose ends to the harness that the connectors come out of? I assume that since i am going to use a M/T now i will not need them at all.
I found this black wire cut. Does anyone recognize this harness connector? It is by the driver side fuse box. I found a ground with 2 cut wires as well which seems to match this black wire.
#104
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Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (Prudz_lude)
For what it's worth, I pulled 8 LBS (!) of wire from the dash harness after removing CC, SRS stuff, sunroof, etc and my car still runs fine That dash stuff can get very confusing.
I would suggest getting a Prelude Electrical Helms Manual, it will have more detailed info on the wires
You should be fine just leaving those auto plugs sitting there. For those loose black wires, they are almost guaranteed to be grounds. Black almost always means ground. I would see if you can extend them, attach a ring connector and ground them to the frame just to be safe.
What is your ultimate goal with all this dash wiring craziness?
I would suggest getting a Prelude Electrical Helms Manual, it will have more detailed info on the wires
You should be fine just leaving those auto plugs sitting there. For those loose black wires, they are almost guaranteed to be grounds. Black almost always means ground. I would see if you can extend them, attach a ring connector and ground them to the frame just to be safe.
What is your ultimate goal with all this dash wiring craziness?
#105
Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (Hawkze_2.3)
Shutta has a crazy manual that apparently has great wiring diagrams. He said that helms has nothing on it. He is going to burn it to a cd and mail it to me so hopefully that solves all my woes. However, in the mean time you guys hopefully can help me.
my goal is to delete CC, SRS, 4WS, and ABS harness. They all seem easy minus CC simply because that one is in the dash harness as far as i can tell. I will also be deleting a/c harness from the headlight harness.
my goal is to delete CC, SRS, 4WS, and ABS harness. They all seem easy minus CC simply because that one is in the dash harness as far as i can tell. I will also be deleting a/c harness from the headlight harness.
#106
Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (Prudz_lude)
Here is what i did today and what i need help figuring out. The harness seems to be in good shape and with a few touch up's should be 100%. i'll try to make this as unconfusing as possible
First off, i untangled one of the seperate harnesses from that bundle. I never read what it is because i was in a bit of a rush so if someone could pick it out and let me know what it is for that would be cool. If not i'll find out later this week when i work on it some more.
After i undid that i started working on my ignition system. I read up and discovered that, that bundle harness that is all messed up is the ignition harness good news. The bad news about that sadly is there are quiet a few loose ends...and some colors don't match to what the helms says they should be even though they are the connectors i am looking for.
New ignition
New ignition comparison with old ignition
Damaged piece, back black plastic piece is also destroyed on it.
being very careful opening the harness up to expose the ignition wires
Splicing the wires, on there nice and tight (not going to come apart)
Bust out the soldering iron
Not the best connections but they work. The wires are really thick so it took alot of solder. I am going to wrap them all up in electrical tape (ran out) so that they do not create a short.
Second piece of ignition wiring that i needed to rewire
What this harnesses connection looks like when damaged and unharmed. I totally lucked out with where i cut those harnesses btw. it is a six wire harness but right before the cut there are actually 2 wires that merge to 1 wire. I was lucky enough to cut it 1 cm before haha.
A much cleaner solder (thanks to thin wires) Once again it will be all taped individually then together and re-covered.
Then i connected it all back together and put the black plastic cover piece back on. It just needs to be bolted up to the steering coloum now
First off, i untangled one of the seperate harnesses from that bundle. I never read what it is because i was in a bit of a rush so if someone could pick it out and let me know what it is for that would be cool. If not i'll find out later this week when i work on it some more.
After i undid that i started working on my ignition system. I read up and discovered that, that bundle harness that is all messed up is the ignition harness good news. The bad news about that sadly is there are quiet a few loose ends...and some colors don't match to what the helms says they should be even though they are the connectors i am looking for.
New ignition
New ignition comparison with old ignition
Damaged piece, back black plastic piece is also destroyed on it.
being very careful opening the harness up to expose the ignition wires
Splicing the wires, on there nice and tight (not going to come apart)
Bust out the soldering iron
Not the best connections but they work. The wires are really thick so it took alot of solder. I am going to wrap them all up in electrical tape (ran out) so that they do not create a short.
Second piece of ignition wiring that i needed to rewire
What this harnesses connection looks like when damaged and unharmed. I totally lucked out with where i cut those harnesses btw. it is a six wire harness but right before the cut there are actually 2 wires that merge to 1 wire. I was lucky enough to cut it 1 cm before haha.
A much cleaner solder (thanks to thin wires) Once again it will be all taped individually then together and re-covered.
Then i connected it all back together and put the black plastic cover piece back on. It just needs to be bolted up to the steering coloum now
#107
Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (Prudz_lude)
Now for the hellish post haha
I am going to try to show you guys pictures of the ignition wires unfolding from this mess
This blue wire is connected to the ignition harness. This wire is for some reason spliced into this green/white wire. It appears to be done by the previous owner, not honda.
Beside that blue wire is this brown wire that leads to no where which is being run off the same green/white wire
Now, try to follow along. This blue wire lead to this wire harness. when i reached the beginning of where the blue wire lead to i ended up finding this. An orange wire, a black, a black/white, a green/white (i believe might just be green but i remember it being green/white), and a white wire.
The black/white wire lead to this connector, which had a black wire (it was a ground)
Not sure what this is for but it has too inline fuses
According to the helms the ignition has 2 connectors. A 5-p connector and a 3-p connector. I found both. However, for the 5-p connector one of the wires is in the incorrect pin. All the wire colours however match the helms.
5-p connector
this is where i got pretty fustrated. This is the 3-p connector but the wire colours do not match. It comes directly where the helms says it is and does indeed follow back to the ignition...what pisses me off is it goes to the next confusing harness which i will talk about in a second.
According to the helms it should not be those color wires...
As you can see it follows back to the ignition
This yellow wire comes from the 3-p connector and into this connector...spliced into a different color...once again, not honda doing this but the previous owner.
God.... Once this ignition stuff is sorted out the rest of the harnesses should be a piece of cake.
I am going to try to show you guys pictures of the ignition wires unfolding from this mess
This blue wire is connected to the ignition harness. This wire is for some reason spliced into this green/white wire. It appears to be done by the previous owner, not honda.
Beside that blue wire is this brown wire that leads to no where which is being run off the same green/white wire
Now, try to follow along. This blue wire lead to this wire harness. when i reached the beginning of where the blue wire lead to i ended up finding this. An orange wire, a black, a black/white, a green/white (i believe might just be green but i remember it being green/white), and a white wire.
The black/white wire lead to this connector, which had a black wire (it was a ground)
Not sure what this is for but it has too inline fuses
According to the helms the ignition has 2 connectors. A 5-p connector and a 3-p connector. I found both. However, for the 5-p connector one of the wires is in the incorrect pin. All the wire colours however match the helms.
5-p connector
this is where i got pretty fustrated. This is the 3-p connector but the wire colours do not match. It comes directly where the helms says it is and does indeed follow back to the ignition...what pisses me off is it goes to the next confusing harness which i will talk about in a second.
According to the helms it should not be those color wires...
As you can see it follows back to the ignition
This yellow wire comes from the 3-p connector and into this connector...spliced into a different color...once again, not honda doing this but the previous owner.
God.... Once this ignition stuff is sorted out the rest of the harnesses should be a piece of cake.
#108
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Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (Prudz_lude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prudz_lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This control module is the only one i could not find in the helms as well. I could not find what it does so if someone could let me know i would be greatful for that as well. Also, what is that antenna looking thing? I unplugged it. My guess would be factory alarm?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats your alarm system Brain I believe. The antena is proably a receiver for your keyless remote. If that part was right under your steering column thats probably your alarm brain as thats usually the easiest place to put it I believe
Oh btw, nice electrical work. Good solid connections is what its all about. And making sure you don't get shorts either to ground or to other wires. Use shrink wrap if you can. It seals/insulates the best and trust me. Having bad grounds/ shorts/ loose connections is a nightmare you don't wanna start dreaming about.
This control module is the only one i could not find in the helms as well. I could not find what it does so if someone could let me know i would be greatful for that as well. Also, what is that antenna looking thing? I unplugged it. My guess would be factory alarm?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats your alarm system Brain I believe. The antena is proably a receiver for your keyless remote. If that part was right under your steering column thats probably your alarm brain as thats usually the easiest place to put it I believe
Oh btw, nice electrical work. Good solid connections is what its all about. And making sure you don't get shorts either to ground or to other wires. Use shrink wrap if you can. It seals/insulates the best and trust me. Having bad grounds/ shorts/ loose connections is a nightmare you don't wanna start dreaming about.
#109
Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (mattsnooz)
Thats what i was thinking it was, thanks! Hopefully it is just the alarm. It still has those 2 big connectors though with lots of wires lol. Can someone else shed some insight into that issue?
#110
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Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (Prudz_lude)
Yeah, the box with the antenna is an alarm. The grounds that you can't figure out are standard for someone grounding an aftermarket piece like an alarm or anything else that needs a ground. A lot of the wires you can't figure out, look to be for an alarm. Btw, that soldering job on the ignition harness is horrific. LOL. Cold solder joints = no good. Get a higher wattage iron or be more patient when applying the heat.
#111
Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (ExodusFX)
You are doing a great job so far but ExodusFX is right on, I was about to post the same thing. It looks like you are heating the solder and dripping it onto the wires. Instead heat the wires at the tip and put the solder on the wires, not the soldering iron tip. This will allow the solder to actually draw into the wires, trust me I would go back and redo those solders, they will make you pay later.
#112
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I would listen to this guy ^
Your soldering looks like you're just dripping solder onto the wires.
You need to heat both wires together with the iron, then apply the solder to it. Perhaps get a friend to hold the wires while you do it...
Go back and redo all of those solders.
Your soldering looks like you're just dripping solder onto the wires.
You need to heat both wires together with the iron, then apply the solder to it. Perhaps get a friend to hold the wires while you do it...
Go back and redo all of those solders.
#113
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Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (Prudz_lude)
hey i like they thread it's helping me out for my swap this winter but I highly suggest that you desolder everything you soldered and use environmental splices or twist cap splices that much solder has a negative conducting effect, you can pick up twist cap splices at every hardware store but the downfall is that they are bulky and don't look as good raychem makes really good environmental splices but they are a little more pricey so check them out. we use the raychem splices all of the time on our jets (i'm and aircraft electrician) and they very easy quick uniform and clean cut to use.
#114
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Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (redskull1944)
Hey man, little help for your soldering.
I worked as a copper smith in my teens building lanterns so you can trust me on this one.
If you want to connections to work and be even stronger then the wires your soldering together. Go to home depot and buy yourself a small can of 50/50 acidic flux. Its grey stuff, about 8 bucks a can, its a 50/50 mix of flux and solder. Apply a little to each wire your going to connect with a paint brush, place the two wires together with a tiwst apply another coating of flush as you probably wiped some off twisting them together. After you twist them together. Use your soldering iron to heat the two wires. When the flux bubbles and turns white and the solder in it starts to fuse the wires together, then touch a dab of leadcore solder to the wire with the soldering iron still to it, the flux will pull the solder all the way around the wire and not leave you with exposed wire on the bottom. Also before you solder slide a heat shrink wrap to one side of the wires, after you solder slide it over your connection and heat it up with a lighter, that will prevent shorts.
Hope that helps. If you rebuilding this car and want to do it properly, please go back and resolder those wires the right way, they'll only cause problems down the road.
Thanks,
-Dave
I worked as a copper smith in my teens building lanterns so you can trust me on this one.
If you want to connections to work and be even stronger then the wires your soldering together. Go to home depot and buy yourself a small can of 50/50 acidic flux. Its grey stuff, about 8 bucks a can, its a 50/50 mix of flux and solder. Apply a little to each wire your going to connect with a paint brush, place the two wires together with a tiwst apply another coating of flush as you probably wiped some off twisting them together. After you twist them together. Use your soldering iron to heat the two wires. When the flux bubbles and turns white and the solder in it starts to fuse the wires together, then touch a dab of leadcore solder to the wire with the soldering iron still to it, the flux will pull the solder all the way around the wire and not leave you with exposed wire on the bottom. Also before you solder slide a heat shrink wrap to one side of the wires, after you solder slide it over your connection and heat it up with a lighter, that will prevent shorts.
Hope that helps. If you rebuilding this car and want to do it properly, please go back and resolder those wires the right way, they'll only cause problems down the road.
Thanks,
-Dave
#115
Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (xxphunkxx)
Rofl thanks guy, i TRUELY appreciate the helpful advice on the soldering. My crappy job reminded me of pegion **** actually lol. Me and my friend were lol'ing while doing it because we both knew it could be alot better. I'll go to home depot tomorrow and redo those ignition wires. I'll pick up some electrical tape as well.
As far as ExodusFX said in regards to most of those wires being random who else thinks this? Like i said, i could not find the helms telling me anything on those wires and they all looked to be put in my the previous owner, not honda. I found 2 LED lights in the door panels and one on the dash so i am guessing those wires were connected to those additional lights.
As far as ExodusFX said in regards to most of those wires being random who else thinks this? Like i said, i could not find the helms telling me anything on those wires and they all looked to be put in my the previous owner, not honda. I found 2 LED lights in the door panels and one on the dash so i am guessing those wires were connected to those additional lights.
#116
Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (Prudz_lude)
Isn't that a Honda Factory Service Manual in the background on the alarm receiver? If so that should have all the car's wiring diagram with colors i think.
#117
Re: Adam's 4th gen De-rice Turbo Restoration Build (jzobie1)
That is the helms manual. Sadly it is pretty useless for wiring. They show all the connectors but it is very difficult to understand since the diagrams really just show a general area of where they are, and since there are so many and they all look the exact same in the diagrams it makes it very difficult.
They have numbers that explain which each connector is for, but its useless because like i said, you can't tell any of the connectors apart from the other in the diagrams. Plus only 1 out of every 20 connectors shown has the colors of wires labelled.
They have numbers that explain which each connector is for, but its useless because like i said, you can't tell any of the connectors apart from the other in the diagrams. Plus only 1 out of every 20 connectors shown has the colors of wires labelled.
#118
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Nice project. Definitely redo the solder joints. I use heat shink that has hot glue in it that melts as the it shinks making a waterproof connection.
One other thing I try to do when splicing multiple wires is to offset the connections about 1"-1.5" to keep from having a big bulge in the harness and less chance of shorts.
I'll be following this thread for sure. I'm getting a '92 H23 5 speed Prelude (all stock) with a bad timing belt dropped off at my house on Saturday for $350.00. It will be under PSI when its done too.
One other thing I try to do when splicing multiple wires is to offset the connections about 1"-1.5" to keep from having a big bulge in the harness and less chance of shorts.
I'll be following this thread for sure. I'm getting a '92 H23 5 speed Prelude (all stock) with a bad timing belt dropped off at my house on Saturday for $350.00. It will be under PSI when its done too.
#120
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Re: (Prudz_lude)
yea that looks a lot like an alarm box to me, depending on the alarm they can have a **** load of wires. some of the cheap ones just beep when someone jacks with ur car but when u got the alarms that unlock the doors and pop ur truck and all that jazz ends up being a lot of usless wires. asuming you dont want that alarm...witch i wouldnt either . normally the led light that you said was on the dash should be just the flashy light when you turn your alarm on. i dunno what the other ones would be. havent seen an alarm with more then one.
#121
Re: (chase.vanatta)
^ it 100% was an alarm.
Great news guys!!! I got alot accomplished today. I woke up this morning and when i looked at the wiring again it all made sense. It was an alarm and i was able completely restore my ignition harnesses, fix the damaged wire, and get rid of all the excess useless alarm wires.
I tore out the sound deadening material from my fire wall and got my SRS harness and control module deleted as well. I am going to get my 4ws harness off this weekend along with my abs harness. I took pictures but won't be able to upload them until saturday so you guys will have to wait
My next step is to buy my dynamat and cover the firewall in the stuff (double layer for the firewall), cover the entire floor, the doors, and the trunk. I also will hopefully be able to pick up my 5speed swap this weekend so i can finally install it. The local who i am buying it from is not replying so i might have to go somewhere else to get it, hopefully not though.
Needless to say, i am extremely happy that i figured this out with the help of you guys Thanks guys for the help, it was much appreciated.
Great news guys!!! I got alot accomplished today. I woke up this morning and when i looked at the wiring again it all made sense. It was an alarm and i was able completely restore my ignition harnesses, fix the damaged wire, and get rid of all the excess useless alarm wires.
I tore out the sound deadening material from my fire wall and got my SRS harness and control module deleted as well. I am going to get my 4ws harness off this weekend along with my abs harness. I took pictures but won't be able to upload them until saturday so you guys will have to wait
My next step is to buy my dynamat and cover the firewall in the stuff (double layer for the firewall), cover the entire floor, the doors, and the trunk. I also will hopefully be able to pick up my 5speed swap this weekend so i can finally install it. The local who i am buying it from is not replying so i might have to go somewhere else to get it, hopefully not though.
Needless to say, i am extremely happy that i figured this out with the help of you guys Thanks guys for the help, it was much appreciated.
#123
Re: (pheurton-skeurto)
My car came only equipped with a driver side airbag. I was pretty shocked. I guess the si (canadian h23) had the airbags as an option. My dash does not have a passanger airbag insert so i did not have to worry about that side. As for my drivers side i got an NRG sterring wheel going in so it deletes the drivers side airbag.
I actually took out the entire module (in the dash infront of the shifter) and all the wiring and the two impact sensors. They are just added weight. I am however going to keep them for now just incase i am told i need a safety inspection for some odd reason. It shouldn't happen since it had an out of province this year, but you never know what insurance is going to tell you.
I actually took out the entire module (in the dash infront of the shifter) and all the wiring and the two impact sensors. They are just added weight. I am however going to keep them for now just incase i am told i need a safety inspection for some odd reason. It shouldn't happen since it had an out of province this year, but you never know what insurance is going to tell you.
#125
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Re: (Prudz_lude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prudz_lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car came only equipped with a driver side airbag. I was pretty shocked. I guess the si (canadian h23) had the airbags as an option. My dash does not have a passanger airbag insert so i did not have to worry about that side. </TD></TR></TABLE>
'92 & '93 Si's didn't come with passenger airbags.
'92 & '93 Si's didn't come with passenger airbags.