M@

So do you think your O2 was off on the origional Dyno results page? The reason I ask, is because if it was it would make sense that the OEM might make more power since its a smaller diameter and could reduce the air coming in. Thus putting afr closer to stoic. or

mgags7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCxMagus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has anyone done a skunk 2 versus Euro R plot?</TD></TR></TABLE>

jdogg

flyrod

Interesting results; thanks for sharing!! I think the stock manifold would have done a little better on the low end with IAB (only 120ft-lbs down there?!?), but your setup really did well with the euro r. How do you like the neptune stuff? Do you have that bluetooth adapter I've read about? Good luck with the setup.

NirVTEC

I will be doing a EuroR vs BTP3 test as soon as our shop dyno is up and running. I have lost confidence in the EuroR's powerband support as a friend with a similar setup to mine running JUNs/EuroR has power dropping off before 8000rpms where mine comtinues past 8000 on its way to 8300.
Im not going to be happy if the EuroR outpowers my BTP3.....as I could have just bought a EuroR for less than what I have into the BTP3.

Can you really bore a stock TB out to 70mm. I have read mixed reviews about that. Saw it in another post. Wouldn't the butterfly plate be a little smaller then?

PirateMcFred

You can have the opening at 70mm, the plate itself can really only manage about 64mm before the material gets really thin. Otherwise it will take heavy modification get 70mm on an OEM TB.

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

If you're reffering to what I was saying I meant that the manifold can go to 70 and not the throttle body.

Revi

Euro-R IM + My Type-S.....very tempting....

98vtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Interesting results; thanks for sharing!! I think the stock manifold would have done a little better on the low end with IAB (only 120ft-lbs down there?!?), but your setup really did well with the euro r. How do you like the neptune stuff? Do you have that bluetooth adapter I've read about? Good luck with the setup.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i am suprised how much the low end was increased. I would imagine that is due to the smaller plenum design. I really like the neptune software. It took me a little bit to adjust to the interface compared to crome as it is a little more advanced. I didnt go with the bluetooth option because i didnt wanna spend 100 bux on that. I may do it in the future, but the USB cable works fine for now.

98vtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So do you think your O2 was off on the origional Dyno results page? The reason I ask, is because if it was it would make sense that the OEM might make more power since its a smaller diameter and could reduce the air coming in. Thus putting afr closer to stoic. or </TD></TR></TABLE>

it wouldnt matter if my o2 sensor was off. I was tuning by what the sniffer was saying.

snzh22

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by :=:NirVTEC:=: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will be doing a EuroR vs BTP3 test as soon as our shop dyno is up and running. I have lost confidence in the EuroR's powerband support as a friend with a similar setup to mine running JUNs/EuroR has power dropping off before 8000rpms where mine comtinues past 8000 on its way to 8300.
Im not going to be happy if the EuroR outpowers my BTP3.....as I could have just bought a EuroR for less than what I have into the BTP3.

Can you really bore a stock TB out to 70mm. I have read mixed reviews about that. Saw it in another post. Wouldn't the butterfly plate be a little smaller then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

im interested in this. u dont think the euro r is more expensive? dont u have to do a bunch of mods in order to get it in? blacktrax stg 3 manifold = 325, where the euro r is 300 for the manifold itself but then u need some adapter plates and to plug some holes in the manifold. and if u cant do that urself, then ur gonna spend some money on that...

http://www.roskoracing.com/ - how to install

98vtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by :=:NirVTEC:=: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will be doing a EuroR vs BTP3 test as soon as our shop dyno is up and running. I have lost confidence in the EuroR's powerband support as a friend with a similar setup to mine running JUNs/EuroR has power dropping off before 8000rpms where mine comtinues past 8000 on its way to 8300.
Im not going to be happy if the EuroR outpowers my BTP3.....as I could have just bought a EuroR for less than what I have into the BTP3.

Can you really bore a stock TB out to 70mm. I have read mixed reviews about that. Saw it in another post. Wouldn't the butterfly plate be a little smaller then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'd be really interested in seeing this.

98vtec

next test will likely be:

70mm throttle vs s2k throttle (62mm) vs smaller throttle (like b16)

prelittlelude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

EDIT:

Tom's Test. Dyno run without vtec:


</TD></TR></TABLE>

SICK! thanks for doing that blake, I hope you didn't waste too much time on it. thanks a million.

nice results though, and get you wideband fixed. what kind is it, what ems are you using. you may have to adjust the gain setting in the EMS for an accurate reading. PM me if you need more help.

98vtec

i'm going to recalibrate it and see what happens. Just means i gotta take the sensor out to do so

LC-1 / Neptune

A Blue Lude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i'm going to recalibrate it and see what happens. Just means i gotta take the sensor out to do so

LC-1 / Neptune</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you leave the car sitting for the night you could just recal it then, when the exhaust is going to be clean. Or do a rolling calibration


But pretty much the one thing on the LC1 quick reference card is "Driving around with WB powered off = sensor death" in big letters. So you might need a new sensor.




Modified by A Blue Lude at 7:27 AM 8/10/2007

mgags7

Guys I would think it is pretty apparent that the euro-r manifold is not going to do extremely well at very high rpm. The plenum is simply too small to do so, you would either have to go huge on the throttle body or get a manifold with a bigger plenum.

Take a look at the birdman's rlz manifold, the plenum is huge so it can keep up the 8500rpm.

Mykizism

NirVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guys I would think it is pretty apparent that the euro-r manifold is not going to do extremely well at very high rpm. The plenum is simply too small to do so, you would either have to go huge on the throttle body or get a manifold with a bigger plenum.

Take a look at the birdman's rlz manifold, the plenum is huge so it can keep up the 8500rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any opinions on how a GE IM would do? I have one sitting in a box....
Great top end with crappy low-mid?

PirateMcFred

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guys I would think it is pretty apparent that the euro-r manifold is not going to do extremely well at very high rpm. The plenum is simply too small to do so, you would either have to go huge on the throttle body or get a manifold with a bigger plenum.

Take a look at the birdman's rlz manifold, the plenum is huge so it can keep up the 8500rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Euro-R did pretty well up to 8000 on a stock ported H22 head in Six Sigma's F23/H22 hybrid:
link

And did pretty well on Corey's H1 Jun cammed H22:

PirateMcFred

I remembered AlphaJesse's Euro R test from a couple months back and it looks like similar gains as yours Blake. Corroboration is nice. However Jdogg did not see that in his tests but his header was pretty different than Alphajesse's SMSP and your RMF.




Pirate

98vtec

yea, right around 5500-6k i get an instantaneous kick in the *** that i can feel. I love this gain because i land at 6k between shifts and its nice landing at peak torque!!

cant wait to get back to the track.

NirVTEC

Coreys numbers were a little high.....He actually sold the car to a local guy who I previously referred to. The same setup made 220whp on our local dyno and power was dropping by 8000rpms. Still an awesome setup for a 100% OE bottom end. The JUN Prelude also uses a EuroR IM.
I guess I can thank the BTP IM for my powerband support at this point. I also saw a huge 4-4500 jump which was a combo of the BTP3 and JUN cams mixed with a 2.5" exhaust.

98vtec

all i know is that i am very happy with how this manifold is performing on my engine. i should be dynoing again in a couple weeks with the Crower2's and a longer intake.

SteveoBA8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">next test will likely be:

70mm throttle vs s2k throttle (62mm) vs smaller throttle (like b16)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes!!

98vtec

expanded view of the graph: