What I have learned about motorcycling.
12-22-2001, 09:11 PM
#1
What is this crap?
Thread Starter
What I have learned about motorcycling.
I just heard that Arturbo bought a bike.
This is a rough draft of something I want Art to read.
There are several items listed here that many people will hesitate to agree on or completely disagree with. I am not perfect. These rules are the best I have come up with from personal experience, talking to lifetime riders, and reading accident reports/ motorcycle studies.Your results may vary. I am writing this to keep people safe. Even if something is wrong in here, it is making riders think about it. Corrections/ discussions/ new ideas are welcome.
What I have learned about motorcycling.
More fatalities are caused by oncoming cars making left turns in front of you than any other traffic situation.
Sportbikes are less stable the slower you go. That means the parking lot, approaching stop signs/lights, making turns in intersections are places where you’ll just drop the bike without knowing what happened.
Take the MSF course. Practice what you learned in there.
If you’re tired, sick, upset, or just don’t feel sharp, don’t ride.
Get the right gear: full face helmet, riding jacket, boots with ankle protection, and good gloves…wearing jeans as a bare minimum.
Try to get long term disability added to your health insurance. Its murphy’s law. If you get it, you’ll never need it.
Assume no one sees you. Plan accordingly.
Learn how to double swerve. That means making an evasive maneuver to avoid a car, person, dog, bicycle, tree, and then make another maneuver to get you back in your lane.
Always be aware of your options. They are typically: Slow down. Stop. Swerve. Double swerve. Or downshift and add power.
Front brake is 80% of braking. If you get on the rear brake hard you’ll skid and wreck. They make you experience this in the MSF course.
The rear brake should only be applied to supplement the front brake. Using them together 80/20, you can minimize the bikes braking distance.
If you brake really hard while the bike is leaned over in a sharp turn, the bike will stand up. Always be aware of your entry speed into a turn.
Where you look is where you go. Commit this to memory. This means when you identify a road hazard, use your eyes to find your evasive maneuver. If you stare at a hazard, you’re going to hit it.
Countersteering: Above 10mph, push right go right. Push left, go left. It will make sense when you give it a try.
The physics behind the dynamics of a motorcycle are complex enough to write a graduate thesis paper on them. Fortunately, you don’t have to. But you do have to learn, understand, and experience the forces involved in controlling the bike, the throttle, and the using the traction of the road.
Racing a car is a quick way to become a grease spot on the road. 99% of all bikes are faster than 99% of all cars. You can pretty much beat any car hands down. If you have to prove it on a regular basis, go fill out your last will and testament.
Plastic fairings are expensive. Look into frame sliders.
Frame sliders can break easily, especially of you drop the bike at 25mph or more.
Oil, water, cold weather, manhole covers, painted lines, sand, gravel, paper bags, plastic bags all will reduce traction and cause you to lose control of your bike.
If you are riding on a low traction surface, minimize the amount of steering/braking/acceleration changes you make, until you get back on clean pavement. (Just like driving a car over an iced bridge.)
All rodents, cats, dogs, squirrels, deer, etc can and will eventually decide to be in the same place in the road as you are at some point. Plan accordingly.
Motorcycle tires are good for a fraction of the miles of a car tire. They are made of a softer compound to give you more traction. The contact patch of a motorcycle tire is much smaller than that of a car, since they are round (and there is only 2 of them). Aggressive riders go thru tires once a year/season.
The amount of traction you have at any moment is limited. Its like you have a traction budget. Turning, accelerating, braking all take away from your budget. If any one exceeds the amount of traction you have, you’re going to lose traction.
Turning uses some of the ‘traction budget’ you have. It can use all of it if you push it too hard. Accelerating/braking while turning will quickly use up your traction budget.
Bugs can hurt. They can also explode on contact with your body/face/helmet etc.
Always be aware of your chain tension. If it is out of spec, its shortening the life of the front and rear sprocket, as well as the chain itself.
Lube your chain as often as it takes to keep it properly lubricated. Silicone lubes are easy to use and clean off, are applied easily with aerosol cans, and should be applied after every hard ride.
Chicken strips are the unused parts of the tire that are furthest from the center. Don’t judge riders based on how thick their chicken strips are. Some riders can have large chicken strips and will burn you in the corners. Its all about the lean.
Shifting your body weight towards the inside of a turn will make the bike turn more with less bike lean. Getting your weight off the center of the bike’s vertical axis can make the bike more stable through a turn, but it can also put you in a vulnerable position if you encounter a hazard. Shifting your weight excessively / dragging your knee in corners on the street should be done conservatively on the street. It does look cool, feel cool, and its lots of fun, but extreme riding needs to be contained to ‘controlled situations’, such as a track.
Riding on the street is never riding in a ‘controlled situation’.
Even if you make eye contact with another driver, they still can and will fail to realize they have to share the streets with you. Plan accordingly.
When you get surrounded by 1, 2 or more cars, in an urban setting with side streets and / or a shared turn lane in the middle, its ok to downshift and get the RPMs up in case you need to make an evasive maneuver.
The more, sporty the sportbike, the closer to redline the powerband is. Know how to get into the powerband if you need to scoot.
Most bikes will wheelie with the flick of your right wrist. Know the limits of your bike. A surprise wheelie in traffic can be unpleasant.
Wheelies can turn into you falling off the back of the bike quickly. Technically its called a high moment of inertia, non-technically its referred to as: you just fell on your *** and your bike is probably totalled up since its tumbling end over end down the road.
The faster you go, the higher the chances of serious injury or fatality. Its not a linear relationship though. Generally speaking, above 50mph is when the chances of serious injury increase dramatically.
Large trucks on the highway can be hazardous to your health. They can lift things like 4ft by 8 ft sheets of plywood, not to mention rocks the size of walnuts. (see my helmet.)
You have no bumper, seatbelts, airbags, traction control or ABS brakes (save a few high end Honda cruiser/tourers). Your error margin is small. You have to stay within the safety envelope. Every rider breaks this rule at some point. Try not to break it often.
If you’re going to lose control of your bike at 120+mph, your gear only benefits the fire department in cleaning up the accident scene.
Most helmets meet all of the safety requirements (DOT, SNELL). The cost of the helmet is directly proportional to the comfort of the helmet. Also, as cost goes up, the weight goes down.
Different helmet brands are shaped differently. Some fit oval heads better. Some fit round heads better.
Despite what people will say, its very difficult to purchase helmets / riding boots without trying them on first.
Boots that claim to keep your feet dry from rain will cause your feet to get wet with sweat.
All motorcycle maintenance items / repair costs cost 2 – 4 times more than for cars.
Tire pressure affects handling characteristics more than with cars.
Most bikes have adjustable suspensions. The suspension damping/preload should be set for the weight of the rider/passenger/gear/equipment.
Carburetors are finicky. They give bikes personality. Learn as much as you can, and resist tweaking a bike that’s running fine.
Most bikes have multiple carburetors. Synchronizing carburetors regularly can help with how smooth the engine runs.
Don't forget to turn the choke off once the bike is warmed up.
Carbs are sensitive to: temperature, humidity, altitude, fuel octane, engine timing, engine temperature, brand of fuel, fuel additives, valve clearance. You name it.
Motorcycles vibrate. A lot. Check bolts at every major servicing.
If you have to use your reserve, don’t forget to put the petcock back to ‘on’ after filling up. You don’t want to push the bike. It will kill your back.
Use the bike’s odometer to gauge when you need to stop for fuel, even if your bike has a fuel gauge.
Get a factory service manual for your bike, even if you have a shop do all the service. They are generally inexpensive, and knowing your machine is an important element in riding safe.
Riding a motorcycle is much more interesting, exciting, entertaining, thrilling, demanding, and fatiguing than riding a car. Don’t expect to ride 600 miles per day on a crotch rocket until you’re actually done it.
The sportier the bike, the less time you can ride it without a break from the numbing vibration/ harsh suspension/ cramped position.
Motorcycling is a unique, diverse, and challenging experience. Mastering it is one of the most rewarding experiences that doesn’t require a member of the opposite sex. Inclusion of the opposite sex is highly recommended, as long as its not diverting your undivided attention to the road.
Riding in groups is fun. The newest riders should lead the group. They need to become accustomed to deciding where to go, identify hazards, and be responsible for other riders. New riders in the back of a group learn to fixate on the rear tire of the person in front of them. (This was a factor in my wreck).
The testosterone level in a male rider in a group is equal to the sum of the testosterone levels of all the males riding in a group. Don’t push yourself beyond your means.
As dangerous and scary as all these things make motorcycling sound, there is still nothing like it, and its completely worth it, as long as you do the right things to mitigate the risks involved.
Have fun!
[Modified by falconGSR, 5:19 AM 12/23/2001]
[Modified by falconGSR, 5:20 PM 12/23/2001]
[Modified by falconGSR, 4:54 PM 12/24/2001]
This is a rough draft of something I want Art to read.
There are several items listed here that many people will hesitate to agree on or completely disagree with. I am not perfect. These rules are the best I have come up with from personal experience, talking to lifetime riders, and reading accident reports/ motorcycle studies.Your results may vary. I am writing this to keep people safe. Even if something is wrong in here, it is making riders think about it. Corrections/ discussions/ new ideas are welcome.
What I have learned about motorcycling.
More fatalities are caused by oncoming cars making left turns in front of you than any other traffic situation.
Sportbikes are less stable the slower you go. That means the parking lot, approaching stop signs/lights, making turns in intersections are places where you’ll just drop the bike without knowing what happened.
Take the MSF course. Practice what you learned in there.
If you’re tired, sick, upset, or just don’t feel sharp, don’t ride.
Get the right gear: full face helmet, riding jacket, boots with ankle protection, and good gloves…wearing jeans as a bare minimum.
Try to get long term disability added to your health insurance. Its murphy’s law. If you get it, you’ll never need it.
Assume no one sees you. Plan accordingly.
Learn how to double swerve. That means making an evasive maneuver to avoid a car, person, dog, bicycle, tree, and then make another maneuver to get you back in your lane.
Always be aware of your options. They are typically: Slow down. Stop. Swerve. Double swerve. Or downshift and add power.
Front brake is 80% of braking. If you get on the rear brake hard you’ll skid and wreck. They make you experience this in the MSF course.
The rear brake should only be applied to supplement the front brake. Using them together 80/20, you can minimize the bikes braking distance.
If you brake really hard while the bike is leaned over in a sharp turn, the bike will stand up. Always be aware of your entry speed into a turn.
Where you look is where you go. Commit this to memory. This means when you identify a road hazard, use your eyes to find your evasive maneuver. If you stare at a hazard, you’re going to hit it.
Countersteering: Above 10mph, push right go right. Push left, go left. It will make sense when you give it a try.
The physics behind the dynamics of a motorcycle are complex enough to write a graduate thesis paper on them. Fortunately, you don’t have to. But you do have to learn, understand, and experience the forces involved in controlling the bike, the throttle, and the using the traction of the road.
Racing a car is a quick way to become a grease spot on the road. 99% of all bikes are faster than 99% of all cars. You can pretty much beat any car hands down. If you have to prove it on a regular basis, go fill out your last will and testament.
Plastic fairings are expensive. Look into frame sliders.
Frame sliders can break easily, especially of you drop the bike at 25mph or more.
Oil, water, cold weather, manhole covers, painted lines, sand, gravel, paper bags, plastic bags all will reduce traction and cause you to lose control of your bike.
If you are riding on a low traction surface, minimize the amount of steering/braking/acceleration changes you make, until you get back on clean pavement. (Just like driving a car over an iced bridge.)
All rodents, cats, dogs, squirrels, deer, etc can and will eventually decide to be in the same place in the road as you are at some point. Plan accordingly.
Motorcycle tires are good for a fraction of the miles of a car tire. They are made of a softer compound to give you more traction. The contact patch of a motorcycle tire is much smaller than that of a car, since they are round (and there is only 2 of them). Aggressive riders go thru tires once a year/season.
The amount of traction you have at any moment is limited. Its like you have a traction budget. Turning, accelerating, braking all take away from your budget. If any one exceeds the amount of traction you have, you’re going to lose traction.
Turning uses some of the ‘traction budget’ you have. It can use all of it if you push it too hard. Accelerating/braking while turning will quickly use up your traction budget.
Bugs can hurt. They can also explode on contact with your body/face/helmet etc.
Always be aware of your chain tension. If it is out of spec, its shortening the life of the front and rear sprocket, as well as the chain itself.
Lube your chain as often as it takes to keep it properly lubricated. Silicone lubes are easy to use and clean off, are applied easily with aerosol cans, and should be applied after every hard ride.
Chicken strips are the unused parts of the tire that are furthest from the center. Don’t judge riders based on how thick their chicken strips are. Some riders can have large chicken strips and will burn you in the corners. Its all about the lean.
Shifting your body weight towards the inside of a turn will make the bike turn more with less bike lean. Getting your weight off the center of the bike’s vertical axis can make the bike more stable through a turn, but it can also put you in a vulnerable position if you encounter a hazard. Shifting your weight excessively / dragging your knee in corners on the street should be done conservatively on the street. It does look cool, feel cool, and its lots of fun, but extreme riding needs to be contained to ‘controlled situations’, such as a track.
Riding on the street is never riding in a ‘controlled situation’.
Even if you make eye contact with another driver, they still can and will fail to realize they have to share the streets with you. Plan accordingly.
When you get surrounded by 1, 2 or more cars, in an urban setting with side streets and / or a shared turn lane in the middle, its ok to downshift and get the RPMs up in case you need to make an evasive maneuver.
The more, sporty the sportbike, the closer to redline the powerband is. Know how to get into the powerband if you need to scoot.
Most bikes will wheelie with the flick of your right wrist. Know the limits of your bike. A surprise wheelie in traffic can be unpleasant.
Wheelies can turn into you falling off the back of the bike quickly. Technically its called a high moment of inertia, non-technically its referred to as: you just fell on your *** and your bike is probably totalled up since its tumbling end over end down the road.
The faster you go, the higher the chances of serious injury or fatality. Its not a linear relationship though. Generally speaking, above 50mph is when the chances of serious injury increase dramatically.
Large trucks on the highway can be hazardous to your health. They can lift things like 4ft by 8 ft sheets of plywood, not to mention rocks the size of walnuts. (see my helmet.)
You have no bumper, seatbelts, airbags, traction control or ABS brakes (save a few high end Honda cruiser/tourers). Your error margin is small. You have to stay within the safety envelope. Every rider breaks this rule at some point. Try not to break it often.
If you’re going to lose control of your bike at 120+mph, your gear only benefits the fire department in cleaning up the accident scene.
Most helmets meet all of the safety requirements (DOT, SNELL). The cost of the helmet is directly proportional to the comfort of the helmet. Also, as cost goes up, the weight goes down.
Different helmet brands are shaped differently. Some fit oval heads better. Some fit round heads better.
Despite what people will say, its very difficult to purchase helmets / riding boots without trying them on first.
Boots that claim to keep your feet dry from rain will cause your feet to get wet with sweat.
All motorcycle maintenance items / repair costs cost 2 – 4 times more than for cars.
Tire pressure affects handling characteristics more than with cars.
Most bikes have adjustable suspensions. The suspension damping/preload should be set for the weight of the rider/passenger/gear/equipment.
Carburetors are finicky. They give bikes personality. Learn as much as you can, and resist tweaking a bike that’s running fine.
Most bikes have multiple carburetors. Synchronizing carburetors regularly can help with how smooth the engine runs.
Don't forget to turn the choke off once the bike is warmed up.
Carbs are sensitive to: temperature, humidity, altitude, fuel octane, engine timing, engine temperature, brand of fuel, fuel additives, valve clearance. You name it.
Motorcycles vibrate. A lot. Check bolts at every major servicing.
If you have to use your reserve, don’t forget to put the petcock back to ‘on’ after filling up. You don’t want to push the bike. It will kill your back.
Use the bike’s odometer to gauge when you need to stop for fuel, even if your bike has a fuel gauge.
Get a factory service manual for your bike, even if you have a shop do all the service. They are generally inexpensive, and knowing your machine is an important element in riding safe.
Riding a motorcycle is much more interesting, exciting, entertaining, thrilling, demanding, and fatiguing than riding a car. Don’t expect to ride 600 miles per day on a crotch rocket until you’re actually done it.
The sportier the bike, the less time you can ride it without a break from the numbing vibration/ harsh suspension/ cramped position.
Motorcycling is a unique, diverse, and challenging experience. Mastering it is one of the most rewarding experiences that doesn’t require a member of the opposite sex. Inclusion of the opposite sex is highly recommended, as long as its not diverting your undivided attention to the road.
Riding in groups is fun. The newest riders should lead the group. They need to become accustomed to deciding where to go, identify hazards, and be responsible for other riders. New riders in the back of a group learn to fixate on the rear tire of the person in front of them. (This was a factor in my wreck).
The testosterone level in a male rider in a group is equal to the sum of the testosterone levels of all the males riding in a group. Don’t push yourself beyond your means.
As dangerous and scary as all these things make motorcycling sound, there is still nothing like it, and its completely worth it, as long as you do the right things to mitigate the risks involved.
Have fun!
[Modified by falconGSR, 5:19 AM 12/23/2001]
[Modified by falconGSR, 5:20 PM 12/23/2001]
[Modified by falconGSR, 4:54 PM 12/24/2001]
12-22-2001, 11:46 PM
#4
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (falconGSR)
No man, its a surprise. Just wait till you get back to texas and your gonna flip out when you see it. Trust me, you'll like it. I think you will be more excited than I was when I bought it. Be patient my friend....
art
art
12-23-2001, 06:57 AM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (Flamenco-T)
The bike its so nice. Its a yellow and black honda CBR 600 F4. Joe I cant wait until he shows it to you, its so nice out of the box.
MB
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12-23-2001, 09:51 PM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (falconGSR)
all great advice! I totalled a CBR600 a couple years ago, thanks to a woman on a cell phone in an SUV. I only tore my ACL in my left knee and had a lot of road burn, the bike on the other hand got it a lot worse. I never replaced it, but I'm starting to get the itch again for a new one.
12-24-2001, 08:51 AM
#10
What is this crap?
Thread Starter
Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (RealTegGirl)
damn nice novel
Don't forget to turn the choke off once the bike is warmed up. I did this when I took you for a ride. I felt too stupid to say anything even though the bike felt like it was down on power. hahah
12-24-2001, 08:55 PM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (falconGSR)
GREAT POST Joe! a few comments...
The best book on riding... http://store.yahoo.com/motobooks/twisofwrisvi.html
Yes, read the hurt study... http://www.magma.ca/~macmarms/Hurt.shtml
The rear brake is only used to ballance the front brake. For the last few seconds before a stop I sometimes use full rear brake to keep the front from diving.
Braking in a turn is a survival reaction which leads to a highside crash (the bad kind). VERY DEADLY. NEVER BRAKE IN A TURN. ADD MORE LEAN and keep the throtle rolled "ON". This keeps the rear down where it should be. I would be dead now if I did not know about this. I came into a sweeping turn "hot" (around 100MPH) and almost reverted to brakes. My mind took over from my brain stem fortunatley.
OR punch right go right, punch left, go left.
Left turn:
===---0---===
^^^
push
The wheel initially points out of the turn to overcome centrifugal force.
Possibly the best source for counter steer information and any other bike technique for that matter: http://www.msgroup.org/TIP048.html
With bigger displacement bikes on urban streets ride with the engine close to the power band for the reason stated as well as regulating speed so you don't jump over the limit if you hit a bump etc. (you hear the engine which helps regulate speed) DONT ride in blind spots, stay ahead of a car drivers door so they always SEE you.
the front wheel is there for a reason, and its not to spin off the ground in the air.
Generaly true IF you crash. Turns AND speed are more dangerous. If you don't encounter a hazard on your way to the curb, or get run over by a cage on the ground. A lowsider should be surivable with good gear at speed. A sign or guard rail can act like a machete on your body 
frame sliders save the frame. not the plastic.
Lets ride when you get back.
[Modified by figment, 12:06 AM 12/25/2001]
The best book on riding... http://store.yahoo.com/motobooks/twisofwrisvi.html
More fatalities are caused by oncoming cars making left turns in front of you than any other traffic situation.
front brake is 80% of braking. If you get on the rear brake hard you’ll skid and wreck. They make you experience this in the MSF course.
If you brake really hard while the bike is leaned over in a sharp turn, the bike will stand up. Always be aware of your entry speed into a turn.
Countersteering: Above 10mph, push right go right. Push left, go left. It will make sense when you give it a try.
Left turn:
===---0---===
^^^
push
The wheel initially points out of the turn to overcome centrifugal force.
Possibly the best source for counter steer information and any other bike technique for that matter: http://www.msgroup.org/TIP048.html
When you get surrounded by 1, 2 or more cars, in an urban setting with side streets and / or a shared turn lane in the middle, its ok to downshift and get the RPMs up in case you need to make an evasive maneuver.
Wheelies can turn into you falling off the back of the bike quickly. Technically its called a high moment of inertia, non-technically its referred to as: you just fell on your *** and your bike is probably totalled up since its tumbling end over end down the road.
The faster you go, the higher the chances of serious injury or fatality. Its not a linear relationship though. Generally speaking, above 50mph is when the chances of serious injury increase dramatically.
Plastic fairings are expensive. Look into frame sliders.
Lets ride when you get back.
[Modified by figment, 12:06 AM 12/25/2001]
12-24-2001, 11:41 PM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (figment)
Lets all ride...I dont highway ride tho, gotta be on the side streets because I dont trust them crazy *** texas drivers...
art
art
12-24-2001, 11:57 PM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (RealTegGirl)
Art, what are you doing buying a bike like that. You should have bought my Ninja 500. heh
Mike
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12-25-2001, 04:02 PM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (Arturbo)
What kind of bike did you get? A CBRF4i?
Joe and I have riden out north of Plano. Thats pretty good, with lots of low traffic. You just have to watch the road where parts of it drop off due to large trucks rutting the asphalt. I know those roads like the back of my hand by now though
. Lake Ray Roberts is a good area too.
Joe and I are also planning a trip into the Ozarks too. Prolly trailering up there...
Joe and I have riden out north of Plano. Thats pretty good, with lots of low traffic. You just have to watch the road where parts of it drop off due to large trucks rutting the asphalt. I know those roads like the back of my hand by now though
. Lake Ray Roberts is a good area too.Joe and I are also planning a trip into the Ozarks too.
Prolly trailering up there...
12-26-2001, 01:08 PM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (falconGSR)
Chicken strips are the unused parts of the tire that are furthest from the center. Don’t judge riders based on how thick their chicken strips are. Some riders can have large chicken strips and will burn you in the corners. Its all about the lean.
Another thing about riding...and this is the most important thing you will ever learn:
"RIDE WITHIN YOUR LIMITS"
Please heed this piece of advice cuz i dont want to hear about other riders going down due to rider error. there has been too much of that lately in my group. Remember that this is motorcycling, not import racing. There are no rivalries here, and every rider is as a brother to each other. Ride Safe.
P.S.
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wheelies can turn into you falling off the back of the bike quickly. Technically its called a high moment of inertia, non-technically its referred to as: you just fell on your *** and your bike is probably totalled up since its tumbling end over end down the road.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the front wheel is there for a reason, and its not to spin off the ground in the air.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wheelies can turn into you falling off the back of the bike quickly. Technically its called a high moment of inertia, non-technically its referred to as: you just fell on your *** and your bike is probably totalled up since its tumbling end over end down the road.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the front wheel is there for a reason, and its not to spin off the ground in the air.
[Modified by gsxr for yo momma, 2:12 PM 12/26/2001]
12-26-2001, 01:23 PM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (gsxr for yo momma)
front wheels that are off the ground extend the lifespan of the tire..
12-26-2001, 02:00 PM
#17
What is this crap?
Thread Starter
Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (gsxr for yo momma)
unused means untested. Im just trying to clarify something, and not getting into a debate with you. A person's chicken strip does indeed give you an indication of the level of competence of a particular rider.
I don't think the chicken strips are a good indicator of riding experience/skill. They are good for parking lot BS I suppose.
The first night i got my bike, i didnt know how to shift my wieght in corners so i just leaned the bike and my body (spine straight in line with bikes vertical axis)and i scrubbed off all my chicken strips (AND scraped a peg!) - and I can tell you I am far from a competent rider.
Joe
12-27-2001, 06:41 AM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (figment)
http://blade.bikepics.com/820crew-CB...rash-23sec.mpg
http://bandit.bikepics.com/XtreemeMo...rash-14sec.wmv
A few nice ways to blow 10 grand.
[Modified by figment, 10:03 AM 12/27/2001]
http://bandit.bikepics.com/XtreemeMo...rash-14sec.wmv
A few nice ways to blow 10 grand.
[Modified by figment, 10:03 AM 12/27/2001]
12-27-2001, 10:21 AM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (falconGSR)
FalconGSr..
I dont know about you, but when i took physics, it says that when the force going towards the outside is greater than the force pushing down..the bike will tip toward the outside..inertia force i think its called? Anyhow...i know what you're talking about when it comes to leaning body more than bike to retain the most amount of traction( only time you really need to do that is in rainy weather), but when speed + inertia force = more lean angle..im incline to go by the seat of my pants and lean the bike more regardless of how much less traction ill be getting. But you do have a point. I guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
Life is boring if you dont add excitement to spice things up.
i just noticed my status.. " know-it-all-pro-racer" LOL!!
hahahhahaha funny shiet *bow*
[Modified by gsxr for yo momma, 11:25 AM 12/27/2001]
I dont know about you, but when i took physics, it says that when the force going towards the outside is greater than the force pushing down..the bike will tip toward the outside..inertia force i think its called? Anyhow...i know what you're talking about when it comes to leaning body more than bike to retain the most amount of traction( only time you really need to do that is in rainy weather), but when speed + inertia force = more lean angle..im incline to go by the seat of my pants and lean the bike more regardless of how much less traction ill be getting. But you do have a point. I guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
haha! good one, but I think MY lifespan is more important!
i just noticed my status.. " know-it-all-pro-racer" LOL!!
hahahhahaha funny shiet
*bow*[Modified by gsxr for yo momma, 11:25 AM 12/27/2001]
12-27-2001, 11:31 AM
#20
What is this crap?
Thread Starter
Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (gsxr for yo momma)
gsxrforyomamma, i dont know. i am still to chickenshit to carry any real speed into a corner. i am afraid if i really lean over with speed, the back end will slide out and i'll be left sitting in the middle of the road. i guess i should go get some boots instead of these shoes and give it a try.
12-27-2001, 11:44 AM
#21
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (falconGSR)
yep..that would definitely help. However i would recommend full leathers if you have the money. Dunno bout the rest of you guys, but my testies grow about twice as big knowing that i if anything goes wrong..its not my skin thats getting jacked. Just my $0.02
( still getta kick outta that "know-it-all-pro-racer" label LOL )
PS: You will never out perform your bike unless you're a wold superbike racer so dont be scared to lean as low as you feel comfotable leaning. Knee dragging isnt for everyone however. Be patient, learn your lines, and get comfy with your bike, the knee dragging will come later on when you lean lower. When going into a corner too hot, dont brake, and dont let off the gas too much. Ease back on the throttle slightly, and counter steer like a ****. Your bike will respond.
[Modified by gsxr for yo momma, 12:48 PM 12/27/2001]
( still getta kick outta that "know-it-all-pro-racer" label LOL )
PS: You will never out perform your bike unless you're a wold superbike racer so dont be scared to lean as low as you feel comfotable leaning. Knee dragging isnt for everyone however. Be patient, learn your lines, and get comfy with your bike, the knee dragging will come later on when you lean lower. When going into a corner too hot, dont brake, and dont let off the gas too much. Ease back on the throttle slightly, and counter steer like a ****. Your bike will respond.
[Modified by gsxr for yo momma, 12:48 PM 12/27/2001]
12-27-2001, 11:45 AM
#22
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (gsxr for yo momma)
FalconGSr..
I dont know about you, but when i took physics, it says that when the force going towards the outside is greater than the force pushing down..the bike will tip toward the outside..inertia force i think its called? Anyhow...i know what you're talking about when it comes to leaning body more than bike to retain the most amount of traction( only time you really need to do that is in rainy weather), but when speed + inertia force = more lean angle..im incline to go by the seat of my pants and lean the bike more regardless of how much less traction ill be getting. But you do have a point. I guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
haha! good one, but I think MY lifespan is more important!
Life is boring if you dont add excitement to spice things up.
i just noticed my status.. " know-it-all-pro-racer" LOL!!
hahahhahaha funny shiet *bow*
[Modified by gsxr for yo momma, 11:25 AM 12/27/2001]
I dont know about you, but when i took physics, it says that when the force going towards the outside is greater than the force pushing down..the bike will tip toward the outside..inertia force i think its called? Anyhow...i know what you're talking about when it comes to leaning body more than bike to retain the most amount of traction( only time you really need to do that is in rainy weather), but when speed + inertia force = more lean angle..im incline to go by the seat of my pants and lean the bike more regardless of how much less traction ill be getting. But you do have a point. I guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
haha! good one, but I think MY lifespan is more important!
Life is boring if you dont add excitement to spice things up.
i just noticed my status.. " know-it-all-pro-racer" LOL!!
hahahhahaha funny shiet
*bow*[Modified by gsxr for yo momma, 11:25 AM 12/27/2001]
It's the kind of broken logic expressed in that old saying, "I refuse to tiptoe through life only to arrive safely at the end of it-". Death is not always the reward of the daring.
I know you understand this already, I just like to state the obvious Kinda like John Madden
The real problem with too much lean is not traction as you and falcon are thinking about. Its the leverage created by parts of the bike other than the tires when they contact the pavement. Interesting things happen very quickly when a peg hits the ground and grabs.
12-27-2001, 11:57 AM
#23
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (figment)
In regards to pegs hitting the ground and grabbing....you wont ever have that happen unless you're leaning the bike more than 45degrees over, and again..you will never need to lean it that far unless you're a superbike racer. Anyhow even if you do have to lean it to the point where the pegs are scraping, most factory rearsets ( footpegs for those who dunno the jargon) are designed to break-away or bend upward. this prevents you from hitting the pavement and digging in. However if you have the attack, or Arrow aftermarket rearsets with the rigid pegs, and you do bite pavement....better get used to highsides ( getting tossed over the bike).
In regards to your comment about tiptoeing through life blah blah blah...you have a very good point. death isnt something to joke about, and ive lost alotta friends to accidents, and being stupid. But when i say " add a lil bit of spice to your life" i meant it in a way that you should have fun, without going over the limit. Know Thyself. And about leaning over vs contact patch...Unlike a car, where too much negative camber induces smaller contact patches, a bike's rear and front tire are rounded, and so if you were to think about it that way, the contact patch is maintained throughout the lean angles up untill that point where you lean too much and there isnt anymore rubber...hence the lowside. Im not sure if im explaining this correctly..but if you guys want ill do a lil drawing to show you what i mean. Dont be scared to lean, its all part of riding.
In regards to your comment about tiptoeing through life blah blah blah...you have a very good point. death isnt something to joke about, and ive lost alotta friends to accidents, and being stupid. But when i say " add a lil bit of spice to your life" i meant it in a way that you should have fun, without going over the limit. Know Thyself. And about leaning over vs contact patch...Unlike a car, where too much negative camber induces smaller contact patches, a bike's rear and front tire are rounded, and so if you were to think about it that way, the contact patch is maintained throughout the lean angles up untill that point where you lean too much and there isnt anymore rubber...hence the lowside. Im not sure if im explaining this correctly..but if you guys want ill do a lil drawing to show you what i mean. Dont be scared to lean, its all part of riding.
12-27-2001, 12:10 PM
#24
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (gsxr for yo momma)
I have a CBRXX the pegs are hinged, but they also have feelers that kick the pegs up into your boot soles so you feel them scrape before you hit the pegs on the pavement. Not all bikes are the same, pegs or exhaust may hit first. Good stuff.
Here's a CBR600 which gets caught and slips... http://blade.bikepics.com/Eli-CBR600-Wreck-8sec.mpg
[Modified by figment, 3:14 PM 12/27/2001]
Here's a CBR600 which gets caught and slips... http://blade.bikepics.com/Eli-CBR600-Wreck-8sec.mpg
[Modified by figment, 3:14 PM 12/27/2001]
12-27-2001, 12:41 PM
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Re: What I have learned about motorcycling. (figment)
ouchhh...that looks painful.. 
Most sports bikes will not have any exhaust system or piping that will be in the way of leaning. Only cruisers and touring bikes seem to have that problem. Im sure there are a few exceptions, but i cant think of any. anyway, i have attempted to illustrate what im talking about below.
[img]www.geocities.com/groomwerkz/rearetDiagram.jpg[/img]
[img]www.geocities.com/groomwerkz/carvsbiketire.jpg[/img]
guess the pics arent gonna work..sorry..
[Modified by gsxr for yo momma, 2:00 PM 12/27/2001]
Most sports bikes will not have any exhaust system or piping that will be in the way of leaning. Only cruisers and touring bikes seem to have that problem. Im sure there are a few exceptions, but i cant think of any. anyway, i have attempted to illustrate what im talking about below.
[img]www.geocities.com/groomwerkz/rearetDiagram.jpg[/img]
[img]www.geocities.com/groomwerkz/carvsbiketire.jpg[/img]
guess the pics arent gonna work..sorry..
[Modified by gsxr for yo momma, 2:00 PM 12/27/2001]