Olias

LOL I hear ya. Thanks again for the details. I will proceed accordingly. Happy Easter friend.

-BH-

Olias

Well shoot. I FINALLY got that dumb rubber plug out....what a pain, but no matter what I try I can not get a socket on the tensioner nut for the life of me. There's like next to no room to manipulate a socket and wrench plus the bolt is at about the exact same level where 2 belts kind of criss-cross and really hinders things. I thought I had it on a couple times but the socket kept slipping off the bolt and felt like I may have been close (if I didn't actually do it) to rounding it off a little so I've stopped for now. Really sucks that the bolt is basically recessed. So...that's where I'm currently stuck.

P.S.
It is a 14mm bolt, right?

OneBadTurboCRV

Yep, 14mm head - to make your life easier make sure you use a six point socket; it will help keep it from slipping off. Yeah, it's a pain for sure but it's definitely doable as is. If you want some more wiggle room then use a long 1/4" ratchet or even remove the power steering pump if need be. I guess I should have mentioned it basically requires a high tooth count wratchet in the CRV chassis, but there is always improvisation.

Happy Easter to you too bud!

Olias

It's been a few days now since I reported back, sorry about that, and I didn't want to leave anyone hanging that may be following this thread, especially OneBadTurbo who has been so patient and helpful. So, I'm still dead in the water. Nothing I have tried so far has worked. I wasn't able to get the Tensioner bolt for the timing belt broken loose so I had to abandon trying to reset the timing. As it stands one Cam is still one tooth (maaaybe 2) off from TDC but my understanding is that this would not cause the current no start situation. I thought it was best to put everything back together before I forgot where everything went. Just for good measure when I was all done I put another brand new set of spark plugs in just in case the others were to fouled. No luck. Still cranks like a champ but just won't catch and turn over. It aaaaalmost does, it's soooo close but just doesn't. You would swear it's just not getting either spark or gas but that's not the case as proven with the fuel pressure test, not to mention the smell of gas after repeated cranking, the new spark plugs, new distributor, and fuel filter. Anyway....I'm absolutely stumped and at wits end and had to just step away from it this week. So that's where I'm at guys. Although feeling completely defeated and ready to give up if I have to I am still open to any other ideas or suggestions you may have. Thanks.

OneBadTurboCRV

Have you checked for spark by laying the spark plug attached to a spark plug wire on a grounding point while cranking?

Also, please remember I said ONE tooth... two teeth may be enough to not let it start as that is about 21* off centerline. Also, when you tried starting it did you open up the exhaust?

What happens if you try to start it while cracking the throttle or even going wide open with the throttle?

What do the plugs look like after you try to start it? Pull them right away to see if they are covered in raw fuel.

Olias

Hey there Turbo, thanks for hangin' in there with me. Yes, I did test the spark plug wires initially by using both a spark plug tester (the kind that is a spark plug looking device that has a gap that you can open and close) and also by just holding the wire with a screw driver stuck into the wire and held next to the manifold. As I remember I got spark from each wire but was never sure if it was really blue/white like it's supposed to be or more orange. Anyway, regardless I have decided to go get a brand new set of wires here in a few minutes so I can eliminate the possibility of poor spark. That means I will have new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new distributor, and new fuel filter. The fuel pump is confirmed to be working by way of the pressure check, the sound of the main relay clicking and the sound of the fuel pump itself whirring. So to me unless that cam is actually 2 teeth off and causing the no start, and DON'T quote me on that because to me it looks like one tooth, I'm honestly thinking it's more of a sensor or ECU thing that just isn't sending the correct signal at the right time. But, I can't prove that nor do I know what sensor(s) etc. to check. Yes, I will try unhooking the cat just for laughs and giggles. On another note I can't figure why I couldn't bust the tensioner bolt loose since it's only supposed to be at 40 lbs. Oh well....I'll report back.

-BH-

Olias

Well, a new set of spark plug wires didn't do squat. So now I'm concentrating on removing either the O2 Sensor or CAT. So far no luck with either. The O2 Sensor is orientated such that you can only get it from the top. That end also has the wires sticking out so you need a special socket to get it off. I don't have one, so strike one. I then tried to loosen the bolts on the CAT with no luck either. They are rusted on very nicely. I have some PB Buster soaking on them now waiting for a second try but so far they won't budge. Strike two. So that's where I'm at right now. Oh BTW...you asked about the color of the spark plugs and I forgot to respond. Well, not much to describe...they are just "dark" looking. Not burnt just dark wet looking like they should be after being soaked in gas so many times with all my cranking.

-BH-

OneBadTurboCRV

Well the issue with that is you may not be getting spark or timed appropriately. Too bad you aren't down the road or we could have had this figured out within a couple hours... I am starting to wonder if you would be better off just taking it to a shop.

Heat works wonders and you don't need a special socket for the O2 just a combination wrench. If you did want to go the socket route most parts stores rent that tool. For now, if you have soaked plugs you should remove them and allow the cylinders to air out for a day to let some of the raw fuel to evaporate. Fouled plugs definitely won't help at all either.

It only take 5 things to start a engine - spark, fuel, air, compression, and timing events. It sounds like you have fuel for sure, compression looks good, spark is assumed good, timing is off, and air is unchecked. Have you tried removing the tube before the throttle body just to eliminate that as well?

My concern is the speed you say it cranks over. Your compression numbers are good so the only other things would be fuel or spark. We know you have fuel, soo... Have you tried adjusting the distributor from one extreme to the other? That would be a quick check to see if it coughs or slows down the cranking - at least something is better than nothing.

It's hard sitting behind a computer screen and diagnosing because a lot of assumptions are made. Some of that is assuming the checks being performed are being done correctly (no offense)... So the potential for back tracking increases the longer this drags out.

Olias

I understand completely. Trying to help someone via the internet as opposed to being there in person is pretty frustrating sometimes. I don't take offense either because I'd feel the exact same way if I were the experienced one trying to blindly help someone else so to speak. Trust me when I say that if money were available to take it to a mechanic we would do it in a heart beat but it's not and I'm her only hope at getting it running for her. So, that being what it is I can't give up on it and will trudge on. If you can still help me that would be great but if not I totally understand.

As far as the cranking goes I wouldn't be too concerned. I think I'm just not describing things well sometimes. It's not a "speed" thing that I'm trying to describe like it's freewheeling or something or cranking way to fast etc. I'm just saying that the starter is good and strong and it cranks really great. I totally agree with what you are saying as far as my tests. Maybe I'm not doing some of them correctly and am taking for granted that the fuel pump is good when maybe it's really not etc. Or, what it really feels/sounds like to me is that I may be getting spark but just not quite at the right time which of course would be a timing issue. As far as adjusting the distributor to one extreme or another no I have not done that but will give that a try. I have left the spark plugs out for a few days at a time trying to dissipate as much fuel from the cylinders as possible. Is there any other way of getting rid of accumulated gas? I will also try and apply some heat to the CAT's bolts and continue trying to get that off as well.

I agree....I wish you were down the street as well because I know you'd have figured it out by now. That's what has me so frustrated. I have done many many auto projects for the family over the years and never been down for more than a few days to maybe a week while waiting for parts. So onward I go because I can't give up on this one. Thanks again for all your help. Sorry this project is such a PITA.

Olias

Okay...didn't want to leave anybody that might be following this thread hanging so I thought I'd report the end result. Turns out that no, the timing cam being off by one tooth wasn't what was causing the no start problem. It was....drum roll.....a solidly plugged up Catalytic Converter. Isn't that the way it always work!? That was the last thing I was told here to check by OneBadTurbo and did indeed try but couldn't bust the bolts loose. A Mechanic was able to thank God so he will be replacing that as well as doing the timing belt/water pump job for me. Pretty pricy but I'm glad to be done with this particular project.

I'd like to thank anyone and everyone who conrtibuted and especially to OneBadTurbo. The every day Joe's out here like myself really appreciate those in the know that are willing to take the time to help us and impart their knowledge. Hats off to ya!

-BH-

OneBadTurboCRV

My first post in this thread:

LOL! You are very welcome!!! Well at least you got it figured out finally and my advice was on point.

Thanks for the update though, I appreciate closure haha! Until next time!!!