Snafu-Si

My rear end suddenly started RATA TAT TAT Tattling. I looked under the rear muff and saw this little spring dancing around.

The spring on the right.

It appears as if there was a nut missing, but that bolt swells that no regular nut would fit on it and hold it down. The other side spring seems fine, but the right side of the picture spring is kind of dancing around.

Snafu-Si

Yes, I'm aware my rear end link to my rear sway is broken!

CO671

iTrader: (1)

Is this for a 2nd-gen CRV?
If so here's a picture I found of the exhaust assembly:

Part #: 18231-S10-003
Referred to as: BOLT, FLEXIBLE JOINT
About $20-$30

I'm not too sure.... I'll need some clarification here but I think that's the kind of bolt for un-bolting the muffler from the piping so you can bolt-on another muffler. I've seen that before on my 99 Civic towards the down-pipe right after the cat I believe (a spring wrapped around a bolt)

NZ-DB8R

Its the honda version of a flexi join.

The bracket and springs allow the muffler to seal onto the rest of the exhaust but still bend and flex and the engine and this exhaust moves around.

There is another where the headers meet the cat.

SO basically it bolts the muffler to the exhaust as is fairly obvious by where its located

Snafu-Si

its for a first gen CR-V. 1999

But the question is, was there a pre existing nut that held on, on the other side? I looked at the other spring and it appears to have some kind of........ swollen, something, its so corroded I'm not sure what the hell I was looking at. But it was at least big enough that it held that flange down tight on the other spring to keep it somewhat compressed.

What happened to my nut! Was there even a nut?

O_o

CO671

iTrader: (1)

Oh well. Same part number
#18231-S10-003
i don't think it comes with the bolts though

CO671

iTrader: (1)

I went out to check mine, since it's a 98 CRV. 1st gen too.
My bolts seems to be stripping/going out too. They're both 12mm, or what's left of them, lol.

Snafu-Si

What you have still seem to resemble nuts though!

Mine doesn't seem to resemble anything.

Hmmm I'll have to think of something clever for the time being!

CO671

iTrader: (1)

Indeed.
Duct Tape! Duct tape has to help somehow! Good luck with the little fix.

Snafu-Si

lol, i did a temp fix and drove it around and it seems to be working for the most part. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow.

MonkeyMagic

+1 for rusted out and gone. but i'd expect nothing else from a honda exhaust.

Snafu-Si

FIXED BABY!!!!

And Plastic don't rust. Yeeeeee hAWWWWWWW!!!



Its actually holding for the time being. I'm actually expecting it to melt, but its held up with the whole days driving so far. I'm probably going to get a small metal hose clamp and squeeze it tight closed at some point but for now this is working.

G H E T T O.

CO671

iTrader: (1)

Aha! That's surprising. Good job on the quick fix. It's hurts me to see how much rust you have under there

Snafu-Si

Yeah, that's what the dealership and the local auto shop told me too. All those years of Michigan winters really pounded the under-body. I don't really know what I can do about it now. The dealership said if they believe that removing the suspension parts to do maintenance would mean the parts would break because of the massive corrosion. They said if they had to do that, they would "have to" replace all the suspension components. Pretty much work that more than what the car is worth they said. Seems sad considering the car is still mostly running well.

The local auto shop thought the bleeder screws would snap because of the wear. But when they bled the brakes when they replaced the lines, they said the screws held strong to their surprise.

I really don't know what I can do about it,

I was thinking of just cleaning it up the best I can, and spraying some underbody spray that puts a ... rubber coating, or some kind of whatever coating it is out of a can on some key areas. I'm not sure how much it'll help, but at least somewhat I hope.

The sway bar endlink has already broken off on the passenger side, and I'm not sure on the condition of the sway bar itself. I've thought about installing some inexpensive aftermarket sway bar in the rear eventually.

I'd love for magically all the rusty pieces to be replaced and I can continue driving my CR-V for a million miles. But I'm afraid that its only got a few years before it finally goes kaput. I really like the new generation CR-Vs but I don't have that kind of money, I don't have any money.

Any suggestions for sprucing up the underbody are welcomed.

For now the only plans for my V are:

New Cap and rotor,
New plug wires,
Valve adjustment

The dealership service writer claims, that a valve adjustment isn't "NECESSARY" UNLESS I'm hearing funny sounds and a weird idle. Of course by then, they'll say that I have bent valves, and etc, and my car is toast and that its not worth it and I should buy a new car. riiiight.

I've read that the interval for the valve adjustment on the V's were notoriously inputting incorrectly. That the manual claims something like every 100,000 miles or something, but in reality should be something like every 50k miles, if not less. I checked the service record on my V, it looks like its last valve adjustment was at 48k miles, So I'm due for one. I might try doing it myself and save the money. There are some so so walkthroughs. I think I just need a feeler gauge.

MonkeyMagic

rust converter maybe? then paint?

never actually had to use it myself.. but seems like a great idea for you.

NZ-DB8R

You can make the bolts.

Just take a normal M6 bolt and one large washer.
Put the washer onto the bolt, put the spring on, put it through the braket and flange and attach a nut.

ARMED

whats ma hickey?????? ive been thinking?

yeah, just get a long bolt with a flat washer..if the springs is broken, use like a valve spring if you have one laying around