Johnnyrox

So I finally bit the bullet and tried my hand at the swap that no one knows or has actually done, but many people "say it should work".

It's all installed but no start HELP!

Background
Vehicle is a 98 CRV automatic from Canada
Engine, ECM and wiring harness is from a 2001 CRV automatic from canada.

The car has two wire connections coming out of the drivers side firewall which I think are involved with the A/t gear selector switch.
The new harness is missing one of those connectors that has all the wire colors that coincide with the Haynes manual (I know not the greatest manual).
The other connector is missing all but one wire pertaining to the gear indicators.

Another reason why I think my no start is gear related is because when I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump turn on and then not even a click when I turn the key all the way.
The gear light indicator says that it is in D4 and then the key will not turn out all the way as if you turned your car off while leaving it gear.

These colors of wires are missing from the new harness, and what I believe they relate to.

Light green - ignition control switch of some sort.
Blue/black - Park
White- Reverse
Red/black - Neutral
Pink - D3
Blue - D2 ( I went with D2 for consistency)
Brown- D1

The only color that is there is Yellow (D4) which is what the gear indicator thinks is in.


Then on the green connection coming from the ECM the missing colors of wires are in there while they are not in the old hareness' green conection.

Anyone have any suggestion on steps to take or a quick place to find a better word schematic. I

Thanks and sorry for a long and probably confusing thread,but I am getting a beating from this car.

Doogz403

I think the problem is that you are using a new wiring harness and ECU.

Whenever I swap engines I re-use all of the old wiring and peripherals, just swap the actual engine.

tony_2018

Yes, reuse your original harness and ecu. It will work fine.

edit:I removed some text.

Johnnyrox

I got the old harness back in and ran a wire for the knock sensor. It now turns over but no spark. It is getting fuel and spark it just doesn't want to go. I tried with both ECU and still no luck.

When I have the key in the run position I can hear a humming coming from the distributor.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

tony_2018

old harness AND ecu?

Johnnyrox

Yup. The old one is back in. I tried with both and still no luck.

Johnnyrox

The car sounds like it wants to go but just won't and gives a few backfires.

It is backfiring in the intake not the exhaust.

Before I installed the motor I changed the timing belt and I am pretty sure I did it right.

These are the steps I took when doing the timing belt just in case anyone can spot something that could of happened when I did it.
Put the car in tdc,
I removed sparkplugs, and valve cover
I put a wooden dowel in the #1 sparkplug hole and turned it CC until it the timing mark on the timing cover and pulley were in line when the piston push the dowel all the way up, checked the dizzy rotor and it was pointing at the #1 spot and the cam gears were in the up position
Removed the pulley using the specific tool and an impact.
Removed the timing covers.
Temporarly put the crank shaft bolt back on.
Turned the cranks shaft a few times and then lined everything up again with the marks.
I set some 3/16 pins in the cam holes to keep them from moving.
Loosened the tensioner and removed the belt.
Installed the new belt as per the Hanes manual and tightened everything back up.

When I was installing the belt the crank shaft moved just slightly to allow for the belts to be placed on the cam gears. The up marks might be a c hair from exactly straight up but I couldn't get the belt on any other way.
Is this normal? All the you tube videos I see do the same thing.

I never moved the distributor on the new engine at all.
How can I tell if out of time if I can get it running?

This is driving me crazy.

Johnnyrox

I AM AN IDIOT!!!!!!

I have been so exhausted lately that I kept doing the firing order 1234 instead of 1342

I kept checking and still going back to 1234 ( I need some rest)

I will see if it actually drives tomorrow.

tony_2018

I've been there. No need to exhaust yourself over a swap.

Johnnyrox

It runs and drives awesome. Night and day over the old tired and neglected motor. I drove home from where I did the swap; 1 1/2 hours at highway speeds and it was perfect.
Although the last 20 minutes it seemed as if the fans were staying on even when the temp went below the cold mark. I did break the heater control valve and put a straight piece of abs pipe to get me going until I fine a valve at a wrecker; so that may have something to do with it?

Thanks for the help and I will do a full write up so the B20b to B20z questions can have some more answers.