Myechtatel

I bought my CR-V a few days ago and I need to replace the rear motor mount. I bought the mount but after looking at it I can't figure out how the hell to get it out! I tried multiple extensions to get to the bolts but i couldnt get enough torque to break them loose. It felt like i was going to break the ratchet and/or extensions. i also tried going from under the car to get to them but there is not enough room. My Haynes manual doesn't give any specific directions aside from lifting the engine(obviously). The broken mount doesnt seem to cause any problems but you can see the engine tilt up and down when shifting(auto trans) because the inside(rubber?) is torn apart. anyway I dont want to keep driving it like this please help!

OneBadTurboCRV

It's not hard at all to replace. It is much easier to remove the T-bracket bolts to move it out of the way though. This rear mount is much easier than say an EF where sometimes it is easier to drop the rear crossmember. I use 1/2" ratchets and extensions either way, but until you break something you aren't trying hard enough.

Myechtatel

i was using a 3/8" ratchet because i didnt have a 1/2 extension long enough. what is the 't bracket' you are referring to? thanks

OneBadTurboCRV

The "T" bracket gets its nickname because it looks like a "T" sort of. It is the bracket that connects the engine/transmission to the rear engine mount. You really should be using 1/2" tool for this job. Go purchase the extensions needed and you will have them forever.

See #6

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...OUNTS+%28AT%29

Myechtatel

hmm, i dont even remember seeing that thing. is there anything else that needs to be removed to get that mount out? also how do i get the 1/2 extension down in there? there is too much stuff in the way, brake lines and random crap i could barely get the 3/8" down there. do you know of any video or any kind of instructions of all to help me understand this? i looked everywhere and found nothing

OneBadTurboCRV

No, it is pretty basic change just in a tough location. Wobble heads and or universal joints and if you don't have thin walled sockets then adapt down to 3/8s at the very bottom. When the engine is out I use a 1/2/ impact all the time to remove the engine mount bolts. Sounds like you don't wrench very much. I don't know how much more help I can be.

Myechtatel

I've never done a motor mount before. I've done maintenance and minor repairs. timing belts, suspension upgrades, tune ups, etc. I'll look at it again and maybe go buy some tools.

tony_2018

It takes patience, but you have to unbolt the T bracket from the the transmission and from the mount. thank you have to maneuver it around to unbolt the mount itself.

Myechtatel

I had a friend of mine do it today for a small fee. he had the proper tools(airgun and extension) and the whole process took less than 20 minutes. We did not have to remove the T bracket though.

ludesrv

I replaced all of mine without air tools or removing anything other then the mounts. The rear mine is tricky but extensions go a long way. The rear mount is mostly clear from the top, just need long extensions. I stacked about 2 feet of extension to make it work. Did all 5 mounts in 1 hour.

OneBadTurboCRV

It depends on how bad your other mounts are. I have AVID Racing torque mounts and it doesn't give enough to slip out the mount - either way the T-bracket is easy enough to remove either way. CRV's have quite a bit more room than other chassis back there.

KPDSM

This is good to see...I'm getting ready to do my rear and passenger mount soon. I'm going to try an OEM replacement this first time, but I suspect my suspension + strut bar + basic bolt ons are putting a lot of stress on the OEM style mount. If I rip the rear one again, I'll go aftermarket. I think 1320 performance makes custom-ish aftermarket RD1 mounts that mimic the RD1 mounts better than EK aftermarket mounts.

I actually HAVE an ef with b series swap - last time I did a rear mount in it, it was definitely tricky. After I figured out how to squeeze everything in I could probably do it faster now.
When I initially installed it I didn't have an intake manifold on it, so it was cake.

Anyway, I hope to have that rear mount and passenger mount done in 2ish or less hours from what you guys have said here. Will report back.

KPDSM

I just finished doing my rear mount and everything turbocrv says about it is true. I removed all the bolts from the t bracket to get it loose then snuck a 1/2inch 14 with a couple wobbles and extensions down to get the 3 bolts to the actual mount itself. I had to flip the mount upside down to sneak it out, and literally installation is reverse of removal. remember to hand start bolts before zapping/tightening any down, especially if using aftermarket mounts as they wont have much give and bolts wont line up. i had to use a prybar to move the engine around to start the bottom t bracket bolt, once that happened it was cake to put back together.