crxaddikt

i had a check engine light and a code 7 (TPS), even know car drove fine, and the same as before without any problems, then i pulled the hazard fuse in the engine bay fusebox, resetting the ecu, to clear the code, then next time starting the car, i noticed the check engine light and the code both went away after pulling the fuse,

so when you clear a code after pulling the fuse, what does that mean exactly ?,

i mean, is the problem gone as long as the engine light or code does'nt come back again ?, or could the problem still be there even if you don't have the engine light or code anymore too ?

nicknack25

Well let me ask you this. Have you changed or messed with your tps recently? How long have you driven the car after pulling the hazard fuse? If you really do have a bad tps, then of course the problem will still be there. You can try testing it.

http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=21792

crxaddikt

no, i've never ever messed with or changed the TPS, i actually no nothing about them,

i've driven the car almost 2 weeks now since pulling the fuse, and no engine light or code has come back yet.

crxaddikt

what led me to see the "code 7" was cause i was troubleshooting why my car did'nt start earlier that day, i was driving in 100 degree heat for 2 hours, then stopped at jack & box, then after car did'nt start (sounded like no crank, similar to having dead battery), anso tried getting jumped but still did'nt start, so had to walk home, but later went back to car to troubleshoot, but started on 1st try !, then i noticed a check engine light which was'nt there before, and then i saw the ECU had a "code 7", but does'nt seem like the TPS has anything to do with car not starting would it ???,
to me it seems like a main relay type of symptom, since did'nt start when hot, but started later after had time to cool, plus my battery tested out at 12.78volts, so battery was'nt dead or drained.

also, i have a ZC dohc motor, which was swapped in 2003, and i heard a lot of people say that when ZC's arrive being imported, a lot have damaged or messed up TPS sensors for some reason, but if mine was then it would seem like i would of had that code 7 sometime a lot earlier, if ive had the ZC 11 years,

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

To put it bluntly, if the CEL isn't triggered immediately then it means the problem/condition that caused the CEL hasn't reoccured. Sometimes trouble shooting certain things like this is tough when they can't be recreated or the issue is inconsistent. If it's still driving fine without triggering a CEL then keep on going but since you know it's potentially the TPS you can at least prepare yourself.

crxaddikt

yeah it can be hard to find out what it is if its one of those intermittent type things, but at least for now it seems to be fine, but also there might be a chance the TPS just acted up that day to cause the code, from driving long periods of time in hot 100 degree weather, cause some things and sensors can be affected from heat.

one thing i should at least do is check the wiring going to the TPS to make sure they are all good, and follow where it leads to the ECU maybe just to see if all the wiring is ok, also look at the TPS and and see if its plugged in or connected securely, and i can try testing the TPS with my multimeter, i have the steps to do that, to see if it reads the correct voltage.

so, would you say that my TPS code has nothing to do with why my car did'nt start that day?

all i know is that the TPS is a sensor that sends information to the ECU depending on how wide your opening the throttle, with your foot on the pedal, and that does'nt sound like something related in any way to starting the car ???, am i right ?

skwigelf

Been wondering how to pull the MIL code but have read and seen different things. Have seen someone briefly do it on my 91 dpfi wagon and they turned the ignition accessory on and off a certain amount of times and it flashed a certain number... they knew what it was and went to the problem. later on (months) it came back briefly and i couldnt figure out how to get the flash sequence. i read in my haynes but it only gives you the code description, not how to access the code. ive also seen online people putting paper clips in the ecu harness under the glove compartment but the person who checked it didnt even do that... Any help?

~sp33~

Disconnected or faulty TPS will not cause a no-start condition. The car will start and drive with the TPS disconnected.

A code is thrown when a sensor reads outside of a predefined parameter (measured in volts) the TPS measures throttle position as a percentage 0.5V = 0% which will smoothly increase to 100% at 4.5V.

You can test this with a multimeter by sticking the prongs in the back of the plug, bridging the yel/wht wire and red/blu wire. Gradually depress the throttle to see your voltage increase between 0.5 and 4.5V.

If you're not getting those readings, either your TPS is out of adjustment (If it's adjustable) you have a break in the wiring to/from the sensor, or your sensor is bad.

My guess would be a loose wiring connection, or a break in the wire causing a spike in the voltage reading.

crxaddikt

alright, cool, thanks for all the info and your opinions on it, i did'nt think the TPS thing had anything to do with it not starting, and i'm not worried about that it did'nt start that one day, cause its been a long time since it did'nt start, i think it might of just been something like a loose battery cable where it goes around the terminal, cause the guy jumpstarting it said that, but since it started couple hours later once i went back to where my car was, that makes me think it could also be the main relay, cause usually they start acting up when its hot and also when you stop and park to go in a store quick and come back out and does'nt start, but works after letting it sit and cool off, i've only replaced my main relay one time before since having the car since 98, so maybe its about time for this one to be on its way out?

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

You can try resoldering the solder joints inside the relay. There's a good thread somewhere that shows the microscopic solder joint failures. I'd give that a shot first (I did on my own car and haven't had the intermittent no start issue ever since).

crxaddikt

yeah i was on that site, that showed the pictures and everything and how to do it, its weird but after looking closely at the pictures, i still could'nt see exactly which solder joints were the ones they were saying were the bad ones ?, cause they looked too similar ?

but i have been meaning to buy a solder gun and learn how to do my own soldering, so i could fix different things myself.

i don't recall exactly when i replaced my main relay, but i would guess it would of been around 2002 or so ? so it seems like the main relay lasts around 12-14 years before they start going bad about ? since my crx is a 90, and i replaced the original one around 2002, and now its been another 12 years since 2002, and maybe time to replace it again.

not sure if it has anything to do with it, but i have had my main relay dangling by the wire harness, cause i unbolted it from the body where it mounts to it, i did it cause i was going to use it as a cheap anti-theft method, and just unplug the main relay so they can't start the car, and unbolted it so it would be easier to reach and unplug, but i have'nt even used it as anti-theft since i did that anyway, but i wonder if it supposed to be mounted and bolted down to the body, like if it acts as a ground for it ?,
or maybe it knocked loose from where the harness clips into it since it was dangling ?, i should check to make sure its connected good.