wasp9166

i have a 91 civic dx

d15b1

230k, , did valve adjust , timing belt , new alt etc last year

thing runs like a top , but
around town not much of an oil issue

but if i do 85mph for an hour on the highway to and from work i go thru about 3/4 a qt of oil a day

i have some blue smoke on start up , so i'm guessin valve seals leaking oil into cylinder after shut down

can the seals be replaced with each cylinder at tdc?

what's the need for rope, compressed air etc that i keep reading about?

Spug

The rope/air keeps the valves from falling into the cylinder and disappearing.

You'd feed the rope into the spark plug hole, then compress it slightly with the piston to hold the valves in place while you work.

wasp9166

how would the valve fall into cyl at tdc?

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Gravity.


The piston at TDC doesn't mean it's holding the valve in the closed position. In fact if you have piston to valve contact at any point you have a problem.

wasp9166

well, i know there is some space between the head and the piston top, but enough to let the whole stem vanish? couldn't ya grab the stem as you're putting on the new seal?

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

When you see it you'll understand. It wouldn't fall completely in but it would be enough to not have anything to grab onto if you're not careful. Might help to picture installing the retainers, keepers, and compressing the valve springs all at a lower level as opposed to having the valve sticking out (closed position) to give you the most room to work.

wasp9166

i see

does the cam have to be removed or just valve train?

debating, either keep spending $25 a week in oil or do it in spring

only driving the car in winter now so

i guess it's possible i'm getting blow by with the higher rpm, would the seals do the same?

cuz like i said, only consumes oil when run 85mph for an hour twice a day

maybe with the rpm consumption it could be the rings more so?

RanCRX

Blue smoke indicates piston ring wear. Look it up

RanCRX

Well now that I looked it up, they call it "fried piston rings"

wasp9166

mmmmmmmm, shame since i've changed the oil relig every 3k with castrol gtx 5w-30


eh, too much of a guessing game , just gonna switch to valve maxlife 10w-30 and get what i can


well, did some searching , seems everyone says it's seals if it's startup blue smoke

ex

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/blue-smoke-startup-873553/


now, the oil consumption at high rpm is what has me wondering if it's both

sstupid

230K miles was a pretty good run. Definitely piston rings or just worn cylinder walls. I'd say you got your money's worth out of it.

Creator

iTrader: (1)

Leak down test.

wasp9166

was hoping for 300k,lol

bought a 2011 mazda3 sport hatch with 20k for back up

wish honda still made a hatch but, no dice

plan on running this till it dies just for winter, with good snow tires it plows thru anything, and 13" are cheaper than 17"

unbelievable how cheap new cars are, i actually like driving my 20 yr old civic more, even tho i gota put oil in it every day for commuting

eh, thought about it but

i had the valvetrain off last year to replace the spark plug hole seals

should have done valve seals then

sstupid

Keep in mind that you are messing up the air we breathe if you're burning oil. The guys behind you on the highway are probably dying.

DWP_Racing

Blue smoke at startup is valve seals. Will have to remove cams spring retainers etc. If it's a constant blue smoke then its rings. Remove oil pan windage crank rods pistons then replace rings.

DWP_Racing

The issue is on startup so its not rings. Stop giving bad information.... You look it up!

4drEF

Sounds like you might have a combination of problems.
Leakdown test would really help pinpoint the problems.
You are right that smoke during startup is an indicator to the stem seals. When the engine sits for a while, the oil seeps past the worn seal and into
the combustion chamber. It can even happen on deceleration as well as idling at a stop light.

Worn piston rings smoke when driving. You usually get a low number on a compression test as well, but not always. This seems possible since you are losing oil during constant no stop-and-go drives on the highway.

One thing that you have left out is a PCV. If it's malfunctioning and it stuck open or clogged shut, then you will burn oil all the time.

DWP_Racing

^^^ compression test, then leakdown test.

wasp9166

no smoke on highway, runs strong

smoke is on startup for maybe 2 minutes if that

if the cam has to come out it's too much work at this point imo

wasp9166

ironic username

That1guyinvegas

I'm having a similar issue, smoke on startup, and during quick bursts of acceleration or when starting from a dead stop, compression on all cylinders is around 100 psi, give or take 3-5psi, dry compression test, I' m going to run another dry compression test, and then a wet one to see if the compression raises to see if my rings are worn, she is also running really rich, im thinking worn out injector or 2.

SOHC ZC Non-Vtec, DPFI

sstupid

Not really. Do you have soot on your bumper. If so, the issue isn't only on start-up.

RanCRX

The engine has mileage man. Metal to metal contact isn't gonna cure itself. I agree it can be a number of problems, but blue smoke whether start up or not means fried piston rings. That engine needs a rebuild either way. Get over it. The only way you'll find out the truth is if you take the engine out and inspect stuff. Asking for information will only lead to idiotic debates with people who think they know it all when no one is inspecting the actual vehicle

DWP_Racing

Original poster please don't listen to this barracks lawyer!

wasp9166

no,and really