driftam1

is there any info on how to bust the upper ball joint ? i cant seem to get my hub off the upper ball joint and i dont rly want to tear it up caues they r a bich to replace

tico

unscrew the castle nut to where the threads are covered. then take a good size hammer and make 1 good hit on that nut should pop out. by the way the upper ball-joints are a non-serviceable part. it u break it u must replace the entire upper a -arm

djstevehawken

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tico &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> by the way the upper ball-joints are a non-serviceable part. it u break it u must replace the entire upper a -arm</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not true. I bought a new upper ball joint from napa and replaced mine. All you need is a good vise and a ball joint press not that it was easy, but it sure is possible...

EFstyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tico &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by the way the upper ball-joints are a non-serviceable part. it u break it u must replace the entire upper a -arm</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is semi correct depending on the car... 88-89 this is true you have to buy the whole arm... but 90-91 on the other hand, you can replace the ball joint only...

tico

okay thats good to know. i have an 88 hatch and its a non-serviceable part. i didnt know about 90-91 were serviceable

D16SiHatch

The smackin the bolt with the hammer idea isn't probably a smart thing to do. If the ball joints stuck in there like most honda's tend to be, then bangin it with a hammer won't do anything but destroy the threads and you'll never get the nut back on, and then you will be replacing the ball joint. Your best bet is to purchase or rent a pickle fork set with air ratchet connection from autozone or advance auto. With iti had both my ball joints seperated in less than 5 minutes, and as long as your not careless you won't damage the joints much at all.

EFstyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16SiHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The smackin the bolt with the hammer idea isn't probably a smart thing to do. If the ball joints stuck in there like most honda's tend to be, then bangin it with a hammer won't do anything but destroy the threads and you'll never get the nut back on, and then you will be replacing the ball joint. Your best bet is to purchase or rent a pickle fork set with air ratchet connection from autozone or advance auto. With iti had both my ball joints seperated in less than 5 minutes, and as long as your not careless you won't damage the joints much at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

9 times out of 10 you'll end up with torn ball joint boots...

D16SiHatch

mine didnt come out unscathed but i mean they weren't destroyed to the point where i felt they'd be unuseable. Unfortunately however with these tapered balljoints, it seems like a pickle fork becomes a last ditch effort. cause banging on the end of it certainly isn't going to get you anywhere fast, besides to rounded off threads. If you have a massive pry bar i would definately suggest you try that first before opting to use the pickle fork. its certainly a last resort

Tyson

you bang the knuckle wit ha 3lb sledge, not the balljoint, or the threads. it will pop right off.

redsi89

i used a tie rod end tool worked great just tightened it down till it popped the ball joint out no damaged threads no bashing critical suspension components with a hammer. also the pickle fork idea workss good.

rsca_crx

you'll break less stuff doing it the way tyson said. the knuckle has a nice lip that sticks out for this.

for the lower one i do this. i've got a prybar with a squishy handle to keep from chipping the new paint on my knuckles.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859