stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
06-25-2015, 12:37 PM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
my car is a 90 crx si with 255,000 miles on it, with zc dohc motor, which i'm guessing has around 130-150,000+ miles? (approx.)
i have'nt had any problems recently, car has been driving great, last sunday i went to visit my friend who moved away to a small town, and was an hour drive to get there, the speed limit out there was 75, so i was going 80mph+. my tank was almost empty, so i had to get some gas right after leaving my friends place, he said to get gas around corner, but i tried two places and could'nt get them to work, then i found a closed grocery store with gas station out front, called Berkshires, and i got $11 93 octane there, (usually i have gotten 87 or 89 octane in the past for the zc, but recently i've noticed it had more pep in it after putting 93, so i've gotten 93 lately),
then after 20 or 30 minutes into the drive back home, my car started losing power slowly, so i coasted / kind of stalling out over to the shoulder of the highway, and it made some sputtering sounds as it did it.
and i looked at engine bay, hoping did'nt snap timing belt, i tried starting it, and it just was trying, cranking over and over and over, while making sputtering and backfire sounds out the tailpipe ??,
i called my mechanic friend, he told me look at cap and rotor, so i did, and cap looked perfect, and rotor was on securely, enough where it did'nt move when trying to pull it off, but i could'nt find where the screw was for the rotor?, all i saw was a broken piece of plastic on the back of the rotor on the part that slides onto the shaft, and almost looked a little melted around that area too?,
i looked at the plug wires and plugs and looked good, had wires in right order, no eng. bay fuses were blown, timing belt looked good, and when looking at the cams from the side view, they look like they did before, if lining up the horizontal line on the cams with the "UP" arrows both pointing up, but, thats just eyeballing it, and to be totally sure, i should put my timing gun up to it to check the timing and see if it skipped any teeth.
i did'nt see any ECU codes, and i tried starting it with cap off and watched and rotor was spinning when trying to start it, also tried starting it while holding foot down on the gas,
after checking those things, i called my mechanic friend back to tell him, and he asked me where i was and said he's on his way out there to help fix it, so i was glad to hear that since he is good at figuring out and fixing things.
he was close to my area, and asked more details to me, then next time he called me, he said the cops just pulled him over, so i waited, praying they let him go so he can get on with fixing my car, but then he called later and said he was on speaker phone, and that they are taking him to jail for tickets he did'nt pay. just my luck . . . . . . . . .
so i tried a little more checks on my car, but i really had no idea what it was, it was 2:30am when i stalled out, i went to convenience store got something to eat, then around 4:30am i called a tow truck, and it got there around 6am, and towed it to my place. i have'nt looked at it yet, but i was reading other people had same symptoms after finding out the screw for the rotor fell off, but their rotor was spinning freely?, mine does'nt ?, but mine is weird cause had broken plastic around the base? and looked melted? also some people with same symptoms ended up finding their distributor was bad,
just wanted to post my problem to get feedback to help see what it could be ? what i should check ?
thanks
i have'nt had any problems recently, car has been driving great, last sunday i went to visit my friend who moved away to a small town, and was an hour drive to get there, the speed limit out there was 75, so i was going 80mph+. my tank was almost empty, so i had to get some gas right after leaving my friends place, he said to get gas around corner, but i tried two places and could'nt get them to work, then i found a closed grocery store with gas station out front, called Berkshires, and i got $11 93 octane there, (usually i have gotten 87 or 89 octane in the past for the zc, but recently i've noticed it had more pep in it after putting 93, so i've gotten 93 lately),
then after 20 or 30 minutes into the drive back home, my car started losing power slowly, so i coasted / kind of stalling out over to the shoulder of the highway, and it made some sputtering sounds as it did it.
and i looked at engine bay, hoping did'nt snap timing belt, i tried starting it, and it just was trying, cranking over and over and over, while making sputtering and backfire sounds out the tailpipe ??,
i called my mechanic friend, he told me look at cap and rotor, so i did, and cap looked perfect, and rotor was on securely, enough where it did'nt move when trying to pull it off, but i could'nt find where the screw was for the rotor?, all i saw was a broken piece of plastic on the back of the rotor on the part that slides onto the shaft, and almost looked a little melted around that area too?,
i looked at the plug wires and plugs and looked good, had wires in right order, no eng. bay fuses were blown, timing belt looked good, and when looking at the cams from the side view, they look like they did before, if lining up the horizontal line on the cams with the "UP" arrows both pointing up, but, thats just eyeballing it, and to be totally sure, i should put my timing gun up to it to check the timing and see if it skipped any teeth.
i did'nt see any ECU codes, and i tried starting it with cap off and watched and rotor was spinning when trying to start it, also tried starting it while holding foot down on the gas,
after checking those things, i called my mechanic friend back to tell him, and he asked me where i was and said he's on his way out there to help fix it, so i was glad to hear that since he is good at figuring out and fixing things.
he was close to my area, and asked more details to me, then next time he called me, he said the cops just pulled him over, so i waited, praying they let him go so he can get on with fixing my car, but then he called later and said he was on speaker phone, and that they are taking him to jail for tickets he did'nt pay. just my luck . . . . . . . . .
so i tried a little more checks on my car, but i really had no idea what it was, it was 2:30am when i stalled out, i went to convenience store got something to eat, then around 4:30am i called a tow truck, and it got there around 6am, and towed it to my place. i have'nt looked at it yet, but i was reading other people had same symptoms after finding out the screw for the rotor fell off, but their rotor was spinning freely?, mine does'nt ?, but mine is weird cause had broken plastic around the base? and looked melted? also some people with same symptoms ended up finding their distributor was bad,
just wanted to post my problem to get feedback to help see what it could be ? what i should check ?
thanks
06-26-2015, 07:53 AM
#27
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
So are you still not hearing the fuel pump? With the key in the ON(ll) position you should hear the main relay click and fuel pump prime. If it's not I would start there.
06-27-2015, 10:07 PM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
i know, i can't help it, i always end up typing too much detailed information in my posts that are totally unecessary, its just part of my A.D.D. i guess, sometimes i try and edit it down as much as i can to make it as less as possible, but it still ends up a big paragraph!
but sometimes, people say someone did'nt put enough detailed information in their post in order for them to help them, so at least i don't have to worry about that, lol, i am almost putting more than enough detailed information.
but sometimes, people say someone did'nt put enough detailed information in their post in order for them to help them, so at least i don't have to worry about that, lol, i am almost putting more than enough detailed information.
06-27-2015, 10:18 PM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
i was never able to hear any type of sound for the fuel pump priming, but maybe i don't know where to listen exactly? or what to listen for ? i thought people said its like a low "HUMMMM" type of sound ? all i did was turned the key "on", and right away put my ear to the fuel filler hole with the fuel filler door open, and listened carefully, cause thats what it said to do in this manual, but i did'nt hear anything? but i know i heard the main relay clicking for sure, but i also saw fuel coming out of the disconnected hose at the fuel filter after cranking over the car, so does'nt that along with the main relay clicking eliminate the fuel pump being bad ? or not ?
also, i read that if the fuel pump went bad, that you would usually have some symptoms leading up to its failure, such as power cutting off, then back on again and shakeyness when pressing the throttle etc . . . ., and i never had anything like those ?
remember, this problem happened suddenly out of nowhere, after car was driving perfect on the highway, and just slowly started losing power, and stalled while making sputtering sounds, then would'nt start again, so it would'nt be a part that would have symptoms leading up to it failing, it would be some part that can fail suddenly such as what happened to me, and so far the distributor sounds like it would make sense being what went bad.
also, i read that if the fuel pump went bad, that you would usually have some symptoms leading up to its failure, such as power cutting off, then back on again and shakeyness when pressing the throttle etc . . . ., and i never had anything like those ?
remember, this problem happened suddenly out of nowhere, after car was driving perfect on the highway, and just slowly started losing power, and stalled while making sputtering sounds, then would'nt start again, so it would'nt be a part that would have symptoms leading up to it failing, it would be some part that can fail suddenly such as what happened to me, and so far the distributor sounds like it would make sense being what went bad.
06-27-2015, 10:19 PM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
i did buy a new fuel filter from autozone the other day, just since last time i replaced it was in 2004, it was only $15 cause it was duralast, but i don't think it matters if the fuel filter is OEM or not, since its just a filter, and i'm sure both do the job the same way ? it says in the manual to replace the fuel filter every 2 years !, but thats probably not necessary, only if your real **** about things, but i would think you should at least every 60,000 miles at least maybe, but its been over 100,000 miles since i replaced mine last, so it was time for a new one.
06-27-2015, 10:26 PM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
i checked at autozone, and they have an 89 integra distributor brand new but aftermarket for $229, comes with cap & rotor and everything already on it, and lifetime warranty, but i still don't know if i should get it or better getting a used OEM one ? cause i keep hearing everyone say don't get aftermarket and they don't last long at all ? but it seems like they got to last a few years at least since its almost the same and also has lifetime warranty? if i get a used OEM one, then i don't know how old or how many miles it has put on it ? and might just be as old as the one i had that just went bad ? so would'nt make sense getting used ones that are just as old ?
or on the other hand, i could just buy the brand new honda OEM distributor housing part only from majestic honda for i think $291-$300, then put the ignitor, ignition coil, cap & rotor off of mine onto the new housing, which has the sensors and bearing plate, etc..., but does the housing have the bearing with it or not ? cause if my bearing went bad, then maybe i need to get a whole distributor assembly, is that true ?
i'm just trying to decide which to do out of these options, (thats assuming my distributor is bad), or i can pay a mobile mechanic to just look at it and see if he can find out and know for sure if i do in fact need a new distributor or not ? before buying one ?
or on the other hand, i could just buy the brand new honda OEM distributor housing part only from majestic honda for i think $291-$300, then put the ignitor, ignition coil, cap & rotor off of mine onto the new housing, which has the sensors and bearing plate, etc..., but does the housing have the bearing with it or not ? cause if my bearing went bad, then maybe i need to get a whole distributor assembly, is that true ?
i'm just trying to decide which to do out of these options, (thats assuming my distributor is bad), or i can pay a mobile mechanic to just look at it and see if he can find out and know for sure if i do in fact need a new distributor or not ? before buying one ?
07-02-2015, 08:36 AM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
just wanted to update the post . . .
luckily my friend whos a good mechanic that i trust was available, and he looked at my car this morning, and within 10 minutes he got my car started, he used my battery jump starter and had me crank it over, and started, but then he removed the distributor and showed how when you turn it, it was binding, and should be turning freely, and that he is sure its the distributor bad, but also he said when the dist. shaft heated up, it melted the rotor, and moved the rotor, where it was out of time, and would'nt start because of that mainly, cause it should of still been able to start with the condition of my distributor, but not if its out of time cause the rotor moving,
so he said its a good idea to get a used OEM distributor, but he said he just needed to lube up the current distributor good, and it can still be good enough to be able to run the car while we drive to get the used part, since he does'nt have his truck with him at the moment, so he took some stuff apart around the bearing end and lubed it up with bearing grease i had, on both ends, and afterward, he showed me how it spun freely and was'nt bindijng anymore, so right now he is putting the distributor back on the car, so we can use it to go get the part,
so most of the people on the forums were right, saying it was probably the distributor, cause it is, but i'm just glad i did'nt end up blowing a bunch of money getting some unknown mechanic look at it for telling me the same thing he did, cause he will barely charge me much at all.
luckily my friend whos a good mechanic that i trust was available, and he looked at my car this morning, and within 10 minutes he got my car started, he used my battery jump starter and had me crank it over, and started, but then he removed the distributor and showed how when you turn it, it was binding, and should be turning freely, and that he is sure its the distributor bad, but also he said when the dist. shaft heated up, it melted the rotor, and moved the rotor, where it was out of time, and would'nt start because of that mainly, cause it should of still been able to start with the condition of my distributor, but not if its out of time cause the rotor moving,
so he said its a good idea to get a used OEM distributor, but he said he just needed to lube up the current distributor good, and it can still be good enough to be able to run the car while we drive to get the used part, since he does'nt have his truck with him at the moment, so he took some stuff apart around the bearing end and lubed it up with bearing grease i had, on both ends, and afterward, he showed me how it spun freely and was'nt bindijng anymore, so right now he is putting the distributor back on the car, so we can use it to go get the part,
so most of the people on the forums were right, saying it was probably the distributor, cause it is, but i'm just glad i did'nt end up blowing a bunch of money getting some unknown mechanic look at it for telling me the same thing he did, cause he will barely charge me much at all.
07-02-2015, 08:50 AM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
At least you found the probable cause! 
I was gonna say that maybe your timing belt snapped prematurely, but it wouldn't even attempt to turn over; it happened to me whilst going 80 MPH...
My 1983 Accord had intermittent issues with suddenly dying while driving; it turned out to be the voltage regulator! It took several visits to the mechanic to finally find that out...
I was gonna say that maybe your timing belt snapped prematurely, but it wouldn't even attempt to turn over; it happened to me whilst going 80 MPH...My 1983 Accord had intermittent issues with suddenly dying while driving; it turned out to be the voltage regulator! It took several visits to the mechanic to finally find that out...
07-02-2015, 09:57 AM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
This same exact thing happened to me when I had my '91 SI hatch. Rotor melted, car bogged to a stop, could not start car. Purchased a new distributor unit versus a re-manufactured one, and I was back on the road in one morning before lunch.
Thread here for info/pics on the distributor I purchased: https://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-...oject-3164023/
Tyson was correct, this is a common problem with these cars. Best of luck with the rest of your project!
Thread here for info/pics on the distributor I purchased: https://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-...oject-3164023/
Tyson was correct, this is a common problem with these cars. Best of luck with the rest of your project!
07-02-2015, 11:41 AM
#36
07-04-2015, 11:16 AM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
Glad you fixed the problem, OP. For future reference, listening for the fuel pump to turn on is most accurately done with 2 people. Pop your gas lid and take the gas cap off and put your ear right next to the filler neck and have the other person turn the key to "ON". There is no mistaking the hum or lack thereof once you remove all the sound insulating parts from the fuel pump to your ear.
07-06-2015, 11:53 AM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
Glad you fixed the problem, OP. For future reference, listening for the fuel pump to turn on is most accurately done with 2 people. Pop your gas lid and take the gas cap off and put your ear right next to the filler neck and have the other person turn the key to "ON". There is no mistaking the hum or lack thereof once you remove all the sound insulating parts from the fuel pump to your ear.
at your signature, Ryd2TheMax!!
07-12-2015, 05:02 AM
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Re: stalled out going 60 on hwy, made sputtering sounds, then won't start?
yeah you usually are right Tyson, and always appreciate your help on any topics i post,
and i know your thinking, why i even had someone look at it, when it seemed like the distributor?, only reason is cause i wanted to know and confirm it was the distributor i needed before buying one, and have them look at everything else being probable cause as well, cause i still was'nt sure about the fuel pump or spark and stuff, and felt better having him look at everything while i describe everything that happened and stuff...., and like i said, he ended up taking off the dist. and re-lubing it up, then putting it back on, and said will run in the mean time until i get another one, and i know i could of taken it off myself cause its easy, does'nt have to do with that, cause i still would'nt know enough to lube it or where to lube it like he did to do that, and other things just cause he has more experience working on cars, and i gave him cash and he was going to buy a used oem distributor for me at wrecking yard, then for next 4-5 days he was real busy and hard to get a hold of and whenever i texted him, he said he did'nt get a chance to get the dist. yet but will tomorrow, and said that each day, but still did'nt do it, then i said to just meet me and give money back so i get it myself since my car runs enough to drive there now, and said ok, but still did'nt follow through, and just being flakey, and not answering phone like he usually did in the past, so its been over a week, and car runs fine but still has'nt got or put on new oem (used) dist., so since i don't know how long a re-lubed dist. runs before breaking down or failling, its probably best for me to just go monday and buy a used oem dist. using credit card, and put it on myself, and deal with him later on, and get the money back and stuff, but just feel better getting it over and done with.
but in the long run, i wish i did'nt pay anyone to look at it, cause with the help from people on here, i was pretty sure was the distributor, and was about to just get one and put it on and see, which would of been right, but instead i was worrying that it might be something else possibly and thats only reason i thought to just be patient and get looked at.
and i know your thinking, why i even had someone look at it, when it seemed like the distributor?, only reason is cause i wanted to know and confirm it was the distributor i needed before buying one, and have them look at everything else being probable cause as well, cause i still was'nt sure about the fuel pump or spark and stuff, and felt better having him look at everything while i describe everything that happened and stuff...., and like i said, he ended up taking off the dist. and re-lubing it up, then putting it back on, and said will run in the mean time until i get another one, and i know i could of taken it off myself cause its easy, does'nt have to do with that, cause i still would'nt know enough to lube it or where to lube it like he did to do that, and other things just cause he has more experience working on cars, and i gave him cash and he was going to buy a used oem distributor for me at wrecking yard, then for next 4-5 days he was real busy and hard to get a hold of and whenever i texted him, he said he did'nt get a chance to get the dist. yet but will tomorrow, and said that each day, but still did'nt do it, then i said to just meet me and give money back so i get it myself since my car runs enough to drive there now, and said ok, but still did'nt follow through, and just being flakey, and not answering phone like he usually did in the past, so its been over a week, and car runs fine but still has'nt got or put on new oem (used) dist., so since i don't know how long a re-lubed dist. runs before breaking down or failling, its probably best for me to just go monday and buy a used oem dist. using credit card, and put it on myself, and deal with him later on, and get the money back and stuff, but just feel better getting it over and done with.
but in the long run, i wish i did'nt pay anyone to look at it, cause with the help from people on here, i was pretty sure was the distributor, and was about to just get one and put it on and see, which would of been right, but instead i was worrying that it might be something else possibly and thats only reason i thought to just be patient and get looked at.
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