Nooch

Okay, the papers speak for themselves.

New catalytic converter - purchased 2 days ago.
New air filter - purchased today
New spark plugs - 05/16/2012 (platinum - you don't need to GAP them)
New distributor - 01/01/2011
New fuel filter - 01/01/2011
New fuel pump - 01/01/2011

Any ideas?
Is there an emissions requirement difference between the d16a6 and d15b1/2? I'm sure the engine's actual output is different but is the level different that they require for it to pass?

Someone has to know some shop that's down to pass this for some extra coin maybe?

4drEF

How many miles did you run the new cat before testing?
They do need a little time before they light up correctly.

Would be really helpful if you can post your test result sheet.
No clue what areas you are failing in.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Results are posted, maybe the host is blocked where you're at?

Just in case, the main point is 15mph NO, max = 835 ave =471 measured = 1166
All else well below the ave.

Nooch

I've put about 150 miles on the CAT, my 2nd to last smog check failed NO @ 841 (6 points off!)

Prior to that test we also redid my timing and set it to 16, not sure why this place read it at 18. I definitely haven't fucked with it since.

Correct. Thank you


Yeah the car drives ****** amazingly well. No sputter, no erratic idle, I get 35+ MPG when babying it. Average 33 when pushing it hard. I have no complaints about the engine.

You can notice that each time my smog levels got slightly better, with the CAT they are a million times better except for my NOx though.

Could an exhaust leak be causing it? I know generally NO failure is due to high engine temp - leniency a/f ratio.

According to latest Lambda Calculations - 15.27 A/F ratio. I'm guessing too lean then?

How would I go about making it more rich? >18° BTDC or <18° BTDC?

Former User

The last report indicates that the engine is running lean (very low HC). Have you replaced the fuel filter and measured the fuel pressure?

v4lu3s

what engine do you actually have?

Nooch

First post. Changed it last year. Maybe 10,000 miles on it absolutely max.
Bad O2 sensor?

Guess this would help, huh? Haha

Engine: sohc zc NON vtec
Trans: Si (I know this will raise it slightly based off the rpms)
Fuel pump is aftermarket from vatozone - maybe garbage?

Former User

Measure the fuel pressure. If it's fine, test the O2 sensor.

4drEF

Now the images show =/ Something weird with Chrome going on.

What octane fuel were you running for your tests?

Nooch

Will do

87

Nooch

What octane does everyone suggest? I know the differences but have never heard a definitive choice for the ZC sohc.

BiG ChOr!Zo

iTrader: (1)

so glad i get my test done under the table. i got the same motor and tranny as you but i would rather just pay to make it pass. don't have time for failure and it runs beautiful.

Nooch

I'm trying, I've been out of the game too long now. Don't have anybody in the know

4drEF

Assuming you are driving around a bit before the test and letting the car idle while you wait?
And then getting right on to the dyno within 5 minutes for testing?

Could be the octane is too low. I can't find it right now so I couldn't verify, but I remember the manual says 87 if you don't have a cat and run leaded fuel, 89 for SOHC, and 91 for DOHC.
You want to use the lowest octane your engine can take because it will give a more complete burn.
Downside is if you go too low, then you get pre-detonation and other wonderful high internal temp issues that would possibly trigger a HC issue.

How is your cooling system doing?
If your system has been abused with things like tap water (deposits built up internally) or improper coolant mix ratio then it could be abnormally heating the engine internally. This would reduce cooling efficiency and increase internal temps.

Nooch

Never overheats. Original rad so it's probably shot internally but I don't have any cooling issues (knock on wood). Always 50/50 coolant premixed. Previous owner probably fucked it a little but it doesn't give me any problems.

I drove around, turned it off for maybe 30 seconds before dyno. Even had the smog shop cooler fan blowing on it!

If you could verify the octane reading that would be great. I guess I'll give it a shot.

Going to change out the spark plug wires and o2 sensor too. No codes being thrown obviously.

TeamRedline89Hatch

I see you're testing as a 1.5, is your car still dpfi? When I had an a6 in my std hatch I just had to unplug one injector for it to pass as a std while mpfi lol

Nooch

I'm mpfi... I'm not getting enough fuel as it is apparently (a/f ratio of 15.27/1)

TeamRedline89Hatch

Crap sorry didn't catch that. I am at work atm so I was in a hurry lol. That does seem a bit lean, how do your plugs look? If all else fails.. I know a guy who knows a guy lol

Nooch

Haha, all good.

Nooch

Would a leak in the exhaust system cause high NOx? I don't think I have a leak but I may give it a shot retightening everything if it's suggested that it may be the culprit.

Former User

Nope. It would make the engine run rich.

Again, start with the basics:

Nooch

Will do. Just wanted to cover a few quick bases.

Nooch

Alright so how do I check the fuel pressure without having to buy the $350+ fuel pressure gauge through Honda?

I'm reading a million different ways, all seem terrible.

rallypoint_1

Would it make a difference that the motor has a mpfi swap but it's being tested as a 1.5 dpfi? Would the mpfi make the numbers jump. Not sure if the dpfi limits are different than the mpfi. One reason I never did a mpfi swap so as I can still pass smog legally.

Nooch

The actual count of injectors (dpfi -> mpfi) shouldn't matter for emissions. The .1L will matter the most.