SYN4DRDX

on the way home, my car ran fine, but when i stopped in my driveway it started idling at 500 rpm for a minute, then it died. it wouldnt start without turning it over for about 20s, then it would start and idle at 500 for about 20s, then it would die. the check engine light came on, so i pulled back the carpet and got the code, i got a code 4 (crank angle sensor) i pulled the ole' beast in teh garage, and checked out the timing belt. it was loose, but when i re-tensioned it, it was timed correctly. so i tightened everything up, and decided i needed to adjust my valves while i was there, since i did a valve job recently and (i wasnt thinking straight) i adjusted the valves while the engine was warm...... so i got the valves adjusted, thing runs great once i get it over 2000 rpms, its got massive pull now with the valves re-adjusted (they were aways off, lol) so now it runs but it still wants to die and only idles at 500 rpm.......... when i pulled my plugs to check them there was alot of carbon buildup on the plugs, and the wires have like 30k miles on them, i'm going to do an oil change, replace plugs and wires, and hope it runs ok then. oh and i forgot, i tried to turn my distributor back and forth to see if i was too far advanced (i run it quite a ways advanced, need some rpm since the 1.5 has no low end ***** anyways) and basically it didnt make any difference in the way it ran all the way advanced to all the way retarded..........i think its plugs/wires but would my cam timing make a big difference? ive got my valves a little tighter than spec (5 thousandths of an inch spaced when i tightened them down, the book calls for 7 thousandths)

tell me what you guys think, could it possibly just be that one of the plugs is fouled and its dropping it at low rpm??? or if my wires are bad, they are not getting current to the plugs until i give it alot of timing??? i should add that my car did have a little bit of a sputter if i gave it hard throttle off an idle, as if the plugs or wires were going bad.............but if you've experienced something else let me know what else i can try! thanks for reading my bs'ing

tealjdmcrx

U might have moved the timing when u retighten the belt. but u also ajusted your valve while warm do the t belt procedure from the begining and the valves .

westspeed

use an ohm meter on ur plug wires to check resistance

BoostdRex

If you're getting a "crank angle sensor" code, that very well could be what is wrong - bad crank angle sensor. Are you still throwin' the code? CAS could be easier resolved with replacement of the distributor. I had to do the same thing. Try that. Borrow a known working one if you have to to test it... I have an OBD0 Si one in primo condition for sale if you find that you want/need it - Cheap.

SYN4DRDX

i already replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one like 10kmiles ago, thats why im not wanting to change it.... everything tested out great before it went on. now last night (update!) my car started knocking after driving it for like 2 hours, would barely run (backfired every 5s) and eventually it wouldnt have enough power to move. now ive got a code 1 and a code 4 (oxygen content, and crank angle censor) but if i slipped my timing belt, that would be the knocking (ouch) going to look at it now, i'll let ya know what i find

SYN4DRDX

i already replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one like 10kmiles ago, thats why im not wanting to change it.... everything tested out great before it went on. now last night (update!) my car started knocking after driving it for like 2 hours, would barely run (backfired every 5s) and eventually it wouldnt have enough power to move. now ive got a code 1 and a code 4 (oxygen content, and crank angle censor) but if i slipped my timing belt, that would be the knocking (ouch) going to look at it now, i'll let ya know what i find