Hym3n

'88 CRX DX w/ MPFI swap

Ran fine for 25k miles, then the distributor went.

Swapped in a "good" distributor (never tested, off craigslist), worked for a day, then that distributor went.

Swapped in another "good" distributor (same deal), worked for ~5k miles, I began to notice some sputtering and figured it'd be a good idea to do the cap and rotor. Swapped the cap and rotor and now I'm getting a Code 9, Cylinder Position Sensor. The wiring from dizzy to ECU is solid. What could be causing me to eat this many distributors? Is there another associated wire in a stock harness somewhere that could be shorting out? Or do I just have bad luck and keep buying shitty old distributors?

-Brian

i_VTEC

I had the same problem in my CRX. I simply just bought a new dizzy at Kragens with lifetime warranty. I also bought a new cap and rotor and I haven't had the problem anymore. You might just have bad luck with dizzy's... Get a new Dizzy.....

rd91sib18c5r

Yeah just get a new distributor, mine came with a new cap and rotor.

You can never trust a used part i've tried myself, buy new when you can.

My distributor was 220 new for a obd2 type r.

hushypushy

Your story sounds exactly like my friend's experience in his 89 Si. We tried a few different used dizzies and caps...the solution was to just break down and buy a brand new distributor--problem solved.

Hym3n

Brand new distributor did not fix problem.
Have hardwired the C1/C2 wires now. Problem persists.
If I were to go out right now and reset the ECU, then start it up, it will start and run fine for a little bit. Then will get progressively worse, bogging and whatnot, until the CEL comes on. If driving, it will start to sputter hard, and while you can force it to get somewhere, it isn't easy, and you can tell is quite hard on the motor.

Waiting on my multimeter to get here so that I can test the ECU. I'm hoping that's what failed.

If not..... are there any other wires associated with the CYP sensor? ANYWHERE? I need to check them for shorts.

B16A CRX

it happened to me. it turned out to be my computer was fried

Hym3n

Ok, here's the deal.

When measuring resistance between pins on the distributor, the numbers come out perfect.
When measuring resistance between the wires on the engine harness side, the numbers come out perfect.
The distributor is brand new.
The ECU was swapped to a known good unit.

Still, the car throws a CEL Code 9.

What the [freak].

Hym3n

bump. dying over here.

B16A CRX

is the wiring harness virgin or has it been rigged already

Hym3n

Wiring harness is stock DX, modified to accomodate the Si dizzy/ECU/resistor pack. I went through all of the wiring that the previous owner did, and re-did it perfectly (not that I found any problems along the way). How hard is it to swap over to a true Si engine harness?

B16A CRX

If you get lucky enough to find one at the junk yard that hasn't been cut yet. CRX's are hard to find in the junkyard down here in miami and an Si is even harder. Code 9 usually has to do with a sensor inside the distributor.

B16A CRX

you should get a wiring diagram of an Si ecu

Hym3n

I'm aware that Code 9 is usually a result of a distributor failure. In this case, my distributor is brand new. Not used. Supposedly tested before shipping, I somewhat doubt that they sent me a defective brand new unit.

Hym3n

Pulled out and re-pinned the wires leading to the ECU to make them a bit "tighter." No luck there. Found that voltage was spiking/acting irregular, this was fixed with a ground strap off the alternator, but still no luck.

Does anyone on this forum know what to do at this point? I'm about to scrap the car.

New:
Distributor
Cap
Rotor
Plugs
Wires

-Swapped a known good ECU
-Re-did all wiring
-Reset timing
-Voltage stabilized (~13.8-14.4 @ idle, both at battery and dizzy)
-Resistance between the two wires is within spec both at the dizzy plug and the ECU plug
-No continuity to ground on either wire


ARE THERE ANY OTHER WIRES ASSOCIATED WITH THE CYP SENSOR? (other than the blue/green + blue/yellow off the dizzy)

zurud

I am with you. I'll just live with it - 3500 rpm rev limiter. One thing I notice is that some manual say blue/green and blue/yellow wires for cyp and some manual say orange and white for cyp.

B16A CRX

I am use to seeing the orange and white wires. I have absolutely no idea what the problem could be. The way I see it is that you done all the things that i did but you did not get results.

Hym3n

Bump for more replies.

zrickety

iTrader: (1)

it must be in your harness if you've replaced everything else.
if you are looking, send a pm to wagalude...he has an uncut si harness for sale. thread is near the top if it hasn't been moved yet

Hym3n

bump for any other ideas before I swap the wiring harness.

accordaffair

I recently replaced my dizzy and while test driving it, I revved to redline (not beyond) and my car konked out

It throws a code 9 and starts and runs, but it runs very poorly and if you give it any gas it will die out

Again, the dizzy was recently replaced because the old one had a seizing bearing.

Everything tests out at the dizzy connector and the ecu. Acceptable results are from 350-550 ohms. I'm getting about 378 at both the dizzy and the ecu.

Last step in the honda repair manual recommends swapping the ecu with a known good and retrying, but I haven't got one.

I pulled the ecu just 15 minutes ago and opened it up, but I cannot find any signs of failure, neither a short-circuit flare, nor any blackened components, nor any faulty welding. Everything in the ECU looks tip-top, practically brand new

I'm wondering if I should try to warranty the dizzy even though it passes all the tests

zrickety

iTrader: (1)

ecu can pass a visual check, even look new, and still be bad or on it's way out. i would try to find a known good ecu before trying another new distributor