Odd Idle Issues...
03-13-2008, 12:39 AM
#1
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Odd Idle Issues...
Specifics:
-1990 Civic EX.
-D16A6.
-Was an automatic, has been converted to 5 speed.
-300 Miles on engine rebuild.
Problem:
-Idle usually stays at around 1500 when warmed up.
-Idle sometimes bounces between 1500-2000 when still cold (50% of the time).
-Idle sometimes bounces between 1000-1500 when warmed up (50% of the time).
Worth Noting:
-Park wire from original auto. shifter is grounded to fool the ignition interlock into releasing the key. I think that the idle on the auto cars is affected by the car knowing if it is in gear or not. I am assuming that this would not create the high idle, and "Park" indicates no engine load, unlike if the car was in "Drive".
-Not sure if it had the idle issue when the car was auto/pre-rebuild. The car was purchased with a bad trans, and a smoking engine, the reason for the rebuild/trans swap.
-I have searched, and have not found the answers to my questions.
-Everything on the car is bone stock (Other than the trans swap, but done with all stock parts)
-Still has the Auto ECU (PS9)
-Unplugging the EACV when warmed up keeps the idle steady at about 900-950rpm.
A few questions I have:
-These cars have the EACV, and Idle boost valve. I am assuming that the Idle boost valve is basically an all or nothing, open/close valve, and the EACV (Assuming EACV is: Electronic Air Control Valve?), is a variable idle conrol valve? I am used tyo most cars basically having one or the other, and am fairly new to honda.
-Will the PM6 (SI/EX 5 Speed D16A6 ECU) plug right into my harness with out me needing to eliminate any of the additional wires needed for the Auto trans from the ECU plugs? There by eliminating my Code 19 for the auto trans that is no onger there?
Modified by DailyDriverCivic at 2:01 PM 3/13/2008
Modified by DailyDriverCivic at 4:11 PM 3/13/2008
-1990 Civic EX.
-D16A6.
-Was an automatic, has been converted to 5 speed.
-300 Miles on engine rebuild.
Problem:
-Idle usually stays at around 1500 when warmed up.
-Idle sometimes bounces between 1500-2000 when still cold (50% of the time).
-Idle sometimes bounces between 1000-1500 when warmed up (50% of the time).
Worth Noting:
-Park wire from original auto. shifter is grounded to fool the ignition interlock into releasing the key. I think that the idle on the auto cars is affected by the car knowing if it is in gear or not. I am assuming that this would not create the high idle, and "Park" indicates no engine load, unlike if the car was in "Drive".
-Not sure if it had the idle issue when the car was auto/pre-rebuild. The car was purchased with a bad trans, and a smoking engine, the reason for the rebuild/trans swap.
-I have searched, and have not found the answers to my questions.
-Everything on the car is bone stock (Other than the trans swap, but done with all stock parts)
-Still has the Auto ECU (PS9)
-Unplugging the EACV when warmed up keeps the idle steady at about 900-950rpm.
A few questions I have:
-These cars have the EACV, and Idle boost valve. I am assuming that the Idle boost valve is basically an all or nothing, open/close valve, and the EACV (Assuming EACV is: Electronic Air Control Valve?), is a variable idle conrol valve? I am used tyo most cars basically having one or the other, and am fairly new to honda.
-Will the PM6 (SI/EX 5 Speed D16A6 ECU) plug right into my harness with out me needing to eliminate any of the additional wires needed for the Auto trans from the ECU plugs? There by eliminating my Code 19 for the auto trans that is no onger there?
Modified by DailyDriverCivic at 2:01 PM 3/13/2008
Modified by DailyDriverCivic at 4:11 PM 3/13/2008
03-13-2008, 03:05 PM
#3
Re: Odd Idle Issues... (DailyDriverCivic)
When converting auto to manual, usually you have to get your ECU chipped to Manual and you are good to go, but if you messed with the wires and it drives fine then good. But the best method is to just chip the ECU to manual without the unnecessary hassle of other things.
If not that then I believe the idle boost you are talking about is the Fast Idle Thermal Valve (FITV). You can clean it and it is adjustable. Check your Idle Air Control Valve as well. Also check to see if your throttle cable is stuck, you can take out your intake tubing to diagnose the throttle plate, if theres gunk in there, get some carb cleaner and wipe it off and make sure it closes fully.
If not that then I believe the idle boost you are talking about is the Fast Idle Thermal Valve (FITV). You can clean it and it is adjustable. Check your Idle Air Control Valve as well. Also check to see if your throttle cable is stuck, you can take out your intake tubing to diagnose the throttle plate, if theres gunk in there, get some carb cleaner and wipe it off and make sure it closes fully.
03-13-2008, 03:14 PM
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Re: Odd Idle Issues... (RanCRX)
The motor was just rebuilt and everything is spotless (Including the TB). The car is getting an OBD1 conversion soon as far as any chipping goes. I also just added the fact that unplugging the EACV drops the idle to a steady 900-950, but It creates a pulsing throttle when the gas pedal is depressed.
03-13-2008, 03:20 PM
#5
Ah my bad. Forget not every engine is the same, well, inspect the EACV and make sure the wires are not dirty (to,from) and etc, get some specs on resistance and voltage, and somehow test your eacv if its good or not. Hope this helps lol
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