crxb18ls

I have acquired a DC SPORTS header for a b18 ls swap. I had it on and ran the car but the ecu was giving a CEL for o2. The o2 location is close to the cat. Does this mean I have to have the o2 location moved up closer? The b18 I have in the car is obd-0. I'm not sure if the header needs to 2 or just 1 o2 install for this swap.

The_Undertaker

Is header 4-1 or 4-2-1 on 4-1 there is a bung for only one 02 sensor. On 4-2-1 there are two for number 4 exhaust and back for all 4 readings.

DelSolDon

if you're OBD0, then you have a single-wire O2 sensor, right? OBD0 locates the O2 sensor closer to the head so that the exhaust gases heat it up quickly. Unlike OBD1 sensors (which have a built-in heater), the single-wire O2 will only work correctly when placed closer to the head (like the stock location).

crxb18ls

4-1 setup on the header. Therefore, I need the o2 location moved up. Is it possible to run a built in heated o2 but for obd- 0? If not, does that mean its only for obd-1 setups of the LS?

hondasaurusrex

interesting...because my dohc zc just started throwing the o2 code as well...and funnily enough i have a 4-2-1 header and the o2 is located in the downpipe near the cat....should i move it back closer??

crxb18ls

i have a b18 in my crx dx and a dc sports (4-1) with the o2 located closer to cat . You're saying that your getting the o2 code as well with the o2 close to the cat. Is your dohc zc stock? or modified? Is your header the 421 version of DC sports?

crxb18ls

Not sure if it makes a difference stock or modified---- from my understanding it looks like it should be mounted on the (aftermarket) header close to the stock location of the factory header. Does this help?
Remember now -- this is how I see it.

SETI20

Click here. All you need to know.

hondasaurusrex

my zc is stock w/ bolt ons (i/h/e + cat delete pipe) and yes, the o2 is located in my downpipe closer to the cat...and my code 1 is kickin my ***....puting the stock mani on tonight to see if that will fix it...id rather have a stock mani for now than have a fucked up running car

SETI20

You're having temperature problems.
Try installing a heated 3 or 4 wire o2 sensor.

hondasaurusrex

well, thats out of the question right now...money is tight enough that i cant afford excess gas in a honda....so im gonna stick with the parts i got layin around

crxb18ls

price on an o2 sensor isn't that bad

hondasaurusrex

got a 4 wire for a ls1...gonna try wiring it up

hondasaurusrex

wired up the 4 wire o2 sensor...fixed my problem for one night...then its right back again...i dono what the problem is...maybe the pm6 is just flat out running the engine like ****? it likes to do this whole hesitation and stuttering thing until about 3200 rpm, then its off to the races...idles fine, TIMING IS DEAD NUTS!!!!! no other codes...just the code 1 for the o2 sensor

crxb18ls

ls1 as in camaro ls1 o2 sensor? LOL or a o2 from a Ls? I did some reading from the FAQ section on codes. Still not quite sure on the Dohc Zc model. I had the sohc model in my 92hb. I say use the 4w o2 closer to the cat since the built in heater. Use a stock o2 meant for the Dohc zc closer to the head. If you ran the wrong o2 for too long you could mess your ecu up link to Codes
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1558301

code 1 and code 2 are RIGHT AT THE TOP...lol

hondasaurusrex

yeah, i bought a 4 wire for a 2001 camaro w/ ls1, it was the only 4 wire sensor i could think of right off hand as i have some experience with camaros....and it was the cheapest one i could find (about $70).....so i wired it up, gave power and ground to the heater, and didnt hook up a reference voltage...now when i start my car, no cel but code 1 is still there even after resetting the ecu like 5 times...so the car runs like complete *** when the cel is off....however when it comes on, my hesitation that i described in an earlier post isnt nearly as bad...car also doesnt like being held at part throttle to cruise 55...i have to go 60-62...my cheapie faze afr gauge is only reading for a few seconds while im at idle, then it shuts off on me....when its on, its reading full lean....i dono what the problem is..i know i need a pg7, but i got beat by a ex coupe w/ d16z6 last night and i was PISSED!!!!!

SETI20

Follow the link I gave you, and test the output the sensor is giving.

There is absolutely no guarantee that it'll give even remotely the same values. After all, it was designed for an entirely different vehicle.

IT GUY

why would you want a PG7 for an LS swap? Should be using a PR4 right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Click here. All you need to know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^^good stuff

hondasaurusrex

i've never known of an o2 that uses any different than a 0-1v signal...once the exhaust cools down i'll go out to the garage and see what it is...im thinking i may have to install a adustable fuel pressure regulator and increase pressure a few psi?? or maybe disconnect the stock one for a minute and see if it fixes the problem?? it just seems to me like im running way lean...i dunno

SETI20

Upping the fuel pressure will only cause the ECU to shorten the injector pulse time.

hondasaurusrex

it guy its not an ls...its a dohc zc
also noticed the temp sensor on the back of the block had a real bad connection, i think thats the problem..wont know until i can get a proper female connector and some new wire tomorrow morning
o2 was also reading .379-.484v @ around 3000 rpm, and .566-.600v at around 4000 rpm..... so that seems to be working properly i suppose

crxb18ls

WOW this thead is starting to look like yours...LOL but hey if my "?" wasn't put out there -- you might not gotten this far in yours. Not saying you thread jacked either. Weird thing is I'm still not quite sure on what location is the correct one but which will one allow me to run. My plans on my b18 crx dx is 180 streetable hp power with no boost. Shooting for 180 maybe 200 miles from a full 8 gal tank with the setup. Post back with your repair on the temp sensor -coolant temp? back of the block? use to changing temp sensor close to thermo-stat housing.

hondasaurusrex

haha..yeah, that wasnt my intention to get my problem fixed as opposed to yours, lol...however, i cant run an o2 any closer to the head, as the stock manifold will not bolt up to any downpipe i have...so im forced to run an o2 either just before the cat in the downpipe which is where i have it now, or i can run one on the back side of my "test pipe" which would be pointless as its only further downstream...i think the problem is the ecu is thinking my car is still cold, therefore running it as lean as possible...thats why when the cel comes on, it runs better, because the ecu is reverting to base maps to run the engine rather than running it as best it can....i dont know, my logic may be completely back asswards of what is really going on, lol....all i know is im getting ready to fix this coolant temp sensor (on a D series, theres one in the head for the gauge readout, and one on back of block for ecu/cooling fan) i just have to figure out which wire goes in which spot, as i only want to have to fix this once, lol

hondasaurusrex

got the issue fixed...damned connection to the temp sensor was open... tellin the ecu the engine was always cold...now thats fixed she pulls pretty hard in 2nd...this is the fastest car i've owned so im havin a friggin blast now!!

crxb18ls

Haha what exhaust are runnin now? Are you still running the 4w o2?
If possible change back to the dc sports header