LightWeightED8

You can still have a coil or igniter issue issue. The connectors you ohm'd out test the crank sensor and the tdc sensor.

Just to be certain, is your main relay still functioning properly? Make sure its providing constant battery voltage to the fuel pump and injectors.

hisnibs

My main relay is good; I turn the key, hear the fuel pump prime
The injectors are firing and are now hooked up correctly.
I am just getting no spark

How would I go about testing the coil or ICM?

LightWeightED8

I don't know how to bench test the coil. I keep a known working around one since most honda/acura of this era use the same one.

Is your cap and rotor good?

88whitehatchidaho

are you running a mpfi obd0 dizzy, cause your running a obd0 pm6 ecu and the car was converted to obd 1 at one time right? just trying to help

hisnibs

I am running a stock obd0 distributor out of my CRX Si
I put a new cap on it a month ago and new wires on last november.

I do have a OBD1 non-vtec distributor sitting on the shelf though; Is there any way to make that work with my pm6 ecu?

hisnibs

Now it's throwing a code 8 and 15 again
I just going to grab another freakin distrib at this point

hisnibs

I grabbed an obd0 PM6 ecu and a distributor from a 89 civic Si at the junkyard today.
I swapped these in for my cirrent distrib and ecu and I am still getting no spark.

What ecu pins should connect to which pins on the distrib plugs?
I found such a chart for OBD1 but not for obd0

I know that the blk/yel wire goes to the battery via the main relay

LightWeightED8

BAM!:

hisnibs

Sweet chart LightWeight; I printed it off of Xenocron last week when I had the main relay issues.

I finally got the car running though; The previous owner added a third pass. side cannon plug and the pin for the ignitor signal was in the wrong slot, LOL/****

Props to this chart http://www.rywire.com/store/images/t...or_pinouts.jpg and this thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/obd0-obd1-distributor-wiring-1349052/

hisnibs

Now it will not start at all again

I am getting codes 17 (atmos press sensor) and 20 (ELD) but they should not affect starting.
I checked my thimg belt and at TDC @ cyl #1 my cam gear is in the correct UP position.

The fuel pressure gauge reads 37psi and the injectors are clicking. I do smell gas and I am getting a spark.

I pulled my plugs and they appear to be dry fouled.

WTF? What am I missing that would be causing this?

hisnibs

Fixed the code 13 and 20; C13 was disconnected at the ecu.
However it still won't start and smells like straight gasoline

ej14life

So are you getting spark now and it's still not starting? If you're not getting spark, then make sure you're getting 12v/battery voltage to the distributor when the key is in the on or start position. If you're getting voltage to the distributor but still no spark, it would probably be something wrong with the distributor like a coil or ignitor. It sounds like there are some electrical problems you have to deal with first.

The fuel smell is the engine flooding.

hisnibs

I'm getting battery voltage at the distributor and all the wiring is good from the distributor to the ECU (I checked the individual wires with a multimeter)

I have two distributors, one of which was rebuilt last year, and they are both having the same problem. I even tried swapping in a spare ICM with no change.

ej14life

So are you definitely getting spark? If yes, this might be a dumb question, but are the wires in the correct order? Also, you said you were able to get it to turn over a few times. When it did, did it run OK? Did it start and immediately die? I dont have my manual in front of me but what are the codes you are still getting, this would probably point you in the direction of the culprit.

hisnibs

It is definitely getting spark and the wires are definitely in the correct order(At least according to my Helms manual :D)
IT would not start unless I gave it some gas. It sounded like it was running on 2 or 3 cylinders and would barely idle. Even then it was running crazy rich.

I was getting everything from a code 4, 7, 8, 10, 13, 15, 20, however I corrected a few wiring issues(Bad injector and distributor wiring) and am currently getting no codes. If I unplug a sensor it will throw a code however, but it is not currently showing a CEL or any codes.

ej14life

Man, sounds like you got you're hands full for a while! You said earlier the plugs were fouled, did you clean/replace them? Also, whats the compression at?

I think the problem still lies in the wiring from the sounds of the condition of the harness but it doesn't hurt to check the basics.(Air, fuel, spark, compression) Don't want to see you throw parts at it either.

hisnibs

I am getting no codes due to the work I did on the harness(ie rewire every sensor and unshielded leand and make an injector subharness)
I did clean the plugs and they were brand new last week, however I stupidly threw them in before I had resolved my injector and distributor harness issues. I'll try throwing in my old ones or perhaps a fresh set.
I have nop idea what the compression is at, however the motor always started great when it was in my crx and was honda maintained and granny driven til 10k ago, since than it's been giving me 35-45 mpg. I don't think compression is going to be a major issue.

My gut is telling me that it is either spark timing or over fueling taht is killing me.

LightWeightED8

Just to be thorough, have you rechecked you cam and crank timing to make sure all is lined up? If you manual turn the crank 6 times do the timing marks maintain the proper static timing?

hisnibs

I have rechecked the cam/crankshaft timing thrice. If i tirn it over and over by hand at the crank pully, the marks on the cam gear line up with the head, over and over and over again.

I just grabbed a fresh set of plugs this afternoon and put them in.
The car fires once or twice when i first turn the key to start, then it just keeps cranking without actually turning over.

System Lord

iTrader: (1)

I have a similar problem but the only thing I need is spark tho Ive tried everything except main relay and crank sensor! But if I were you I would do a compression test just to have some piece of mind about those valves not being bent. fuel compression spark = go

BTW light weight what would improper static timing cause just curious? I have my own nightmare at the moment as well! I feel your pain hisnibs!

hisnibs

The timing belt was changed at 120k and still looks minty
Why would the valves be bent if the belt never broke and the static cam to crankshaft timing was never off?
I just swapped out the distrib and advanced it as far as it would go and it still barely fired 2 or 3 cylinders. I also rechecked the static cam to crankshaft timing and it is "Bang On"
Hopefully you have better luck than me so far, System Lord

System Lord

iTrader: (1)

you never stated that, im the kinda guy that will check everything if its related to the issue I can not resolve

hisnibs

heh
I've checked the static timing several times, installed 2 new sets of plugs, tried 2 different ECUs, 2 different distribs, 2 different sets of injectors and I have totaly redone the engine harness aswell as a portion of the cabin harness.

ej14life

Just a thought, you converted the car from DPFI to MPFI, do you have the injector resistor box squared away? The proper injectors are in there right? I know its kinda hard to diagnose without the car in front of me, but might have to start looking at the simple things.

hisnibs

The injectors are wired from the main power at the ecu (A13-15) to the injector box then split to each individual injector then on to pins A1, 3, 5 and 7 all via a delphi weatherpak connector. This was the first thing I did when I found an inj1-3 short and an open on inj2 in the old wiring.
I have 2 sets of obd0 injectors, one of which was working when they were removed 3 weeks ago.

ATM it just seeems to be dumping too much darn fuel in.