StorminMatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GI8U2racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off, there is no B18CR, there is a B18C5 and a B18C that is for the JDM Type R. They are lighter than a B16, and are the best B-series swap available IMHO. They are easily turbo'd too if you're looking for that. Or they can keep you happy all day NA. They are great track engines, and very competitive in some Honda Challenge classes.

The reason you don't see many is that they are 3-4 times the price of a B16, even though they only have 35 hp more (160 vs 195). You can turbo a B16 for less money and have more power than a B18C5. Welcome to a world of choices.........</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, the B18C5 is not lighter than a B16A. If anything, it would be aslightly heavier. Basically, it is largely the same motor. BUT, the slightly taller block, slightly longer rods, and slightly longer crankshaft throws probably all add at least a few pounds to the weight of the motor. But nothing REALLY significant.

Cost is indeed a reason why most people don't go B18C5. But if you can afford it, the B18C5 is certainly a good way to go. Yes, you could do a turbo cheaper. But, as I always say, not everyone wants to deal with turbocharging. And if you DO go turbo on the cheap, don't expect any semblance to reliability. But in any case, NO turbocharged engine is going to be as reliable as a fairly stock B18C5. And for all that extra money you pay for the B18C5, what you are REALLY paying for is a GREAT balance between performance, reliability, and economy. A B18C5 swap will give you GREAT performance, but with completely stock Honda reliability and 30+MPG. That's just something you are NOT going to get with a turbo.

Grandhustleman86

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


</TD></TR></TABLE>

This has to be the gayest picture ever....Absolutely speechless....awesome....I was thinking more neopoleon dynamite....lol

Deetz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GI8U2racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

First off, there is no B18CR, there is a B18C5 and a B18C that is for the JDM Type R. They are lighter than a B16, and are the best B-series swap available IMHO.</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO...not true as StorminMatt has already mentioned, why would you even say that? I have both engine sittting in my garage right now, the B16 is 18 lbs less!!

The B18C5 has overweighted crank to smooth about operation at higher rpm, in fact its 20% smoother than a GSR after 7000rpm, that fact right from Honda. Also the block is slightley larger and weights more too.

Don't spread miss informantion

PuroMotor

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

. A B18C5 swap will give you GREAT performance, but with completely stock Honda reliability and 30+MPG. That's just something you are NOT going to get with a turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont know but ive seen otherwise. Jeff Evans tuned a c5 at 324 or so hp at 13 psi and the guy gets bout 35 mph. A well tuned turbo system can be reliable and economic also.. of course maybe not as much a stock one. but with a good tuner you can get pretty close.

GI8U2racing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deetz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

NO...not true as StorminMatt has already mentioned, why would you even say that? I have both engine sittting in my garage right now, the B16 is 18 lbs less!!

The B18C5 has overweighted crank to smooth about operation at higher rpm, in fact its 20% smoother than a GSR after 7000rpm, that fact right from Honda. Also the block is slightley larger and weights more too.

Don't spread miss informantion </TD></TR></TABLE>

I heard that on here, that the block itself had less aluminum, and was physically lighter. My bad

SIred91

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GI8U2racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I heard that on here, that the block itself had less aluminum, and was physically lighter. My bad</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need to be careful here, everything you here is subject to fact finding, there
are a lot of idiots spreading word of mouth around. So just kindly check your facts before relaying information to someone else.

Otherwise, there is a lot of useful info here. Just double check everything you learn.
Don't take it as face value.

Common sense would indicate that engines with a larger displacement are heavier.

whiteknightef

a simple d-series turbo or vtec motor will handle the best! If you stay stock suspension the larger engines will deffinately cause some oversteer.

ComeOnKip

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRZ88DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've heard that if you want a car to stick like glue to the road Pirelli is the way to go </TD></TR></TABLE>

205/50R15 Toyo T1-Rs made my car feel unbelievable. Tires and spring rates (all other factors being properly operational) are the most crucial thing for how a car handles. Get a pair of coilovers that has a standardized spring rate (60 or 80 mm for the metrics and 2.25" or 2.5" for american made). This way you can play around with spring rates, how your car feels and what your working towards. At ~$50 a pair, its an easy way to make a huge difference in your cars attitude.


Modified by ComeOnKip at 11:24 AM 1/11/2008

RockinthEFhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Common sense would indicate that engines with a larger displacement are heavier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HA quote of the day

-Trinitron-

With the handling aspect, the Energy full bushing set is well worth the money and time. However it is a pain in the *** to do every bushing in the car. Most of the guys who have done it LOVE it, but would probably never do it again...

JustAnotherRex

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Trinitron- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the handling aspect, the Energy full bushing set is well worth the money and time. However it is a pain in the *** to do every bushing in the car. Most of the guys who have done it LOVE it, but would probably never do it again...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The poly one that binds one of the axis of movement for control arms?

I've heard a number of bad things.

ComeOnKip

DONT DO URETHANE. PERIOD.

unless you have some sort of secret super lubricant thats gonna let the forks and everything slide like they should, its a waste of money. If you want to go race, get spherical bearings. If you want to ride on the street, replace your oem rubber bushings with exactly that.... oem rubber bushings.

simonEp3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grandhustleman86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This has to be the gayest picture ever....Absolutely speechless....awesome....I was thinking more neopoleon dynamite....lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

I gotta agree with ^^Grandhustleman86 ^^ this is by far the GAYEST picture ever.

sinfulrides89

i would hafta agree. B series motors eat alot more fuel than D's or ZC's. even with a vtec model like the B18C5 you would have to feed premium fuel (due to high compression).

but if your really lookin for a Bseries swap i'd go with the B16. a type r seems like over kill. i knew a kid who had an ITR motor in his 93 coupe and it had alotta torque steer.

hey if you want moderatly fast i have a B18B1 for sale dirt cheap?
gotta part out my integra.

SIred91

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by simonEp3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I gotta agree with ^^Grandhustleman86 ^^ this is by far the GAYEST picture ever. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I see that and I will raise you a --

HOODLOVER

i just finished replacing all the bushings a couple days ago and in terms of time and effort it better be worth it. to 18 year old bushings

gibsanez

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GI8U2racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to handle better, you are not going to find anything between B and K, H series on the other hand...I'd avoid that. Think more about tires, sway bars, shocks, springs, bushings, and weight reduction. Hopefully you are already aware of this since you are aware of weight distribution. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong again, the H22 with trans weighs in roughly 25-30 pounds more than a B16, so It's a far cry from being heavier than a K.

Crx Jimmy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whiteknightef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a simple d-series turbo or vtec motor will handle the best! If you stay stock suspension the larger engines will deffinately cause some oversteer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

over steer is good, its why we put big sway bars on the rear for, I think you mean understeer

ComeOnKip

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

over steer is good, its why we put big sway bars on the rear for, I think you mean understeer</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually oversteer is just as bad as understeer, its just a little easier to correct without losing a tremendous amount of speed. if anything you want the car handling neutral, not to biased to pushin the front or swingin the rear out for that matter also.

StorminMatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinfulrides89 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would hafta agree. B series motors eat alot more fuel than D's or ZC's. even with a vtec model like the B18C5 you would have to feed premium fuel (due to high compression).

but if your really lookin for a Bseries swap i'd go with the B16. a type r seems like over kill. i knew a kid who had an ITR motor in his 93 coupe and it had alotta torque steer.

hey if you want moderatly fast i have a B18B1 for sale dirt cheap?
gotta part out my integra.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, from EVERYTHING I have heard and experienced, B-series does NOT use more gas than D-series. Unless, of course, we are talking about B-series vs a D15Z1 (VX), D15B8 (CX) or D15B6 (HF). But it's not like that D16Z6 swap or ZC swap is going to get 40MPG. It seems like they all (ie B-series, D16Z6, ZC, etc) pretty much get around low-mid 30s. You are right about one thing, though. With, say, a D16Z6, you can run cheap 87 octane gas. That is, unless you plan to boost or raise compression.

As for an ITR being 'too much', I don't find this to be true. I find that, in many ways, it is actually 'just right' (if there is such a thing). Although you can never really have enough power or torque, a stock B18C5 is at that point where you are not just ACHING for more. You are at least somewhat satisfied with what you have. But a B16A? Forget it! Although I would DEFINITELY say that a B16A is better than any D-series, it will leave you asking youself why you didn't spend the extra bucks for a B18C. Trust me on that one. And no, I didn't have the B16A in something heavy.

PuroMotor

You guys are comparing apples to oranges......

GSX 4G63T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually, from EVERYTHING I have heard and experienced, B-series does NOT use more gas than D-series. Unless, of course, we are talking about B-series vs a D15Z1 (VX), D15B8 (CX) or D15B6 (HF). But it's not like that D16Z6 swap or ZC swap is going to get 40MPG. It seems like they all (ie B-series, D16Z6, ZC, etc) pretty much get around low-mid 30s. You are right about one thing, though. With, say, a D16Z6, you can run cheap 87 octane gas. That is, unless you plan to boost or raise compression.

As for an ITR being 'too much', I don't find this to be true. I find that, in many ways, it is actually 'just right' (if there is such a thing). Although you can never really have enough power or torque, a stock B18C5 is at that point where you are not just ACHING for more. You are at least somewhat satisfied with what you have. But a B16A? Forget it! Although I would DEFINITELY say that a B16A is better than any D-series, it will leave you asking youself why you didn't spend the extra bucks for a B18C. Trust me on that one. And no, I didn't have the B16A in something heavy.</TD></TR></TABLE>


A b16a should go for $1500 and then some more like mounts, linkage, ecu. A jdm b18c goes like $3800 and then some mounts, linkage, ecu, hydro trans. A usdm b18c1 goes for $3500 and then some mounts etc. Remember this is a complete package with all the parts already together. to save a lot of money. I would find a b18c block and get a b16a head and a ys1 lsd trans with DA axles = shaft. and rywire.com harness for vtec. and hasports for the mounts looking for like $2000 at the max if you find them locally and build your way up to a build motor by you. I would highly recommend finding parts individually and learning your way through the honda engine design and parts and codes and etc. Go b series! DOHC is better this is my opinion..

StorminMatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I see that and I will raise you a --


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. The other guy was just more ultra-nerdy than anything else.

twiztid17thninja

ok back to the topic. it doesn't really matter which engine you put in you want your car to be fun for your drive to work everyday. replace balljoins/bushings (sounds like you already are) get some nice koni coilovers. everybody trumps up their swaybars but i am gonna go out on a limb here and say get rid of your swaybars. you are driving on a real road not a completly smooth track run no swaybars and your car will lean like a mother but will handle better than with just the stock swabar and you won't need to spend a dime on that. don't worry your dual wishbone will take care of everything.

ps. nobody start telling me that two huge swaybars will make your car handle better i know that on smooth roads they will on a not so smooth road i like my suspension to be a little softer