need advice on 91 lx
05-12-2009, 09:33 AM
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need advice on 91 lx
hello
we just bought a 91 Civic Lx sedan. it has DPI engine. 1.5 i believe
i am tlc-ing it right now, she's doing much better with every step. i need some advice though:
1. what manual, besides OEM one, has good info on 91 Civics? i bought Chilton for the years, and it is useless for our car - it's all either before 87, or after 92, barely anything on 91. i'll return it.
2. how do i get to ac belt to remove it? i need to replace both alternator and PS ones, so that one is in my way.
3. where's PCV on this model? it's in the intake somewhere, i just can't spot it.
4. there's narrow coolant pipe going from thermostate housing down into the intake, with a narrow hose in the middle. something like 3/8th, maybe 1/2 inch thick. i figure it'll be a notorious leaker, and we need no blown hoses on this car. what will happen if i'll block those pipes and disconnect that hose? figure, it's warming up intake for cold starts. well, i'm in WA, it ain't that cold....
5. where exactly is idle control thing? i am supposed to disconnect the connector from it to adjust idle with strobe light, chilton has just generic drawing of it, and that throttle body has several things that look like it.
will most appreciate. thank you.
we just bought a 91 Civic Lx sedan. it has DPI engine. 1.5 i believe
i am tlc-ing it right now, she's doing much better with every step. i need some advice though:
1. what manual, besides OEM one, has good info on 91 Civics? i bought Chilton for the years, and it is useless for our car - it's all either before 87, or after 92, barely anything on 91. i'll return it.
2. how do i get to ac belt to remove it? i need to replace both alternator and PS ones, so that one is in my way.
3. where's PCV on this model? it's in the intake somewhere, i just can't spot it.
4. there's narrow coolant pipe going from thermostate housing down into the intake, with a narrow hose in the middle. something like 3/8th, maybe 1/2 inch thick. i figure it'll be a notorious leaker, and we need no blown hoses on this car. what will happen if i'll block those pipes and disconnect that hose? figure, it's warming up intake for cold starts. well, i'm in WA, it ain't that cold....
5. where exactly is idle control thing? i am supposed to disconnect the connector from it to adjust idle with strobe light, chilton has just generic drawing of it, and that throttle body has several things that look like it.
will most appreciate. thank you.
05-12-2009, 11:59 AM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
1. Use the factory honda service manual. You can download a copy of one for free at www.hondahookup.com
2. use a 14 mm wrench, loosen the bolt on the a/c tension pulley. Then use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a long extension and a 10mm socket and lower the a/c belt tensioner. You literally have to slip the long extension through a small gap between the a/c (or engine mount bracket) and the block to get to the small 10mm screw.
3. PCV valve if I remember correctly is dead center on the intake manifold just underneath the DPFI throttle body. Someone correct me if I am mistaken.
See the diagram: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...EATHER+CHAMBER
It is part #8 on the diagram.
4. The small hose will likely not leak if you don't mess with it. I've had my Honda Civic for years now with over 400K KMs on it and to this day it doesn't leak. If you ever remove it then it will leak.
5. It has a green connector on it and is to the right of the DPFI throttle body housing. You can see it here: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NIFOLD+%281%29
It is part #:11 in the diagram.
Good luck!
2. use a 14 mm wrench, loosen the bolt on the a/c tension pulley. Then use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a long extension and a 10mm socket and lower the a/c belt tensioner. You literally have to slip the long extension through a small gap between the a/c (or engine mount bracket) and the block to get to the small 10mm screw.
3. PCV valve if I remember correctly is dead center on the intake manifold just underneath the DPFI throttle body. Someone correct me if I am mistaken.
See the diagram: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...EATHER+CHAMBER
It is part #8 on the diagram.
4. The small hose will likely not leak if you don't mess with it. I've had my Honda Civic for years now with over 400K KMs on it and to this day it doesn't leak. If you ever remove it then it will leak.
5. It has a green connector on it and is to the right of the DPFI throttle body housing. You can see it here: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NIFOLD+%281%29
It is part #:11 in the diagram.
Good luck!
05-12-2009, 07:43 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
1. Use the factory honda service manual. You can download a copy of one for free at www.hondahookup.com
2. use a 14 mm wrench, loosen the bolt on the a/c tension pulley. Then use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a long extension and a 10mm socket and lower the a/c belt tensioner. You literally have to slip the long extension through a small gap between the a/c (or engine mount bracket) and the block to get to the small 10mm screw.
3. PCV valve if I remember correctly is dead center on the intake manifold just underneath the DPFI throttle body. Someone correct me if I am mistaken.
See the diagram: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...EATHER+CHAMBER
It is part #8 on the diagram.
4. The small hose will likely not leak if you don't mess with it. I've had my Honda Civic for years now with over 400K KMs on it and to this day it doesn't leak. If you ever remove it then it will leak.
5. It has a green connector on it and is to the right of the DPFI throttle body housing. You can see it here: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NIFOLD+%281%29
It is part #:11 in the diagram.
Good luck!
2. use a 14 mm wrench, loosen the bolt on the a/c tension pulley. Then use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a long extension and a 10mm socket and lower the a/c belt tensioner. You literally have to slip the long extension through a small gap between the a/c (or engine mount bracket) and the block to get to the small 10mm screw.
3. PCV valve if I remember correctly is dead center on the intake manifold just underneath the DPFI throttle body. Someone correct me if I am mistaken.
See the diagram: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...EATHER+CHAMBER
It is part #8 on the diagram.
4. The small hose will likely not leak if you don't mess with it. I've had my Honda Civic for years now with over 400K KMs on it and to this day it doesn't leak. If you ever remove it then it will leak.
5. It has a green connector on it and is to the right of the DPFI throttle body housing. You can see it here: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NIFOLD+%281%29
It is part #:11 in the diagram.
Good luck!
most appreciate.well, i guess, it was all in vain, as i just found that she failed emissions (idle) om march 31. seller did not tell, and i did not ask, old fool. idle was rigged on it, so i got idle to where it's supposed to be, checked out timing, got can of seafom in the tank.... we'll try again tomorrow. she drives fine for $300.
she's quite beat up, i don't think it's worth investing any more into her. oh, and btw, my question was not how to loosen ac belt. question was - how do i get to the screws and bolts. i just can't see them....
05-13-2009, 09:58 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
To Charlie Moua: yes all civic DX and higher level sedans for sure had power steering.
ukrkoz: Failed emissions? I can't help you there because in Canada there is no emissions testing in my region. But seriously the car is CRAZY easy to fix and tune. I'll bet you could figure it out in no time. $300 dollar car and you don't want to put money into it? I must've been crazy to spent $3000 on mine to make it driveable again..
I love EFs...
okay for the a/c belt you do need a 14mm offset wrench to loosen the a/c idler pulley nut. The nut is literally the one that is smack center on the actual rotating pulley. This nut MUST be loose otherwise your belt will never come off. That pulley should be clearly visible if you look just to the left of the power steering reservoir is. The a/c belt loops around the crankshaft, the tension/idler pulley and then the a/c compressor. Spray a bit of WD-40 as it sometimes can be stupid tight. Then as per my original post get a 1/4 drive ratchet with a long (really long) extension and attach a 10 mm deep socket onto the end of the extension to give you that bit of extra length. Stick your now really long socket into the really tight quarters between the valve cover and I believe the mounting bracket for the power steering pump (or engine mount - I can't quite remember) to gain access to the 10mm screw. To give you a reference point the a/c belt tension pulley moves UP and DOWN via this 10mm screw and basically is in direct line behind the pulley where you had to loosen the 14mm nut. Get a bright light, make sure your engine bay is spotless and you WILL that tiny screw.
When you get everything out make sure you coat things with a bit of anti seize compound. I find it makes a huge difference when you've got to remove things again. Also don't over tighten the 10mm screw as it is merely putting tension on the belt (the more you screw the 10mm screw in the tighter the belt). Once you've tightened the belt sufficiently just snug the 14mm nut on the tensioner and that will keep everything in place. DO NOT forget to tighten that 14mm nut. I made the fatal mistake of not tightening it and it flew off my engine when I was driving my car.
Let me know if you need more info.
ukrkoz: Failed emissions? I can't help you there because in Canada there is no emissions testing in my region. But seriously the car is CRAZY easy to fix and tune. I'll bet you could figure it out in no time. $300 dollar car and you don't want to put money into it? I must've been crazy to spent $3000 on mine to make it driveable again..
I love EFs...okay for the a/c belt you do need a 14mm offset wrench to loosen the a/c idler pulley nut. The nut is literally the one that is smack center on the actual rotating pulley. This nut MUST be loose otherwise your belt will never come off. That pulley should be clearly visible if you look just to the left of the power steering reservoir is. The a/c belt loops around the crankshaft, the tension/idler pulley and then the a/c compressor. Spray a bit of WD-40 as it sometimes can be stupid tight. Then as per my original post get a 1/4 drive ratchet with a long (really long) extension and attach a 10 mm deep socket onto the end of the extension to give you that bit of extra length. Stick your now really long socket into the really tight quarters between the valve cover and I believe the mounting bracket for the power steering pump (or engine mount - I can't quite remember) to gain access to the 10mm screw. To give you a reference point the a/c belt tension pulley moves UP and DOWN via this 10mm screw and basically is in direct line behind the pulley where you had to loosen the 14mm nut. Get a bright light, make sure your engine bay is spotless and you WILL that tiny screw.
When you get everything out make sure you coat things with a bit of anti seize compound. I find it makes a huge difference when you've got to remove things again. Also don't over tighten the 10mm screw as it is merely putting tension on the belt (the more you screw the 10mm screw in the tighter the belt). Once you've tightened the belt sufficiently just snug the 14mm nut on the tensioner and that will keep everything in place. DO NOT forget to tighten that 14mm nut. I made the fatal mistake of not tightening it and it flew off my engine when I was driving my car.
Let me know if you need more info.
05-14-2009, 06:53 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
Steve, u r crazy..
it's all good. my wife, suddenly, decided to keep that car and told me to fix it. she's the one who called it "junk on a spare" to start with.
u c, that car ain't a beaut. several previous damages to the bumper, roof paint is gone in some areas. girl that drove it whacked neighbor's car with the driver side, so fender is damaged and mirror was shattered. ac and cruise do not work.
so, it's about right for 300 bucks. inside it is quite good though. starts and drives.
idle ain't right, but i do believe, that timing belt is one tooth over, as i can not get timing marks anywhere close to marker with distributor. so, let it warm outside, i'll have valve cover off, and get to that timing belt. will do belts same time. oil change, maybe pan gaskets.... be running fine.
we'll get emissions waver for now. it has to be $150 receipt presented to them, and we good for 2 yrs. will be taken care of next week.
ok, so i do not have to remove tire well cover to get to the ac belt. will be challenging, i have big hands. well, we had mitsu expo lrv before, totally our favorite car, that one was tight everywhere either. did well.
appreciate y'all's help. i'll become regular here, sounds like it.
it's all good. my wife, suddenly, decided to keep that car and told me to fix it. she's the one who called it "junk on a spare" to start with.
u c, that car ain't a beaut. several previous damages to the bumper, roof paint is gone in some areas. girl that drove it whacked neighbor's car with the driver side, so fender is damaged and mirror was shattered. ac and cruise do not work.
so, it's about right for 300 bucks. inside it is quite good though. starts and drives.
idle ain't right, but i do believe, that timing belt is one tooth over, as i can not get timing marks anywhere close to marker with distributor. so, let it warm outside, i'll have valve cover off, and get to that timing belt. will do belts same time. oil change, maybe pan gaskets.... be running fine.
we'll get emissions waver for now. it has to be $150
receipt presented to them, and we good for 2 yrs. will be taken care of next week.ok, so i do not have to remove tire well cover to get to the ac belt. will be challenging, i have big hands.
well, we had mitsu expo lrv before, totally our favorite car, that one was tight everywhere either. did well.appreciate y'all's help. i'll become regular here, sounds like it.
05-15-2009, 04:51 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
lol not crazy just a big Honda fan but moreso an EF guy like many of the members of HT.
I see yeah having body damage is never a good thing but as you said for $300 bucks its pretty tough to beat. I love my 91 DX sedan. $50 bucks for the car and $3000 in parts and all my own work of course... and its still classified as my beater. A mechanic at Honda asked me if I replaced ALL suspension bushing with new Honda ones and he was shocked that I actually took the time and spent the money doing it. It kills me when I see EFs at the wreckers that in waaay better shape than mine but I know that I at least I spared a EF from the crusher...
As for the a/c belt I found that it was useless to do anything from the bottom as the a/c tenser/idler pulley 14mm nut is simply too close to the frame support on the bottom end to be of any use to remove it. You can try but I think you're still way better off to do it from the top. Try to soak that nut in WD40 overnight as it will make it a bit easier to remove.
Let me know if you need other pointers.
Cheers
I see yeah having body damage is never a good thing but as you said for $300 bucks its pretty tough to beat. I love my 91 DX sedan. $50 bucks for the car and $3000 in parts and all my own work of course... and its still classified as my beater. A mechanic at Honda asked me if I replaced ALL suspension bushing with new Honda ones and he was shocked that I actually took the time and spent the money doing it. It kills me when I see EFs at the wreckers that in waaay better shape than mine but I know that I at least I spared a EF from the crusher...
As for the a/c belt I found that it was useless to do anything from the bottom as the a/c tenser/idler pulley 14mm nut is simply too close to the frame support on the bottom end to be of any use to remove it. You can try but I think you're still way better off to do it from the top. Try to soak that nut in WD40 overnight as it will make it a bit easier to remove.
Let me know if you need other pointers.
Cheers
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05-15-2009, 06:16 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
well, she's not that bad. not that good either. judge for yourself:
we don't really care about outside. there's no real damage to suspension, just cosmetics. inside she's straight and clean.
except ac and cruise, EVERYTHING works fine.
my next step is to check out timing belt. i have arranged with local Greg's Japanese Auto to have emissions waver done. then, i'll have timing belt done, probably both pan gaskets, and belts. very likely, water pump same time as timing belt.
some tlc and she'll be fine.
we don't really care about outside. there's no real damage to suspension, just cosmetics.
inside she's straight and clean. except ac and cruise, EVERYTHING works fine.
my next step is to check out timing belt. i have arranged with local Greg's Japanese Auto to have emissions waver done. then, i'll have timing belt done, probably both pan gaskets, and belts. very likely, water pump same time as timing belt.
some tlc
and she'll be fine.
05-15-2009, 10:31 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
wow she's MINT! My 91 sedan (in wintery salt laden Canada) is all rusted out and I had to bondo a million holes and stuff in my doors. Granted that it was $50 bucks my car was literally trashed. The guy that owned it really didn't care for his car. I had to shampoo the car no less than 7 times to clean out the weird smell he had in it and he was the original owner!
Trust me your car is MINT compared to what we see up here... $300 is a steal even with the damage that it has. Get a used fender, fix that mirror and you're set.
What's wrong with the cruise you say it doesn't work but can you be more specific?
Also the a/c I'll bet is dead b/c you got a rock in the condenser coil which of course likely punctured the coil. Get a condenser and replace it and then have it recharged....
Trust me your car is MINT compared to what we see up here... $300 is a steal even with the damage that it has. Get a used fender, fix that mirror and you're set.
What's wrong with the cruise you say it doesn't work but can you be more specific?
Also the a/c I'll bet is dead b/c you got a rock in the condenser coil which of course likely punctured the coil. Get a condenser and replace it and then have it recharged....
05-16-2009, 07:01 AM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
so, i have an envious question:
they do not have emission tests in Canada? even back in almighty USSR we had them...
we REALLY are not concerned about looks. i am total redneck inside, besides, i love cars that look like crap but drive like hell. one - no, 2 things i can't stand - are dirty engines and trashed interiors.
cruise.. would have been nice to have it working. pushbutton is live, as "cruise" lightens up. upper button is real sticky, virtually have to break it off to move, then it moves ok. set accel button does not appear to produce any results.
u c, i am very good mechanically. i have been working on my cars since our 1st russian moskvitch, back in 1990. but i am dumb electrically. i can take engine apart in a driveway, have all tools to run small shop - but electrical stuff is sort of enigma to me..... does she have electrical or vacuum actuated cruise?
as of ac.... it's not that hot here in Seattle. kid has been driving his eclipse w-out ac for 2 yrs, no complaint. system is apparently bone dry, i had that checked. problem is - she's R13(R12?) freon. not available and banned here. to my best knowledge, and i have recharged several cars before, you can't mix old and new freons in same system, as it produces chemical reaction and cloggs everything. then again, i had my LRV pumped with new freon several times, and nothing real bad happened. anyhow, this is on the bottom of priorities list.
top is - timing. interference engine is interference engine, you don't mess with it. plus, like i said, unless i'm totally blind, i CAN NOT get timing marks even close to the notch.ones that i can see - 2 of them - are about 3 cm towards firewall and that is the best i can. retarding ignition kills the engine. so, something ain't right there... why in the world they had to put that flange on the valve cover that prevents timing belt cover from being removed and belt inspected?
anyway, as a part of that emissions waver, they will have her scoped at the shop and i'll know exactly what to do with her. probably tuesday. i have week off at work, so we'll have her dandy by the end of it. all i know now is that she throws codes 1 and 16 on ecm. O2 sensor and injectors. revs into 6 000 rpms in a heartbeat, so 2ry injector works. might be that stupid main relay....
they do not have emission tests in Canada? even back in almighty USSR we had them...
we REALLY are not concerned about looks. i am total redneck inside, besides, i love cars that look like crap but drive like hell. one - no, 2 things i can't stand - are dirty engines and trashed interiors.
cruise.. would have been nice to have it working. pushbutton is live, as "cruise" lightens up. upper button is real sticky, virtually have to break it off to move, then it moves ok. set accel button does not appear to produce any results.
u c, i am very good mechanically. i have been working on my cars since our 1st russian moskvitch, back in 1990. but i am dumb electrically. i can take engine apart in a driveway, have all tools to run small shop - but electrical stuff is sort of enigma to me..... does she have electrical or vacuum actuated cruise?
as of ac.... it's not that hot here in Seattle. kid has been driving his eclipse w-out ac for 2 yrs, no complaint. system is apparently bone dry, i had that checked. problem is - she's R13(R12?) freon. not available and banned here. to my best knowledge, and i have recharged several cars before, you can't mix old and new freons in same system, as it produces chemical reaction and cloggs everything. then again, i had my LRV pumped with new freon several times, and nothing real bad happened. anyhow, this is on the bottom of priorities list.
top is - timing. interference engine is interference engine, you don't mess with it. plus, like i said, unless i'm totally blind, i CAN NOT get timing marks even close to the notch.ones that i can see - 2 of them - are about 3 cm towards firewall and that is the best i can. retarding ignition kills the engine. so, something ain't right there... why in the world they had to put that flange on the valve cover that prevents timing belt cover from being removed and belt inspected?
anyway, as a part of that emissions waver, they will have her scoped at the shop and i'll know exactly what to do with her. probably tuesday. i have week off at work, so we'll have her dandy by the end of it. all i know now is that she throws codes 1 and 16 on ecm. O2 sensor and injectors. revs into 6 000 rpms in a heartbeat, so 2ry injector works. might be that stupid main relay....
05-16-2009, 07:58 AM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
hmm interesting... a code 1 and code 16. Sounds like a bad main relay but generally when one of those quits then the car just dies when the relay starts getting warm.
Emissions test? Only in the high density populations like Vancouver and maybe Toronto. I'm in Calgary which is very much a place where emissions testing will likely never exist. we're the oil province of Canada and I'm not sure if you've seen in the news but we have tar sands operations in Northern Alberta by which they believe is a HUGE contributor to green house gas emissions...
Do you know to re-adjust timing via removing the timing belt? If you do we'll have to chat some more as I can explain to you how to get the timing dead on if you don't know how to already.
Cheers
Emissions test? Only in the high density populations like Vancouver and maybe Toronto. I'm in Calgary which is very much a place where emissions testing will likely never exist. we're the oil province of Canada and I'm not sure if you've seen in the news but we have tar sands operations in Northern Alberta by which they believe is a HUGE contributor to green house gas emissions...
Do you know to re-adjust timing via removing the timing belt? If you do we'll have to chat some more as I can explain to you how to get the timing dead on if you don't know how to already.
Cheers
05-16-2009, 10:01 AM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
i have done timing on japs before. tight, but doable. this will help:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
also, i have better manual ordered and should have it today. i can't find one for 91 on the site you sent me link to. unless crx and civic are same. then again, their bittorrent link for crx is not working either.
this car was bought as a student ride from some used dealership. owner was a clueless teenager, a girl. i can bet big bucks this car never had timing belt replaced at 178000 miles.
but, as of now, i am stuck. as i need to drive her to the shop for emissions thing first. THEN i'll take her apart.
i know exactly the sands you talking about. i own some stock in one of the oil sand exploration companies. Talisman Energy, I believe.
practical question: can i remove that flange on the valve cover to permit easy access to the timing belt cover? so that i do not have to remove valve cover every time i need to get to the belt? it appears to be redundant design...
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
also, i have better manual ordered and should have it today. i can't find one for 91 on the site you sent me link to. unless crx and civic are same. then again, their bittorrent link for crx is not working either.
this car was bought as a student ride from some used dealership. owner was a clueless teenager, a girl. i can bet big bucks this car never had timing belt replaced at 178000 miles.
but, as of now, i am stuck. as i need to drive her to the shop for emissions thing first. THEN i'll take her apart.
i know exactly the sands you talking about. i own some stock in one of the oil sand exploration companies. Talisman Energy, I believe.
practical question: can i remove that flange on the valve cover to permit easy access to the timing belt cover? so that i do not have to remove valve cover every time i need to get to the belt? it appears to be redundant design...
05-16-2009, 06:22 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
Talisman Energy.... man alive I knew a lot of people that made a killing on them a while back. Good company.
Yes you can remove the flange/plastic cover thingy on the valve cover. Just make sure you keep your engine bay clean and don't let things fall into the timing belt area. Common sense but I can't tell you how many times I've seen my friends drop a screw or something down there. Technically if things were installed correctly and timed correctly you shouldn't ever need access to the t-belt otherwise. Visual inspections of t-belts is pretty much useless as I've also seen near new looking belts snap clean at one of the ribs.
Yeah if it was a student its almost certain that the t-belt was done unless she regularly took it to the dealership for service which from the sounds of it is unlikely.
did you try to go to www.hondahookup.com
You'll have to register but I just tried it and it downloaded...
Yes you can remove the flange/plastic cover thingy on the valve cover. Just make sure you keep your engine bay clean and don't let things fall into the timing belt area. Common sense but I can't tell you how many times I've seen my friends drop a screw or something down there. Technically if things were installed correctly and timed correctly you shouldn't ever need access to the t-belt otherwise. Visual inspections of t-belts is pretty much useless as I've also seen near new looking belts snap clean at one of the ribs.
Yeah if it was a student its almost certain that the t-belt was done unless she regularly took it to the dealership for service which from the sounds of it is unlikely.
did you try to go to www.hondahookup.com
You'll have to register but I just tried it and it downloaded...
05-16-2009, 06:30 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
no one online has 91 civic manual. CRX - yes. i bought one from haynes today.
http://joezlife.googlepages.com/manuallinks
i don't have much of Talisman, maybe i should. oil is forever, gas engines or not. it is base for organic chemistry and all kinds of synthetics.
as your compatriot Red Green says, "we have ductape for everything". black strip will cover little gap nicely. not worried. i just do not see any good reason for that flange except adding extra work to do. why do i have to remove valve cover to access timing belt? new gasket every time....
http://joezlife.googlepages.com/manuallinks
i don't have much of Talisman, maybe i should. oil is forever, gas engines or not. it is base for organic chemistry and all kinds of synthetics.
as your compatriot Red Green says, "we have ductape for everything". black strip will cover little gap nicely. not worried. i just do not see any good reason for that flange except adding extra work to do. why do i have to remove valve cover to access timing belt? new gasket every time....
05-18-2009, 12:53 AM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
lol red green and his duct tape.
The gasket for the valve cover is actually reusable. I've removed my valve cover 4 times and I've been able to re-install it without a hitch. Just remember to use permatex grey on the little "humps" in the gasket and you'll be good to go.
CRX manual and sedan manual for the most part is the same. Much of the stuff I pulled from my crx is the same as my sedan. But you're definitely right that no one seems to have plain ole civic manual. I wonder why....
The gasket for the valve cover is actually reusable. I've removed my valve cover 4 times and I've been able to re-install it without a hitch. Just remember to use permatex grey on the little "humps" in the gasket and you'll be good to go.
CRX manual and sedan manual for the most part is the same. Much of the stuff I pulled from my crx is the same as my sedan. But you're definitely right that no one seems to have plain ole civic manual. I wonder why....
05-18-2009, 08:06 AM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
i love red green show. my type of humor, esp his projects with duct tape.
good to know about gasket, but it's shot. 1st plug is drenched in oil. every jap we had with those 'shafts" for plugs eventually did it, used to this.
i got 84-91 haynes and 91 crx. i should be ok.
i read emissions yesterday and compared the 2, one from march 31 and one from last wednesday. we passed on one requirement that she failed previously, but CO went up. so, seafoam in fuel and general cleanup did some improvement.
they will scope her today for that emissions waver and i'll know the rest.
will keep me busy for couple days thereafter.
good to know about gasket, but it's shot. 1st plug is drenched in oil. every jap we had with those 'shafts" for plugs eventually did it, used to this.
i got 84-91 haynes and 91 crx. i should be ok.
i read emissions yesterday and compared the 2, one from march 31 and one from last wednesday. we passed on one requirement that she failed previously, but CO went up. so, seafoam in fuel and general cleanup did some improvement.
they will scope her today for that emissions waver and i'll know the rest.
will keep me busy for couple days thereafter.
05-18-2009, 08:53 AM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
i have a crx and the I use the haynes manual too. it's worked good for me whenever i need it. it is a civc/crx maunual, but stevescivic is right there was a dpfi crx too. your civic looks pretty clean too good find for 300. good luck with everything
05-18-2009, 09:15 AM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
man down here in Oregon sedans are a dime a dozen at the j/y, if you feel the need you should have like no problem finding minty replacement parts for the fender bumper and door. also the cruise stuff too. nice find for 300! wish i had that.
05-18-2009, 11:18 AM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
actually, i am absolutely not intending to do any cosmetics. maybe just rust on the roof. for 2 reasons: it'll be parked in Seattle during the day, and it's Honda thieves heaven; also, like i said - i really like them looking bad but driving good. so, i'll have her up and running like a swiss watch mechanically.
though i appreciate everyone's envybut no, she's not for sale.
we have place called Certifit here. it's all new from Taiwan. fenders are about 16 bucks, we replaced bumper fascia on my son's eclipse, 95, with 97 one - was around $100. lights and such are very inexpensive too.
so, any ideas how to check out cruise? i'll fix ac myself. but i have never ever worked on cruise before. hey, see one, do one, learn one, right?
though i appreciate everyone's envy
but no, she's not for sale.we have place called Certifit here. it's all new from Taiwan. fenders are about 16 bucks, we replaced bumper fascia on my son's eclipse, 95, with 97 one - was around $100. lights and such are very inexpensive too.
so, any ideas how to check out cruise? i'll fix ac myself. but i have never ever worked on cruise before. hey, see one, do one, learn one, right?
05-18-2009, 05:22 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
ok, we have some news and need some advice.
she came back from the shop with this conclusion:
http://i40.tinypic.com/2j1l9pk.jpg
basically, the way i read this is:
1. replacing fuel tank cap and running seafoam through the gas for around 100 miles already showed improvement, as codes 1 and 16 are gone; same time, she did not pas on 2 items in march, and she passed one this time with major improvement. so, we are on a good track.
2. now, she has quite loud rockers tap. plus, like i said before, i can not quite get the timing right. so, my train of thoughts is this way:
remove valve cover; check out timing belt and make sure timing marks align; definitely replace belt if so needed; definitely replace valve cover seals and gasket, as 1st spark plug is covered with oil; this itself should do the trick, as with tapping rockers, blowby via valves is inevitable
3. replace PCV valve. also, locate and clean EGR valve, my experience with those on japs is that the way to do it. they always get dirty fast and always influence idle.
4. adjust idle mixture by the book.
anything i'm missing?
she came back from the shop with this conclusion:
http://i40.tinypic.com/2j1l9pk.jpg
basically, the way i read this is:
1. replacing fuel tank cap and running seafoam through the gas for around 100 miles already showed improvement, as codes 1 and 16 are gone; same time, she did not pas on 2 items in march, and she passed one this time with major improvement. so, we are on a good track.
2. now, she has quite loud rockers tap. plus, like i said before, i can not quite get the timing right. so, my train of thoughts is this way:
remove valve cover; check out timing belt and make sure timing marks align; definitely replace belt if so needed; definitely replace valve cover seals and gasket, as 1st spark plug is covered with oil; this itself should do the trick, as with tapping rockers, blowby via valves is inevitable
3. replace PCV valve. also, locate and clean EGR valve, my experience with those on japs is that the way to do it. they always get dirty fast and always influence idle.
4. adjust idle mixture by the book.
anything i'm missing?
05-18-2009, 08:09 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
you seriousely got a good deal with no probloms eather the timing is simple on that thing if you wanted to do it yer self !! then later on you can do a si conversion on it for a little more power (don't have to pull the engine) but it will scream thow !!! lol it would beat a stock 5.0 here in tennessee lol
05-19-2009, 06:28 PM
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Re: need advice on 91 lx
you seriousely got a good deal with no probloms eather the timing is simple on that thing if you wanted to do it yer self !! then later on you can do a si conversion on it for a little more power (don't have to pull the engine) but it will scream thow !!! lol it would beat a stock 5.0 here in tennessee lol
anyhow, she's getting better on CO, but still failed it. we got waver, she's tabbed and driving.
i am garaging her tomorrow and removing valve cover and getting to timing belt. because 1st plug was drenched in oil, i'll have some seafoam poured into the 1st cylinder, that should remove sludge buildup off rings. that might have been cause for alleged blow by exhaust problem.
PCV was completely plugged. apparently, rubber hose that leads to it is rotten inside, because when i pulled it off the valve, chunks of rubber where falling out of it.
later tomorrow, buddy will come over to adjust rockers.
so, what exactly is SI conversion? just outta curiosity.
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