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MY MUGEN B20 CRX PROJECT.(very pic heavy)

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Old 11-23-2008, 07:21 AM
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Default MY MUGEN B20 CRX PROJECT.(very pic heavy)

Might as well show you lot everything that i have done over the last year with my new crx (number 7) hence know forth as the "devils crx" mainly because it seems to own my soul and is only finally semi close to being sorted (insane numbers of man hours and insane money spent on it so far, well over 500 hours and £3000 gbp)

Here she is when i picked her up:































the spec:
1991 UK Honda CRX Vtec.
B20z1 block
B16a head stock.
Ebay 4-2-1 manifold
CAI
skunk2 pro series intake manifold
Spoon 70mm throttle body
light weight flywheel and uprated clutch (quite heavy on the pedal)
mugen "copy" valve cover
Genuine mugen pro 1 body kit (plus a new pro 2 front bumper as the pro 1 for for the 16v front end not the SiR vtec front, hence why it does not fit correctly)
fiberglass front wings.
Fully polybushed everywhere.
eneki RP-01 alloys with good year eagle F1 tyres (off my last crx)
D2 coilovers with mega hard 12kg/mm front springs and 8kg/mm rear springs
front strut brace + cucso rear brace.
dc short shifter (peice of junk, dont ever fit one)
282mm front brake upgrade (from a rover mgzr 180, huge piston and pad differance, bolts right on)
Tanabe super medallion racing exhaust
Carbon fiber sunroof,
2x carbon fiber seats
carbon fiber bonnet.
matt black spray job.
front camber ajusters, rear toe and rear camber units
D2 lower control arms.

spent the first day plumbing in the iacv pipes and tidying up the engine bay (alot of things were wrong with it, in hind sight i wish i got shot of it then :lol
Old 11-23-2008, 07:22 AM
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Anyway first job was to get it mapped up, a trip to my tuner we had a fairly decent map, dyno a few days later:













dyno vid:


would have thought it would have make 200 flywheel, but the nasty looking ebay manifold had holes in it and was about 1.9 inches at the collector due to being butchered, also it was seriously chuffing smoke in vtec! made up a new catchcan system and routed all the pcv hoses to free air via a can, seemed to stop alot of it (still burnt some though)
Old 11-23-2008, 07:23 AM
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got a new short ram 3 inch intake pipe, and a TDM tyi-y header, spent a week getting it to fit, had it altered and welded up to run 2 o2 sensors for obd0 etc




















Old 11-23-2008, 07:24 AM
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made such a huge difference to the power band, also got rid of the racing medallion rear can in favour of the Hyper rear can as its a true 2.5 inch with no tapering down)

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=gqvaRGWyh_Y

sounds awesome foot on the floor and very very quiet when cruising. also paid £120 gbp for a second hand genuine mugen steering wheel + boss to replace the $30 bux nastly ebay thing (cause its **** and looks and feels nasty lol)
Old 11-23-2008, 07:25 AM
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The plan was always to re-paint it and leave it at that, do a few trackdays and generally enjoy the car. so...i spent the next week removing the mugen door caps and side skirts. again a nightmare as they were stuck on with polyurethane seam sealer, and fiberglassed on smooth!

was not pretty underneath:







































Old 11-23-2008, 07:25 AM
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Old 11-23-2008, 07:26 AM
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spent ages hand sanding down the bodyshell to see just how many places had been filled up with fiberglass. started to get worried on the passanger side rear quarter pannel, was alot of filler! so out came the 10k rpm drill and metal wire wheel and spent the next 2 days non stop drilling off filler that was up to 1.5cm thick! it was everywhere, and the quarter was way beyond dead:






















someone told me there was a crashed SiR up near my tuners and he was prepared to sell his shell so i could use it as a donor, waited ages for people to chase him down and gave up hope and started saving for a new OEM honda rear.
Old 11-23-2008, 07:26 AM
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in the meantime i got some ITR cams at a bargain price, so went up to the tuners, we fitted them and re-mapped the car. no problems at all, 100 miles later the engine started making the most horrid tapping noise. comp test showed cylinder 1 down 40psi (was 220 psi per cylinder before)
so off came the head and the valves had kissed the piston tops on 1/2/3 cylinder. lesson learned, itr cams WILL NOT clear b20z pistons as the relifs are to small.
engine was already in pieces so i re-built it all.
YCP b20 ITR spec pistons, new acl rod bearings, new oem honda oil and waterpump, belt and tensioner, new OEM seals everywhere, brand new ITR lma's etc.

spent 2 months waiting for bits and working on the drive under the car ill mostly rain, got it all back and running and it STILL made the tapping noise. took the cams out and replaced with the oem cams and problem solved! guess the cams were fubar

























Old 11-23-2008, 07:28 AM
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Old 11-23-2008, 07:28 AM
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as soon as all that was done it was time to sort all the small things out.
D2 coilovers sold and replaced with Koni yellow shocks and Elbiach pro springs. (far superior for the road! brilliant combo)
front camber ajusters snapped on me going down the road! replaced with new oem upper arms.
carbon sunroof taken apart and re-bolted on as it decided to try to lisf off at speed!
rear interior stripped ready for bodywork.
another new pcv system made up of 14mm hose and running into a huge catch can (old one was to small)
fit the new mugen front bumper
re-soldered the main relay and gauge clocks board as they all had dry joints.

finally a month gone someone got hold of the guy with the sir shell, he had been stripping it and was almost finished and said it was mine for £250 notes, i have a friend who needed a new glassroof unit fir his SiR and said he would go half's with me on it.
The guy put his back out and delayed it for another 4 weeks, finally got to go and trailer the shell back to my Bro in laws garage, spent 15 odd hours cutting it apart, then around 20 hours drilling out spot welds on the rear quarters to separate the outer skins , only to find the arches starting to rot! (i hate seam sealer in there, always traps moisture and causes rot) i have 2 civic arch repair pannels here so my welding guy will be able to use sections of it to replace the rotten arch and spot weld the new quarter on:



















Old 11-23-2008, 07:28 AM
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then to add more problems the guy that wanted the roof decided he no longer wanted it. (great got a glass roof sat here doing sfa now -- )

Been chasing my welding guy now for the last month pushing him to get off his *** and weld the bloody thing and fab me up some new sills so i can get it into the paint shop for its new color! (my local paint shop only paint, they dont weld etc)

Finally got the car re-mapped last night sines the re-build 3 months ago (my tuner has been busy as hell and has been struggling to fit me in), runs so smooth, burns 0 oil and he really got everything spot on,feels even smoother than a stock engine on a stock ecu! cant wait to get it dynoed, should easy make the 200 flywheel target i wanted. (hopefully a few hp more lol)

getting so close to being done now, i just cant wait to get it painted (its its uber sexy new color!), the kit back on it, get it to the dyno and ACTUALLY enjoy it at shows and trackdays.
Old 11-23-2008, 03:49 PM
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wow after just reading this whole thing, I want to shoot the people who use fiberglass for filling stuff in. good work man!
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