91EFH22

Take a pic.

shiroun

I bent the front mount a bit before cutting into it.

It's dark right now, so no photos of it. It's only half cut, i'm paying my friend $20 to cut the ****er. I hurt myself a bit doin it, so **** that.

I sincerely hope i'm done tommorow.

shiroun

I'm 1/3 of an inch off it being mounted. If that. It's literally a pinch away. I tried using a jack to get it into place. Not quite sure on my next move but i'll **** with it later.

91EFH22

Did you tighten the other three mounts? If so, loosen them up then put a block of wood under the oil pan and slowly jack the motor up until you get the mount where you need it. If the motor stops at a certain point youve reached the max jack point and you need to stop. Dont keep jacking or youll dent the pan and cause more damage.

shiroun

I'm cutting out the front mount, not adding it.

It's the tranny front mount i've got issues with. I'm going to jack it up from the axle, its a bit further back and will probably do the trick.

91EFH22

If your cutting it out use a sawzall from the top with a decently long blade. You shouldnt have to jack up anything there will be a little bit of the bracket left over but not enough to be in the way.

shiroun

Cut out what i needed. One spot left i gotta take a little bit off of. The transmission is lined up perfectly and is ready to go. I'm waiting on an angle grinder blade, so i'll probably do my work tommorow. Should be done tommorow afternoon. God willing.

Spug

Sooooooooo much easier to just take out the cross member and cut it off, then reinstall.......................just sayin.

shiroun

I was thinking about that when i first started. But people said they had issues with reinstallation, such as the frame bending a bit. I really DO NOT want to deal with that, so I'm against it.


Edit:

These little wafer disks suck dick. I've gone through 3 trying to cut this last bit off.

91EFH22

You wont have a problem reinstalling the member as long as you thread each bolt in by hand first then go back after theyre all in and torque them down. I feel like a complete idiot that I didnt think to do that first.

shiroun

I've just heard horror stories about it. I'd love to have this crap done already -.-

91EFH22

Well, trust us and you coulda had it done already. Ive taken out and reinstalled them WITHOUT a problem, it will save you time and frustration.... TRUST US!!!!

~sp33~

lolololololololol..... oh man.

You just cut an engine mount off with an angle grinder and you're worried about twisting your chassis by removing a 'bolt on' crossmember?

Amazing.

Mr Envy

what a build. best of luck.... and crossmemberremovel and re installation is a piece of **** to do

shiroun

^^^^
I cut a d-series engine mount out. And, even better, I'm not going back to D. If anything this car would only get upgraded from here.

ANYWAY, one spot left to screw with that I'm gonna knock today. I may have to notch the hood on the webbing so I can close it (because of the radiator) but that's the only real problem I could see.


Edit:

And shes in.

Engine mount and tranny mount are in. All that's left is the T bracket (which i tried to get in before, its quite a bitch. Any tips?) and rear T mount. Then I throw the alternator in and we're in business.

shiroun

I wanted to put a new post in for some new info.

I'm buying an 89 honda civic hatchback potentially, tommorow, for around $150.

I've got a teggy half-rad in my honda right now, mounting it with the fan, etc.

It looks pretty nice, and the engine sits well.





Anyway, if [and when] I get the new car, I'm not going to mess it up like this one. I'll probably do a resto and build the motor.

We'll see :]

TearSDMF89dx

you've definitely made enough mistakes to learn from ....best of luck to ya now set the current hatch on fire and give it a viking funeral!

shiroun

hell no! If this baby runs and drives good I'm keeping her as my DD.

Granted, I don't have an o2 in the car right now, since I need the lower half to the header, so my mileage will probably be a bit shitty.

Whatever. Got the alternator in. Just need the fan and rear T bracket now.

standy xsi

DO NOT GET ANOTHER CAR!! YOU DO NOT HAVE THE SKILL"S AND KNOWLEDGE AND MONEY TO BE WORKING ON TWO CAR'S!!

Im yelling at you ^^ becouse i am the same. I had to admit it myself, was hard.

but its for the best. cbf ranting on about it. but leave that car for when this is finished. if you cant aford to do this car properly how the hell you goin to work on two at the same time!?
i have had to sell my XSI which i said i would never sell but realisticly thats what had to be done.

joliver

WHY WOULD YOU RUN IT WITH HALF A FUKCING EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND NO O2???

shiroun

It's $200 for the car total, $100 to buy it 100 for the steelies. And it'd prob just be a straight swap over, uk?
Ow.

Alcohol and caps dont mix.

I need to get the lower half to the header, not a d-series header, a real damn header.

standy xsi

yea but 200 can get you that header, abit more can get u a proper mount kit instead of hacking the chasis. see wat i mean.

Syper

No, he is right!!!

WHy would you run with half an exhaust manifold?? ( Also Exhaust manifold is the correct term, not header) B series exhaust manifolds also come in 2 pieces.

It won't matter if you don't have an O2 sensor because You will not be able to drive it properly without the other piece, You'll probably be going 20mph in 3rd gear making a bunch of retarded noise. You need the exhaust manifold to be connected to the exhaust or else no DD for you!!

joliver

I swear you have to be retarded or something... You can keep talking **** about d series all you want... but I guarantee that my **** runs like a champ, because I did everything right.

Half an exhaust manifold is ****ing retarded on several different levels, first of all an engine needs this magical **** called back pressure to run properly and you have next to none with half a manifold, not to mention its going run like **** anyways because of the lack or O2. It will also be EXTREMELY loud. I'm just saying, like $40 on ebay and you can get a ****ing header or you can prolly pick up a complete stock manifold with O2 for around $30... Just saying

shiroun

You really get riled up over nothing, don't ya?

B-series manifold and d-series lower header don't work together.

Also, you need to read up my friend. Backpressure is a myth. Yes, on the low end in some engines require decent backpressure to operate, but the benefits on the high-end far outweigh and backpressure needed in the lower spectrum.

Edit:

Anyway, I have to replace the left lower ball joint tommorow, then I should be good on the road.



No fan in right now. Brake lights and tachometer/speedometer are all not working until i figure out how to fix my brake light problem.

Any ideas? Anyone?