KevinEF7

Hey guys, Im at a semi loss here. I have noticed since buying this 89 Crx Si rhd EF7 last year, that it seemingly eats brake fluid. When I got the car I did a semi overhaul, including new oem front calipers, goodridge stainless lines, and a solid fluid flush.

It just seems as if I always have to top it off every couple weeks as its only sitting 2/3rds full when I definetely fill it to the brim everytime.

Ive done a good visual inspection of the master cylinder and all the flex hose connections and calipers and see no evidence of wet fluid. My rear calipers do seem to work, but the rear right e-brake mechanism has never worked, wheel doesnt lock up when engaged.

Now since I cant visually see a leak, I can only assume something is going on inside the master or the brake booster?? Both of those pieces I dont understand in the slightest or how to replace/maintain and I read alot of horror stories from people after replacing those pieces.

Not only that, but my car is RHD, so the booster/resevoir is on the left side of my bay and buying a master and booster will probably be quite expensive.

Where would you guys go with this? Where should I start

jimmy o.

Start at the master Cylinder and work your way back has to be leaking somewhere brake fluid doesn't just evaporate lol

4drEF

You have rear disc or drums?
Asking because drums are notorious for leaky cylinders.

Also, unbolt your MC and slide it away from the booster. See if any fluid is in there - it should be dry.

KevinEF7

I really have looked high and low, there are no leaks visible and all my lines, both hard and soft, are in mint condition with no rust.

I have rear discs

Your allowed to unbolt the master and pull it out a bit? The hard lines wont mind?

jimmy o.

You can remove the cylinder without unbolting the lines from it

zrickety

iTrader: (1)

I would convert the booster and MC to LHD parts if they are not the same. You might have to bend some new brakes lines, but that should be it.

KevinEF7

??? I dont think thats a real solution when I dont even know the problem yet. Nor do I think theres room between my drivers shock tower and the maser to run a LHD style.

I will pull back the master tomorrow and check for leak behind it

~sp33~

If it's using it, it's definitely leaking somewhere. The booster is just a big vacuum box, nothing really happens inside there. Think of the master cylindar as a big syringe, your brake pedal pushes the syringe in and applies fluid pressure to the hard lines.

KevinEF7

Ya I really dont get it. I pulled the master off the booster today, dry back there. Wasnt very clean though, definetely some old looking bits of gunk there. I couldnt pull it right off since my charge pipe was in the way, but it was definetely dry.

I also did a few pedal tests to verify the working order of the master/booster/check valve and everything turned out well.

I walk around the car a week ago when I made this thread and I gave every brake calipers rubber line a little more snug and topped off the fluid. It hasnt dropped any this week it seems, maybe thats all I needed

i'll have to keep an eye on it!

KevinEF7

Im definetely losing fluid, but I see no leak!! Pedal feels strong and solid still. brake booster and master passing every pedal test I could find and throw at them

Fluid resevoir level dropped from full to 70% in 2 weeks. Maybe 400 miles driven. Why do I see no leak?

I plan on buying reman stock rear calipers to replace my aged calipers, my back left e-brake mechanism doesnt work and they are pretty rusty. But all the line connections and everything I can see it dry with no signs of brake fluid

Dunno where to start with it, new 7/8" master?

Crxh22ajdm

Hey man check on the bleeding bolts, I had the same problem and 2 bleeding bolts where bad. Driver side and rear passenger side, they had fluid on the lil hole for the bleeding stuff

BIGef

Try and check if proportioning valve is leaking

KevinEF7

I will pull the wheels off and just give everything a good leak check aswell.

Will try and locate the prop valve aswell

KevinEF7

After removing all 4 wheels and checking all the connections, the right rear bleeder screw was the only thing with wet fluid on it, specifically at the tip of the bleeder and a few drops puddled inside its orifice.

My other (left side) rear caliper, its ebrake mechanism doesnt work but I already knew that. So Im just gonna buy 2 new rear calipers. Clean up the rust, and hopefully rid me of any rear brake problems for a while.

New nissin calipers/brackets, brembo blank rotors, akebono pads, possibly pull the trigger on new e-brake cables? Would off the shelf crx si ebrake cables work on my rhd??

lopa

The cables for RHD and LHD are the same I believe. Don't see why they wouldn't be, the e-brake system is the same for both.

KevinEF7

Should be nothing wrong with a reman cardone caliper right? The info on it is pretty sketchy but it is a fully loaded caliper with bracket and hardware for $80

Just it a nice high temp paint job and off we go