ed62ef9

Swapped a D16Z6 into my 1990 Civic Si.. The car was running with the stock D16A6 before the swap and my D16Z6 was running in a different car before swapped as well.. The engine cranks but no start.. I have tested each spark plug for spark individually and I am getting spark at each one.. new Distributor, plugs and wires so that all checks there.. I get fuel to my fuel rail.. Now I tried testing for fuel by having the injectors out of the intake and turning the key to prime and no fuel shoots out.. For the injectors I have tested negative wires on each clip for continuity from the clip to the end of the jumper harness.. I have checked for power at each injector clip getting 11.88v.. my battery was a little low but injectors are getting power.. I did remove the resistor box and wired 5 wires together hence im getting the power to injectors and still cant figure what could have gone wrong.. Any ideas?

4drEF

Assuming you have the Z6 injectors - you removed the resistor box.

Does the engine start on starting fluid?

Try manually grounding one of the injectors and see if it clicks.
If they click, then you have a problem in the system from distributor to ECU.
Check connector plugs - disconnect, inspect, reconnect.

ed62ef9

I do have the stock Z6 injectors.. I borrowed a different set and ill see if I can install them tomorrow and try them out.. I have not tried using starting fluid yet.. Would I just spray starting fluid in the throttle body to try? wouldnt the problem be no where to the distributor since I am getting spark to each plug and No fuel came out of the injectors to prime.. I shouldnt even need the distributor installed to just test the injectors for prime?

ed62ef9

Used the second set of known good injectors and nothing still .. bought a can of starting fluid too and still wouldnt start the car.. While I was doing this I noticed I am no longer getting fuel to my rail and when I turn the key I cant hear the pump switch on anymore.. Im going to get another main relay and try that out.. any ideas?

4drEF

Distributor doesn't only control spark.
It also sends signals to the ECU that control the injectors.

I missed something in your first post. you said you had fuel to your rail so I assumed you had fuel... but then you went on to say no fuel comes out when you further tested.

Now you aren't hearing the pump prime so it's looking like main relay or fuel pump.

Engine should start on starting fluid either way. While cranking you push and hold a little on the gas pedal and shoot some fluid into the throttle body.

Former User

Unplug OBD1 ECU connector A and test whether pins A23 and A24 in the connector have continuity to body ground.

Former User

True.

Maybe the OP has two or more separate problems because he said the injectors don't spray fuel.

v4lu3s

which distributor are you using?

4drEF

Have you tried this yet?

ed62ef9

Ok I swapped out my main relay and I am now again getting fuel to the rail.. Disconnected plug "A" and checked continuity from 23 and 24 to the batterys negative cable and I am getting continuity there.. The distributor I am using is a TD-42U.. Now I am not fully understanding how to ground the injector.. You say with the key in the ON position to add a ground to the wire that doesnt go to the wires that lead to the resistor box which are the power wires so you basically want me to splice into the injectors negative wire and adding a second ground to the body and see if it clicks?

Former User

Try swapping in a known good P28 ECU.

Is spark bright white at all 4 spark plugs?

You can insert a sewing needle into the injector ground wire socket at rear of the injector connector. Then ground the needle to the engine.

ed62ef9

Pee Pee.. Rust in my fuel tank

ed62ef9

The P28 ECU I am using was working fine in a car that I crashed.. I since then tried it again on my uncles 95 Civic and it started his car up.. Could it still be an issue with my ECU even though it started his car after?

ed62ef9

Good idea! Ill ask my mom to see if shes got sewing needles.. akward lol..

Former User

This^ suggests that the ECU is fine.

Is there continuity between the injector clip ground wire and the ECU for each injector?

Any CEL codes? For the injectors to pulse, the ECU must receive the signal from the crank sensor inside the distributor. Have you tested the sensor and its two wires? Is spark bright white at all 4 spark plugs?

4drEF

Actually, I was thinking to add ground all the way at the ECU plug.
The ECU sends the ground signal.
You could just as well test for continuity from one of the ECU pins for an injector all the waqy to the respective wire at the actual injector clip.

If you do have continuity, then it's looking like fault in distributor, wires from distributor to ECU, or ECU. RonJ is one step ahead of me (as usual)

ed62ef9

As I mentioned in my OP I did check for continuity from each injector clip to the jumper harness clip and did get continuity for the negative wires on A1,A2,A3,A5... Would I still need to check the injector by manually grounding it? ... I have not checked the crank sensor or ECU for codes.. Ill have to check and see what wires off my jumper harness need to be connected to check codes in a bit.. I did get spark for each plug but I dont remember how bright it was if that matters but did get spark on each one.. When I did the Distributor wires and looked up how I came across two different charts to do the obd0 to obd1 online but I color matched the wires and the large white to the yellow/green..

4drEF

Nope - it looks like your injector wiring is good to go. Ground would just ensure that they open and close (the click is them actuating).
The ground RonJ had you check are the ground to ECU. If those were bad you would probably have a solid CEL light and also would not be getting injector ground pulses from the ECU.

So, in my opinion, it leaves your distributor+wiring at this point.
Any chance of borrowing a working one to test with?

Color matching, except the large white, is correct.
This might help if you decide to check for continuity to the ECU pins.

OBD1 ECU pinout
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring/o...schematics.gif


You can check for ECU codes by grounding the wire that goes to D4 on the OBD1 ECU.
Good jumper harnesses will route this to the stock service connector wiring so you can still just put a paperclip in the blue connector under the dash as you would have if it were stock.

ed62ef9

Thanks 4drEF.. I couldnt find my instructions on my jumper harness but traced the wire on D4 and grounded it and got my check engine light to blink the codes.. now im new to counting cel codes but what im getting is four flashes and a quick one after that so looking up obd1 codes that would be for the O2 Sensor which is one code im expecting to get because I havent swapped out my obd0 O2 sensor plug for an OBD1 plug so I dont have my O2 sensor hooked up yet.. I get a pause from that code and next one is one flash then five quick flashes after it so I believe that would be code for "Ignition Output Signal".. Now that sounds like something to do with my distributor or the wiring.. I will try and get a video up to see if I can get confirmation on my code readings.. The distributor I am using is a new remanufactured one I just put on this engine so my distributor could still be faulty at this point since it hasnt been fully tested to run an engine.. I do have access to a spare known good used distributor my uncle has laying around so I could try that one if needed..

ed62ef9

Here is a video link to confirm my ECU is throwing out code 15 on my check engine light flashes for "Ignition Output Signal".. yesterday it was flashing I believe the O2 sensor but not today even though I havent fixed it.

http://youtu.be/Ua6GbtpVjFk

Former User

Reset the ECU and then crank the engine for 30 seconds to see if code 15 repeats.

ed62ef9

Im pretty sure code 15 remains because ive been disconnecting my battery every night because the pad stopper on my break light switch broke and my brake lights are left on so I disconnect the battery unless I do have to pull a fuse to reset the ECU? Like when I went to take video earlier I connected the battery and turn the key to ON position an no codes showed up until I cranked the engine the code came back up..

ed62ef9

A little good news.. Finally got my uncles used distributor to test on my engine and my engine started right up!... only thing is that my RPMs are running high at 3,500 at idle.. mind I dont have any of the cooling hooked up so it may be because of that and I switched out the TPS and have to calibrate it still.. I also messed with timing so could be that too.. So got to go warranty out my distributor and mess with my car some more..