If I Have $2,000 And Want To Do A Swap Which....
#51
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Re: (CoreyR)
Oh, Thank you very much bro. That helped alot, I think I am going to go with the B18a OBD-1 ? I think, some one said to go with OBD-1, What are the ups and downs about OBD-0 or OBD-1
#52
Re: (Aaron EF9)
obd1 ecu has alot more options when it comes to tuning and programs..And if you get a 92+ motor you have to convert to obd1 anyway to be legal in cali..
But you can stay obd0 and run turboedit or zdyne,,But they're arent many choices
But you can stay obd0 and run turboedit or zdyne,,But they're arent many choices
#53
Re: (Mr.speaker)
OBD1 is the way to go. you can get a complete conversion harness from OBD0 to OBD1 from rywire.com for under $200. like this guy said there are alot more tuning options for OBD1.
#55
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Re: If I Have $2,000 And Want To Do A Swap Which.... (Aaron EF9)
Engine: 1996-1998 USDM B20B
Displacement: 1973cc
Compression Ratio: 8.8:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 126hp@5400rpm/133lb-ft@4300rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
ECU: Don’t know/care. You wont use it.
These are from 97-98 CRV’s. Don’t be fooled by the low hp/tq rating, these motors came with the crappiest intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds known to man. If you do this swap you wont use either as the intake manifold wont fit in your car (its called the giraffe for a reason) and you will get a different header (even a stock integra manifold is WAY better). The USDM B20B is essentially a B18B1 with 84mm sleves/pistons. Everything else is the same: head, cams, crank, rods, etc. So you can think of it as a bored, low compression B18a/b.
If this is true wouldn't it be better to get the B20 Then the B18 ?
Displacement: 1973cc
Compression Ratio: 8.8:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 126hp@5400rpm/133lb-ft@4300rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
ECU: Don’t know/care. You wont use it.
These are from 97-98 CRV’s. Don’t be fooled by the low hp/tq rating, these motors came with the crappiest intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds known to man. If you do this swap you wont use either as the intake manifold wont fit in your car (its called the giraffe for a reason) and you will get a different header (even a stock integra manifold is WAY better). The USDM B20B is essentially a B18B1 with 84mm sleves/pistons. Everything else is the same: head, cams, crank, rods, etc. So you can think of it as a bored, low compression B18a/b.
If this is true wouldn't it be better to get the B20 Then the B18 ?
#56
Re: If I Have $2,000 And Want To Do A Swap Which.... (Aaron EF9)
not for turbo. the sleeves are thinner than an LS. they can take some boost but not close to as much as a B18A/B.
for all motor sure they will be better due to displacement.
for all motor sure they will be better due to displacement.
#57
Join Date: Feb 2002
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Re: (Aaron EF9)
z6 motor with a mild build.. turbo with a good tune...
my car, 400 shell, 400 swap with z6 longblock, a6 tranny, act clutch, aem gear, conversion harness.. 1000 turbo kit with management.. 2k for a car with turbo, tuned and will run low 12's with slicks.. ran 13.1@112 before my map took a **** and couldnt run anymore.. only got in 2 okay runs outta the 7 that i tried to make.. 112 traps will do me low 12's with slicks.. i could've pulled 12.6-8 that night if my map didnt **** on me...
id say go that route.. dont waste the money on a dual cam zc motor.. they're junk.. b16 isnt going to get you very far with 2k..
edit: i just now read about ls motors.. err.. i eat up majority of ls swaps, wheter it be turbo or nitrous or ls/vtec.. ive taken out plenty of built cars as well.. my friend on the board can vouch for that.. he has a 1.9l gsr turbo.. 350whp on 15lbs.. i beat him everytime at the track.. though hes full interior and his car has more potential i still beat him.. as well as a 2.0l gsr turbo on the boards.. i say d16z6 or d15b turbo...
my car, 400 shell, 400 swap with z6 longblock, a6 tranny, act clutch, aem gear, conversion harness.. 1000 turbo kit with management.. 2k for a car with turbo, tuned and will run low 12's with slicks.. ran 13.1@112 before my map took a **** and couldnt run anymore.. only got in 2 okay runs outta the 7 that i tried to make.. 112 traps will do me low 12's with slicks.. i could've pulled 12.6-8 that night if my map didnt **** on me...
id say go that route.. dont waste the money on a dual cam zc motor.. they're junk.. b16 isnt going to get you very far with 2k..
edit: i just now read about ls motors.. err.. i eat up majority of ls swaps, wheter it be turbo or nitrous or ls/vtec.. ive taken out plenty of built cars as well.. my friend on the board can vouch for that.. he has a 1.9l gsr turbo.. 350whp on 15lbs.. i beat him everytime at the track.. though hes full interior and his car has more potential i still beat him.. as well as a 2.0l gsr turbo on the boards.. i say d16z6 or d15b turbo...
#58
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Re: (CoreyR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBD1 is the way to go. you can get a complete conversion harness from OBD0 to OBD1 from rywire.com for under $200. like this guy said there are alot more tuning options for OBD1. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Or you can make one for free.
Or you can make one for free.
#62
Re: (jgt8229)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jgt8229 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought hydro trannys where better? can some one tel me the diff between them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are better because they are typically newer and shift smoother (IMO). to run a hydro tranny in a cable tranny car you need a cable to hydro conversion kit w/mounts which is why most people stick with cable. plus cable trannies are cheaper. a hydro B16 tranny is easily twice as expensive as a cable.
they are better because they are typically newer and shift smoother (IMO). to run a hydro tranny in a cable tranny car you need a cable to hydro conversion kit w/mounts which is why most people stick with cable. plus cable trannies are cheaper. a hydro B16 tranny is easily twice as expensive as a cable.
#65
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Re: (jgt8229)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jgt8229 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">save for a gsr if your going to boost it </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd have to save ALOT, to get the GSR compared to what I can find an LS for, Mabey 1/3 or less of the price of a GSR.
Thanks for you input/thoughts.
Anyone else? Keep em coming. Im still not convinced.
Thanks
I'd have to save ALOT, to get the GSR compared to what I can find an LS for, Mabey 1/3 or less of the price of a GSR.
Thanks for you input/thoughts.
Anyone else? Keep em coming. Im still not convinced.
Thanks
#66
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Re: (Aaron EF9)
i keep telling you.. best choice i would say for 2k is a z6 swap turbo.. like i said.. my car can do low 12's with slicks.. stock z6 with a close geared si trans and apexi kit with 15lbs tuned owns you..
#67
Re: (turbo_ef9)
Sounds like you want to do a low budget build.... Just like the Dude above me... Build a D-series... hehe Check out the Bisimoto CRX =] 10 Sec CRX All Motor/NON-Vtec Right? Anyways.. you can build the Stock a6 that can support 8 psi on stock motor... That's pretty quick right there... A Homemade kit can go from 500-700/800? You have plenty more money to Spend on the build or upgrades =] just my .02
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wow this thread should help me a lot...i just picked up a CRX and this is my first honda and im planning on doing a swap...wasn't sure which is the best route. i have about the same ~$2000 to spend but i got more if needed...ppl tell me b16 is good and easy to swap in...other say b20. hmm more suggestions that would be great
#72
Re: (supracrx)
They're Both Good swaps... but you have to ask yourself on what you goals are. If you are always going to have some kind of consistant cash flow then a B-series will be wonderful. If you have Major $$$ Then step up to an H or even a K =]. But most people can't offord a major swap so they stay nice low budget swap.
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