gavin1980

So instead of buying a BEAKS rear lower tie bar for $109 plus 18.48 for ground shipping, I decided to make my own for 18.03 and 1 hr 1/2 of my time.
This is for my RACE car, not SHOW car, so if you don't like it then just look at something else! for those who have any interest I'll answer any question regarding this.












THESE ARE ALL THE TOOLS I USED




As for the GGM logo it's my official logo, GAVIN GARDENER MOTORWORKS

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/g-mans-89-4dr-ef-2640559/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/g-mans-89-4dr-ef-pt-2-a-2693675/

Radim

iTrader: (4)

I like it.

Make me one!

pholife

iTrader: (2)

looks great! if sell, pls let me know.

jdmwannabee

is that going to rust?

Radim

iTrader: (4)

Looks like aluminum, so i don't think so.

Ass$nyper

uhhhh...

The engineer in me says wtf

What grade of metal did you use?

What gave you the idea to fabricate it in this manner?

For some unknown reason i'll play nice.

gavin1980

it is aluminum so it won't!

gavin1980

I might, if so I'll let you know for sure.

gavin1980

It's aluminum. I wanted the BEAKS but didn't have the money,
so I did what have being doing so far...build it if I feel it's possible

Ass$nyper

I've fabbed up many parts on my own, and customized oem and aftermarket.

But ... how did you get this design in your head ?

Also Alum is graded, just a metal doesn't mean much it could be soda cans or NASA worthy.....

Fo-Do Fanatic

Give you 50 bucks and you send it to me. I'll pay shipping

No but seriously, do it. And it looks good too.

8dxhatchy8

i like your creativity bro......hate on haters

Tornadom

I would like to start by telling you how great it is that you went out of your way to build this on your own... I'd like to. Like being the key word.

DIY stuff is great if done right, and in many ways is how larger companies got their start. I am not a chassis engineer, so I cannot accurately assess you work, but as half way decent at-home-fabricator I am left scratching my head. Your choice of materials is tough to argue with, because I don't have information about it other than it cost $18.00. But why would you choose to bolt it together? Welding isn't that hard, nor is that expensive if you are not equipped with a welder or skills.

I won't even mention the terrible RLCA angles or defuser. Oops, I think I did.

Ass$nyper

And their cheap bushings/

opps.

blox + heim = budget badass rlca (rlca = last step to shave weight)

Tornadom

On my DB8 I was using stock RLCAs, and at times stock ITR RLCAs. I never found issue with them, largely due to rest of the chassis being a wet noodle. I see the OPs car is caged, so perhaps he was able to cure the wet noodle syndrome that is older Hondas and he is now able to use his suspension 100% effectively. After I stitch and seam welded the chassis on my Integra I noticed a big improvement, but I wasn't going to cage something I drive on the street. His is a race car though, so I imagine his license plate and "illest" plate frame are for decoration while parked.

Anyhow, I am sure the OPs homebuilt brace will do a good job bracing the lower suspension mounting points underneath the cage. After all, a homemade lower chassis brace is the perfect way to slap a reputable fab shop after they cage your car for you. Or, perhaps the OP bolted his cage together as well, for a total of $18.03.

JDMefHATCH7

im feeling this for some reason
take it to the track and let us know how it worked

Ass$nyper

The flex of the screws almost makes me cringe.

OP under heavy turning loads do you feel those little guys will hold the bar on?

I don't see any sway bar in the rear, are you going full sway less (super high rates) or just plowing to hell and back? Is the sway relocated or hidden by this tie bar?

cruiseMain

lol

Tornadom

(01:39:12 PM) mrawesome: and I could LOL all day at that cage.

(01:39:32 PM) CaptainWin: edited

(01:39:40 PM) mrawesome: i bought a weld in 8.50 cert cage for the bird... that's a mans cage a real well laid out pro NHRA cage. This is mixedgrade metal look at it

(01:40:47 PM) mrawesome: I love the plate comment

(01:40:50 PM) mrawesome: subtle jab.

(01:40:57 PM) CaptainWin: Your cage was designed to satisfy the safety requirements of a sanctioning body, his was built to impress his homies at StarBucks

(01:41:08 PM) mrawesome: his homies must love pcp.

(01:41:22 PM) CaptainWin: I bet they have a gallon of it

(01:41:28 PM) mrawesome: if i saw that cage after laughing i'd really warn him don't drive that car and offer to remove it free for safety

(01:41:29 PM) mrawesome: LLOLLOL

(01:41:53 PM) CaptainWin: Who built his cage? It looks crooked to me

(01:42:30 PM) mrawesome: I think joe the drugged out welder.

(01:42:47 PM) CaptainWin: Is it me, or is his harness bar screaming "spinal compression" in the event of a crash? Shouldn't the harness bar be up a few inches from there?

(01:43:25 PM) mrawesome: nah dawg if it sits that high you cant like umm it's too high for the weight low center of gravity brah

(01:43:38 PM) CaptainWin: LOL, oh. Thanks.

(01:44:08 PM) CaptainWin: 3rd brake light intact, interior otherwise gone. Is it NASA or SCCA that require a 3rd brake light for race cars?

(01:44:25 PM) mrawesome: LOL i think DOT

(01:45:18 PM) CaptainWin: Not familiar with that sanctioning body. Are they the ones that host the "24 hours of Local Canyon" and "Mountain Road Showdown"?

(01:45:37 PM) mrawesome: hahaha

(01:45:42 PM) mrawesome: and taking grandma to eye doctor

(01:46:46 PM) CaptainWin: Taking grandma to the eye doctor? I don't know about where you live, but out here blind grandmas drive themselves to the eye doctor.

(01:47:13 PM) mrawesome: LOL

(01:47:41 PM) CaptainWin: My rear subframe brace was a custom setup that ST made (They are local, so I let them play with my car/give me free ****)

(01:48:20 PM) mrawesome: posted again

(01:48:25 PM) mrawesome: oh awesome

(01:48:59 PM) mrawesome: my rear lower tie bar is Skunk2 and must say top notch. To a driver who knows his car i noticed a great improvement, ride got lil rougher but, well worth it as it was more stable and bit of weight in the butt assisted rotation.

(01:49:01 PM) CaptainWin: The part that attached to the chassis was 1/4" steel (good steel, not tin-can steel). The cross bar portion was tubular steel, very thick and extrude honed in the non stress bearing areas.

(01:49:50 PM) CaptainWin: Yeah, s2 had some good products

(01:50:43 PM) CaptainWin: Mine was modeled after the Comptech rear setup, but improved upon their design and was non adjustable since it was made specifically for my car. The rear bar was a 23mm unit with heim jointed end links.

(01:50:48 PM) mrawesome: Oh slick

(01:50:55 PM) mrawesome: ASR has a 32mm bar for my car now :D

(01:51:15 PM) CaptainWin: That ASR setup can destroy a non caged car. True story

(01:51:55 PM) mrawesome: on 4th gens no brace just a BIG bar it's hollow and straight >_>

(01:51:56 PM) CaptainWin: Even though the bar is hollow (available in different thicknesses), it is anywhere from 500% to 1,200% stiffer than the OEM 14mm rear sway.

(01:52:17 PM) mrawesome: i run a 24mm rear now it's fast... too fast for me i need a front sway

(01:53:19 PM) mrawesome: i think an OEM front sway + 32? mebbe?

(01:53:30 PM) CaptainWin: I've seen/contemplated buying the ASR setup. Ultimately, I resorted to 23mm rear, the perfect spring rates and disconnecting the front bar for track days or auto-x. When you don't over lower your car, and thus have plenty of suspension travel, you can do things like that.

(01:53:36 PM) CaptainWin: OEM front is 25mm

(01:53:47 PM) mrawesome: True :D

(01:53:54 PM) mrawesome: lowering = not as win as not lowering and handling

(01:54:16 PM) CaptainWin: I still think that 32mm is just too much. You'd have better luck with spring rates, and less bar than more bar and the wrong rates

(01:54:20 PM) mrawesome: probably.

(01:54:30 PM) mrawesome: to be honest you are right but... the size is tempting

(01:54:43 PM) CaptainWin: Why are we discussing this here, why aren't we discussing this in his post?

(01:54:48 PM) mrawesome: hahha

(01:54:51 PM) mrawesome: i want his thoughts

(01:55:00 PM) CaptainWin: ctrl + c, ctrl +v FTW

(01:55:05 PM) mrawesome: YES

(01:55:05 PM) mrawesome: hahaah

(01:55:47 PM) mrawesome: doooo it

(01:56:33 PM) CaptainWin: Want me to copy/paste all of our conversation?

(01:56:36 PM) mrawesome: yes LOL

(01:56:39 PM) CaptainWin: okay

(01:56:45 PM) mrawesome: tag it too be like Mr: Awesome and Capt Win

Ass$nyper

Who are those two fellows, I would love speak with them.

Tornadom

They seem to be sharp cookies to me.

beansandrice

it looks cool but it should be boxed and welded up.

gavin1980

Sure but let me see first, on feb. 6 i'm going to an autocross even close by me so i'll see how it holds up....if I need to make any changes or not! I think it should be fine though considering that BEAKS made their almost the same way.

gavin1980

THANKS for the love!

Ass$nyper

Still trying to be nice on this...

You dodged any questions posed so, how about this, what makes you think BEAKS makes a good bar?

You'd have to hold it in high respect to copy it correct?