jadkar

I have Full Race traction bars in my car and I have absolutely zero clunk noise. I have squeaks and rattles coming from everything else in the car but nothing from the traction bars

88 rex

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jadkar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have Full Race traction bars in my car and I have absolutely zero clunk noise. I have squeaks and rattles coming from everything else in the car but nothing from the traction bars </TD></TR></TABLE>

You might have heard mine clunk the day you were in it. It did it once after accelerating somewhat hard.

jadkar

hahaha.....how good do you think my memory is

BTW....I was thinkn' of taking a ride down to your area this weekend, but the ran has me bummed

88 rex

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jadkar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hahaha.....how good do you think my memory is

BTW....I was thinkn' of taking a ride down to your area this weekend, but the ran has me bummed </TD></TR></TABLE>


You might have remembered. It was a loud clunk at your feet.

Dyn0speed

i have a fullrace bar worth every penny of it. 0 noise. if you hear noise its probaly the installation fault. make sure the 19mm bolt that mounts the member to the frame is tightly secure. my friend has one and it makes clunk noise on acc and hard brake, turns out the 2 bolts were loose. good luck

full-race

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol, generally speaking though when u delete bushings for something more precise and less forgiving, noises tend to resonate into the cabin. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, but the rear heim joint is not more precise, the factory stock mount is actually more solid.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The trouble area that I have seen most often is where the radius rod bolts to the crossmember. Most of the time, it is by means of a couple of light gauge steel tabs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This area in my opinion will make or break a traction bar setup, heim joints are usually used because they allow more movement back there which the hole point of a traction bar is the opposite. The solid radius rod mounting style ( OEM ) is the best when it comes to stability, but unless you use a one piece radius rod ( OEM ) they usually break.

civicandy

how much of a difference is there between using poly bushing for the radius rods/torsion bars vs. the upgrade to the traction bars?

d357r0y

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much of a difference is there between using poly bushing for the radius rods/torsion bars vs. the upgrade to the traction bars?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Night & Day!

civicandy

thats good to know. thanks.

turbotommy

if you do a little searching there are some threads about how the FR traction bar held up in a roll-over, front end collision, jumping, hitting a tree, etc. i have first hand experience with our radius rods w/ heim joints surviving a 40mph head on collision into a light pole.

lets get some pics in here.


edit: ive had the traction bar setup on two crx's and a dc and i cant recall any clunking.


Modified by turbotommy at 1:02 PM 8/10/2006