Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

EDIT: Almost a year so I'm bringing this thread back.

Basic outline of the issue followed by attempted fixes:

Solid CEL
Fuel Pump does not prime
No Fuel at the Fuel Filter

I hardwired the main relay and the fuel pump primed.
CEL did not go away.
Car did not start.

Thermostat Housing Ground cleaned/tightened
Trans ground checked
Valve Cover ground checked
New fuel pump

I had given up on this for awhile and I thought I would just replace the fuel pump and that may fix it. I did replace the fuel pump this week and I've still got a solid CEL and the car doesn't run. So I'm starting over with my troubleshooting and hopefully I find something new.

v4lu3s

when you turn the ignition to the on position (when it should prime) how much voltage do you see on the positive to the fuel pump?

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

The fuel pump has 2 yellows and 2 blacks. One side of the clip sees 6V and the other has 0V. This is with the key clicked into the 'run' position. I believe I should be seeing 12V on one side. I think the other side is the fuel level sensor? I'm not sure though. That's why I'm here. I'm having a heck of a time googling too.

James89DX

Have you tried disconnecting the harness under the rear seat and putting power directly to it and seeing if it will pump? It's real easy if you've got a power drill battery and some alligator clips.

This way you can instantly isolate which side of the harness the problem resides.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I actually took 12V switched from the fuse box and a wire from the NEG battery terminal to the fuel pump and couldn't get it to do anything. I will say I was plenty frustrated with it by the time I tried that. I will see if I can get it to prime.

My manual says there is a 3 pin connector. My fuel pump connector is a 4 pin connector. Buh?

Anyway, I'm going to give this a shot today/tomorrow.






That's the fuel supply troubleshooting. I also have the troubleshooting for a solid CEL. I should be able to isolate the grounding issue if there is one in regards to the ECU.

smilindave

Freeman
I finally resorted to removing each ground, cleaning the ring terminal, removing all corrosion or paint and reinstalling them with a star type washer to facilitate better, long term electrical connection. This was the only and best solution I could come up with, no further issues with grounds so far.
Regards
Dave

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Fine advice. I think I may have some ground issues between the connections (open wires). I will triple check my terminals though.

ProjetEF

Before you try anything else you should really make run the pump on direct 12v


I doubt about the fuelpump ground himself....

when you take the voltage at the pump connector, do you put your black terminal on the black wire pin or you put it on the body ?

like you said, you should have 12 volt between the + wire of the pump and the body of the car
if not, a wire must be cut somewere...

if its not the pump ground, i would try running a new wire from the main relay (pin 7) to the pump...

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Direct 12v? Straight from the battery?

When I was getting voltage, I used the black wire. I will try the chassis.

I will try a new wire from pin 7 regardless.

I am going to take a look at this tomorrow, again. It is a shame it is at my father's house. It's a little out of the way so I can't work on it on a daily basis.

James89DX

Drill battery is easier :D

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I use corded tools! Just get more power for cheaper.

Also, 12V isn't hard to run from the battery. I have alligator jumpers that I made with pins on the other side. I do stuff like this often...

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I failed step 7 while I was doing the troubleshooting the main relay harness.

The Blue/White to Ground did not have battery voltage. I tried to troubleshoot the ignition switch but I couldn't find anything following the write up I was using.

Ideas?

James89DX

It's always fun in service manuals when they result in basically "inspect wiring", when the bulk of the wiring in question is hidden or completely inaccessible. Doesn't the ignition switch have a plug-in harness under the steering column? You could didconnect it there and do some troubleshooting with your multi meter

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I started, but at one point it just check continuity between the two white wires on the back of the ignition switch. I was suppose to have voltage in the 'on' position. I had constant voltage... So I stopped that inspection because I thought it was wrong or I pulled up the wrong car or something.

Still searching for reasons why this would happen out of no where.

4drEF

Solid CEL makes me think this has nothing to do with the wires at the pump.

Try hooking a jumper cable from ground on the battery to the thermostat housing.

If you still get a solid CEL, try measuring for ground continuity directly at the ECU connector.
If they all check out, check your positive voltage inputs at the ECU.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Alright, I will check the ECU ground continuity.

If my negative battery terminal is connected, I can check for continuity between the negative battery terminal and the pin, correct?

I tried to run a wire from the battery to the thermostat ground. I saw no difference.

4drEF

You can go pin to chassis rather than all the way to the battery.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Suggested good ground in the area? Any unpainted surface 'should' work, right? I'll most likely take another jab at it this Friday.

4drEF

I like the metal support hoop that is behind the radio/climate control console.

J . K .

i am having the same problem with my bone stock honda crx.

it ran before being parked for 4-5 years.

it has a solid check engine light, fuel pump doesnt prime.

i know the ecu and main relay is good because i tried it on a friends car and it worked

however, following the service manual, i failed at step 7 also.
when i probe the white/blue wire and the black #2 wire with the key in the start position, i get no power.

also when i jump the #5 and #7 with a metal paper clip, i get no fuel still. the paper clip gets very hot very fast!

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Mine sat for a couple days, not years, so the cause is probably different. But it would seem your symptoms are the exact same as mine.

Also, did not get to see the car this weekend. Maybe this week will be better.

ProjetEF

If the paper clip is getting very hot its because amps goes UP, probably mean that your fuel pump as seized

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

A whole year with this issue. How time flies.

v4lu3s

tried a different ecu?

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I have not. I can't find anyone who will let me plug my ECU into their car. And I really don't feel like spending $50 to have it bench tested plus shipping each way. I may just buy a chipped ECU, try it, and then resell it if that doesn't work.

To the for sale section!