LankorDie

I have a 1988 crx si w/

Set up:
Hmotorsonline-Integra XSi JDM b16a
Hasport-engine mounts
Honda-JDM SiR shift linkage
Honda-90 Integra clutch cable
Exedy-S1 pressure plate/clutch

Problem:
I did the swap 5 months ago now, and when we got done the car worked fine. The clutch was hard and you had to push it ALL THE WAY to the floor to shift. But that can be expected with a new clutch so after I broke it in everything worked perfect.

However after a while it would get hard to shift, first reverse would stop working then after a while it would get hard to put it into first. So I would stop the car, and tighten the clutch cable adjustment nut and it would work perfect again! Well this kept progressing the nut was super tight and there was almost no space to tighten it further, and after a while the clutch arm was almost all the way engauged all the time, and yet I still could not shift.

The arm at this point was only traveling a 1/2 inch or so, and the pedal assembly was taking the rest of the travel. So my clutch pedal broke off the assembly. After fixing that I took everything else appart, and I can't figure out what is wrong?

Nothing is broke, nothing looks bent. The engine/clutch/mounts don't even have a oil change on them..

The only thing I found that was weird is that I ended up getting the wrong size clutch, it was for the larger imput shaft spir size. however it was close enough to work, and I also tryed the stock clutch and same problem. it's like that arm has WAY to much free play?

I have been driven crazy from 2 months of trouble shooting this problem, if any of you can help or have idea's PLEASE let me know!

My old thread [url=https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1702377]
Another thread on this subject: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1707180
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1702377[/url]





Modified by LankorDie at 5:30 PM 10/3/2006


Modified by LankorDie at 5:42 PM 10/3/2006

89EF_Turbo

Is the tranny a usdm S1? Did you change the oil in the trans/check to see it's at the proper level? I had some similar problems with my jdm S1, thought it was the clutch so I did the same thing with the cable you did...same thing. Turned out hmotors emptied the oil out of the tranny before shipping (who woulda thought ) Get some syncromesh and put that in and see.

C1CRX

the stock SIR linkage is the problem you shouldn't have used it on the integra XSI b16 its different than the CRX/Civic b16 in order for it to work it must be modified. thanks my paypal is JCG2188@aol.com

crx_88_si

to confirm above give hasport a call and ask if the JDM EF SiR linkage works... if not, while you're on the phone order one

if they say it should work i'd replace the clutch cable as it may be stretched. (you did not say if it was new or not).

C1CRX

call hasport and ask but make sure to specify its a integra b16 im sure its the linkage you are having a problem with then you can send me my money. lol

LankorDie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C1CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the stock SIR linkage is the problem you shouldn't have used it on the integra XSI b16 its different than the CRX/Civic b16 in order for it to work it must be modified. thanks my paypal is JCG2188@aol.com </TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright stop that ****. I don't want to confuse other people with you lying about the problem.

I do not think it is the linkage, they worked perfect for two months, why would the linkage just stop working? Also that has nothing to do with why I have so much play in the clutch engaugment arm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to confirm above give hasport a call and ask if the JDM EF SiR linkage works... if not, while you're on the phone order one

if they say it should work i'd replace the clutch cable as it may be stretched. (you did not say if it was new or not).</TD></TR></TABLE>
The clutch cable is not streched, I have tryed 3 diffrent ones all with the same problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89EF_Turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the tranny a usdm S1? Did you change the oil in the trans/check to see it's at the proper level? I had some similar problems with my jdm S1, thought it was the clutch so I did the same thing with the cable you did...same thing. Turned out hmotors emptied the oil out of the tranny before shipping (who woulda thought ) Get some syncromesh and put that in and see.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fluid should not matter, as far as the clutch engauging. It's a cable J1 tranny, and I tryed syncromesh already before I took everything apart.

LankorDie

Look how high up the arm sits inorder to make it shift..


Here is a photo of how tight the nut got inorder to disengauge the clutch so I could shift.


God I just want to drive my damn crx

crx_88_si

well have you done this test...

depress the clutch pedal, put it in 1st and start it, does the car jump forward?

this would tell you if the clutch was even dis-engaging. and clutch that doesnt dis-engage would definately make it hard to shift, if at all.

this tranny came from hmo?

i think they are saying the JDM linkage wont work (and i kinda agreed otherwise no1 would buy aftermarket (hasport) ones) is that the JDM honda mounts put the engine in a different spot than hasport mounts.

call hasport and ask. what harm could it do.

you mentioned 1st and rev were hard, how about 2, 3, 4, 5?

C1CRX

i say its the linkage and you get mad??? i have personaly seen the stock SIR linkage cause shifting problems but w/e you say man. good luck

uglyrex

my two cents would be too thick of a pressure plate for the flywheel/cluthc combo you have.
sounds more like it will not disengauge?
i.e. the pressure plate keeps turning when the clutch is depressed i would bet that the car is easy to shift if you kill the motor and put it in gear?
might have to pull tranny
how does the peadl feel? is it hard? does it have alot of freeplay?engauge high or low
i will check back later and try to get you in the right direction

also there needsa to be no slack in the pivot ball on the clutch arm inside the tranny if it is worn out not good
slack ===bad

coot_er

it sounds like that problem i have. i think mine is because the spring for the release arm is broken and when the throw out bearing meets the PP it is all cocked.

LankorDie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C1CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i say its the linkage and you get mad??? i have personaly seen the stock SIR linkage cause shifting problems but w/e you say man. good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought you were just kidding, I just don't want people who in the future have this problem to be missinformed. No hard feelings.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well have you done this test...

depress the clutch pedal, put it in 1st and start it, does the car jump forward?

this would tell you if the clutch was even dis-engaging. and clutch that doesnt dis-engage would definately make it hard to shift, if at all.

this tranny came from hmo?

you mentioned 1st and rev were hard, how about 2, 3, 4, 5?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The tranny is from HMO.

The tranny does not disengauge fully, thus making it hard to shift that much is true. It got harder and harder to put in every gear, but 1 was the hardest. I did your test last time you sugested it

P.s. I aready did pull the tranny, and replaced the pedal assembly. I didn't find anything wrong at all, that's why I'm so confused! So I put on a stock XSi B16 clutch and pressure plate, bolt up the tranny again, and same problem. The arm has WAY too much free play, and by the time I get the free play out the arm is at the top of it's engaugement point..

Crx Jimmy

Its probably because you have some act super heavy pressure plate and the fork the throwout bearing is on inside the bellhousing has bent. or someone put the bearing on backwards

mrtoastyjr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LankorDie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The arm has WAY too much free play, and by the time I get the free play out the arm is at the top of it's engaugement point..</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you check to make sure that the arm is not bent? hold it up to a known good arm

LankorDie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrtoastyjr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

did you check to make sure that the arm is not bent? hold it up to a known good arm</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have taken it out of the tranny and it looks fine. Nothing looks bent and if it was bent it would not hang at the right level when no pressure is on it.

Also when I took off the tranny the TOB and everything moves perfect, it moves as far as it should.

LankorDie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its probably because you have some act super heavy pressure plate and the fork the throwout bearing is on inside the bellhousing has bent. or someone put the bearing on backwards </TD></TR></TABLE>
The TOB is not in backwords, it's not crushed or worn at all. The fork would be very hard to bend, and it does not look bent at all. And like I said in the post above it moves the TOB as far as it should when the tranny is off the car.

trianglegreg

it actually might be the linkage when i first installed my b16 my links were just a tad twisted and i had the same promblem you did i had to keep tightening my clutch, then i took of the links and found out that they were twisted just by laying them down on a flat surface. so i got two big *** monkee wrenches clanped the linkage down and torqued it back installed it and now the clutch promblem went away. this is from my personal experience if i were you i would at least check it out if you cant find anything elese wrong

LankorDie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trianglegreg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it actually might be the linkage when i first installed my b16 my links were just a tad twisted and i had the same promblem you did i had to keep tightening my clutch, then i took of the links and found out that they were twisted just by laying them down on a flat surface. so i got two big *** monkee wrenches clanped the linkage down and torqued it back installed it and now the clutch promblem went away. this is from my personal experience if i were you i would at least check it out if you cant find anything elese wrong</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright man since I have them off the car I will check that out I also found some one who is going to loan me hasports, and I am calling hasport to see if the linkage works.

However I am 99% sure this problem has nothing to do with the linkage..

thenick

pm'ed

allhonda

hey i think your problem is between the TOB and the the spring. i say tob 'cause you said its hard to shift, i dont think is the PP 'cause you changed it twice already. when it comes to the spring threres a way to install the spring on the fork, i wish i had some pics to showed you, let see, when you install the spring on the TOB you have to make sure that the fork is pushing directly on the TOB and not on the the two little sections of the spring that hook to the TOB, its easy to make that mistake it happended to me before, the spring brakes of and the TOB starts failing. i hope this helps

LankorDie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey i think your problem is between the TOB and the the spring. i say tob 'cause you said its hard to shift, i dont think is the PP 'cause you changed it twice already. when it comes to the spring threres a way to install the spring on the fork, i wish i had some pics to showed you, let see, when you install the spring on the TOB you have to make sure that the fork is pushing directly on the TOB and not on the the two little sections of the spring that hook to the TOB, its easy to make that mistake it happended to me before, the spring brakes of and the TOB starts failing. i hope this helps</TD></TR></TABLE>
I took it all apart and made sure that the springs were behind the fork. In retrospect it was a HUGE pain in the *** with this particular transmission.

LankorDie

Bump before I leave work for the day! Please never call the New York Times you might end up talking to me

pgmatt

I am sadly having the same problem trying to get a heavy duty pressure plate with a unpsrung 6 puck to engage.I have had no luck either.I was going to throw the stock clutch in for now to break in the motor.

jayjay

clutch disk to pressure plate.... When you took it off did you see any strange wear lines on the outer edge? of the disk itself... I mean..

Got_soy

what fly wheel are yo uusing?