thekooler

have d15b2 with d16a6 head car runs cant seem to get timeing on. check and doulbe check tdc and cam marks dont know degree but the three marks are off to left of timeing mark by about half inch. the dizzy ist turned as far as itll go counter clockwise the dizzy is tdo2u and pr4 ecu

crxguy1991

Did you get an adjustable cam gear? If you didn't then you will be having a lot of problems like this one. And don't adjust your timing while the engine is running unless you want to blow your **** up.

DCRB

this thread is full of fail.

o/p to use the a6 head/cam on a b2 block you'll need either an adjustable cam gear, or a cheaper rout source a d16y5/7/8 cam gear, it'll degree the cam to where it needs to be so you can properly set the ignition timing.

crxguy, the only way to adjust ignition timing is with a timing light while the car is running, so not sure where you're getting your info since it is really hard to get the belt off then back on the cam while the motor is still running.

jlk16188

this^

Jhicks

AGREED!

thekooler

so its ok to the d16a6 head . the reason why im asking is cause all reseach ive done people talk about using a y7 head just want to make shur

thekooler

by the way thanks for replys

crxguy1991

Actually I was referring to the dizzy timing, not the timing of the gear and cam, I am not retarded as you seem to think I think you stick your hand down there to take the gear off while the engine is running and adjust accordingly. Last time I did that...oh yeah I haven't. No need to be a jerk dude. Especially when you didn't even know what I was speaking of.

And yes I know you CAN adjust dizzy timing running, but people slip, people make mistakes, and **** happens. It's better to advance and retard while the engine is off, then check to see if it is right.

DCRB

just sayin man. ive seen it happen haha.

jlk16188

the a6 head is the same head as your b2. The cam is the only difference. The reason you need a different cam gear is that the a6 cam is clocked slightly different than your b2 cam and the mechanical timing will not line up correctly; it will be 1/2 tooth off. The reason for this is the b2 deck height of the block is slightly smaller than the a6 height.

Hope that helps. Really, you can put a wide range of d series head on your block, a6, z6, y8, y7 etc..... but its all up to you. IMO there no real power gained by doing a mini me swap vs swapping in the complete d16z6 or whatever motor.

crx<3

would it be the same with a d16a6 head on a d15b block, if so could that through cel code 9?

91 hf crx
d16a6 head, ecu, dizzy
d15b block
obd0
wtf?

thekooler

90 hf crx
pr4 ecu
d16a6 head
b15b2 block

Ajustable cam gear on. all timing marks lined up #1 tdc. I adjusted gear to compensate for the dizzy so i can dial the dizzy in. then i dialed the timeing in with dizzy its all lined up BUUTTTTTT it startes hard like dead battery or timing is off. battery is good what i do wrong <@#$%#$$> OK DONT FEEL ANY BETTER ooops sorry for yelling just a little fustrated. By the thanks for all ur input

thekooler

no codes had codes but dizzy was wired wrong all codes are gone but one 13 atmespher or what ever code but that wont cause my problem

crx<3

It may be your problem, when your ecu is throughing codes it go's into a " limp home mode" meaning go home and fix the prob. I'd fix your code 13 and go from there.

crx<3

Help please!

jlk16188

id suggest a pm6 ecu, not the pm4. Did you advance or retard the cam gear to compensate for the a6 cam?

thekooler

well i adjusted the cam to the left witch is advanced right?

thekooler

im going to check tdc one more time . the pr4 i was told will work or pm6

thekooler

doulble checked tdc all good its in time but still starts hard turn over slow dose the valves need to be adjusted now or somthing if they do what would the specs be set at d15b2 head or what

thekooler

sorry dont mean to bump but bump but bump lol that dont sound right

thekooler

bump

crx<3

id check your PA sensor and wires, try to get rid of code 13. if your ecu is throwing codes your motor is not running right, this will make it hard to time/tune.
if your still having problems after fixing code 13, it will be easer to help you.

thekooler

well it has a wire tuck and the wires to the map sensor theres the three then their the two it missing the two. its the thing on firewall that got little black hoses to it i believe it the map sensor and somthing else the else is missing the wires green and black i believe . i forget what its called but it operates with baro sensor so thats my code 13. oh ya another question b10 and b12 on ecu the wires go to dizzy only or do those operate other things also

crx<3

Yes thats your map sensor. Im sorry that you have a molested wire harness, fix it. Try searching for wire diagrams and ecu pinouts.

All of your questions can be found in a honda manual, if you dont have one get one (free from piratebay).

Bently_Coop

sounds like you also need a purge valve, as far as map sensor i would use a obd1 throttle body with map and tps sensor